Comments on: The rules on seam allowances

By: celeste

celeste — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 20:34:03 +0000

I had forgotten I had read this – I suppose I should print it out, and post it next to my machine

By: Review: Leather Fashion Design

Review: Leather Fashion Design — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 23:35:30 +0000

[...] you should use 1/4″ on parts that are turned (pockets, collars) with which I concur. See The rules on seam allowances, also part [...]

By: Amanda deLeon

Amanda deLeon — Fri, 10 Jun 2011 15:04:45 +0000

Well Hell’s Bells! It’s true what they say about learning something new every day Ok, so I am, for the most part, self taught. And thanks to “commercial” patterns, I have spent my entire sewing life using 5/8″ seam allowance! Oh, it pains me to think of all the fabric I have waisted because of this….not to mention my uncontrollable swearing because thing weren’t assembling with ease. As soon as I read this entry, I ran and grabbed my gauge, shook my head and giggled a little. Now off to redraft every pattern I’ve ever made Thanks for the info, Kathleen. If I had the money, I would just pay you to come live with me and slap my hand with a ruler every time I use ridiculous practices. You like New Orleans, right!?

By: Tonia

Tonia — Sun, 09 May 2010 03:54:40 +0000

Kathleen – Thanks that helps a lot!

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Tue, 04 May 2010 13:34:08 +0000

Tonia
“Commercial” patterns is the colloquial term for home sewing patterns. As mentioned in this entry, the seam allowance on those is 5/8″ -everywhere. Seam allowances for industrial patterns are explained in this entry.

By: Tonia

Tonia — Mon, 03 May 2010 07:11:38 +0000

Thanks for all this info!
I am a ‘made to measure’ pattern- maker trained girl and am now doing commercial patterns for a friend.
Having never worked on commercial patterns I am still a little confused with standard allowances!
Is the 1/4″ seam allowance the standard for overlocked seams (stretch fabric) and 1/2″ the go for side seams etc?
Thanks lovely ladies Tonia

By: The rules on seam allowances pt.2

The rules on seam allowances pt.2 — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 21:55:05 +0000

[...] decided to write a follow up to my first entry because comments from two people who have every reason to expect they’d understand what I was [...]

By: Lisa Bloodgood

Lisa Bloodgood — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 01:27:16 +0000

The seam allowance is the 3/8″ then you cut off part of it as you serge. You just have to make sure that the needle farthest to the left goes in at the 3/8″.

By: Birgitte

Birgitte — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 06:19:28 +0000

Gigi – oh, how I agree! I just finished sewing a men’s shirt (commercial pattern – I’m not feeling skilled enough to draft my own, but at least now enough to alter the pattern to my liking, and to fit the bf better), and the 5/8″ were *everywhere*, and it makes no sense. To begin with, the 1/2″ we are being taught in fashion school to use, felt very wide, but really… the 5/8″ is so unneccessary.

Kathleen – thank you for this gold mine of a site. I’ve only started reading the articles in earnest this past week, and I’ve already learned lots, as well as now having an increased desire to learn all there is to pattern-making and the more technically sound sewing practices.

By: Gigi

Gigi — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 02:32:44 +0000

Thank you, Kathleen! You know, what drives me really crazy about commercial sewing patterns is that all of the seam allowances need to be adjusted. Seriously, 5/8″ on a collar stand? Really? And people wonder why they can’t sew it well. I have seen some vintage patterns that have varying seam allowances throughout. On my single-needle, I use 1/4″ everywhere except at the side seams (where I use 1″ for fitting purposes – the excess is trimmed off) and at the crotch (where I use 3/8″). It is amazing how much smaller seam allowances increase accuracy and greatly simplify construction.