Comments on: The perils of D.I.Y.

By: Dave

Dave — Sun, 18 Dec 2005 21:16:02 +0000

I like Vesta’s approach to contractors. Open communication is very neccessary between client and contractor for many reasons.This is definitely something that should be moved into the discussion forum, as it is very rarely explained correctly , by either the designer or the contractor. To do so would take up far too much space on this page. As a contractor/supplier
this is one area in which I feel needs to be addressed. If increased communication is possible between the two parties, things get done faster, cheaper, and more efficiently. Since we cut all fabric inhouse, we don’t have any communication problems that Vesta alludes to, although those that have their cutting done off premises can benefit if both sides are in touch. A skilled cutter can save you big $$$, and this can only occur if he talks to the client and patternmaker
and spots an improvement.(definitely discussion forum material)
Blame is something that makes factory life not pleasant.(to err is human, to blame someone else is more human) To understand blame in this industry, you have to understand how a factory works. When mistakes happen , we trace back the steps to where the problem occurred. Usually it is a result of information not being clearly, concisely, passed along to the appropriate people. Blame is most often pointed back to the client(or me). Production personel outside of the owners are petrified to have the blame shifted to them. I have stressed to everyone that mistakes happen. Let just get it corrected and make sure it doesn’t again. One the other side, design assistants and are also terrified if they make mistakes, and the finger pointing goes our way. And this is where open communication is key. It
takes a great deal of effort to build a relationship with a client, and vice versa. Far too many think it is easier to search for new contractors, rather than working out any glitches and going forward. Those that think that way should remember, that they could be the cause of of these little breakdowns.
Who wants to start this discussion ? Vesta, any thoughts ?

By: christy fisher

christy fisher — Sun, 18 Dec 2005 19:21:02 +0000

Please explain “traditional crafts” do you mean indigenous to another part of the world (as there are traditional crafts in America that are very possible to produce here)? I may take this to the discussion forum later.

By: Vesta

Vesta — Sun, 18 Dec 2005 14:32:37 +0000

We have 4 products that are made in the US (the other two are traditional crafts, and therefore inappropriate for US manufacture). I currently work with 3 different sewing contractors, mostly because our production needs outstripped our original contractor. I have also briefly worked with 2 others.

The difference between a contractor who will give you feedback on your patterns and ones who just make the product (albeit well) is like night and day. If you find a contractor who will talk to you about problems they’re having AND you respond appropriately – they’re like gold. The only place to go is up.

I also encourage my contractors and my cutter to communicate directly. They’ve been able to eliminate some notches, add others, and basically work together to make the sewing proceed more smoothly and make our products higher quality. The contractors were initially hesitant and a little apologetic about this direct communication, as if I might be offended, but it’s just the opposite. Of course I want to sign off on any changes, but they’re the ones most affected by these details and I think they should have quite a bit of input.

I’m not saying our setup is perfect. As I mentioned in another comment, we have some massive inefficiencies. But I guess what I’m saying is that fostering communication between all of the players, even when there are several different companies involved, goes a long way.

One more thing: I am by nature not a “blamer”. So I always approach things from a “how can we solve this and move on” perspective. But it takes people a LONG time to get comfortable with this strategy and to really internalize it. Seriously, it usually takes about 6 months of working together before people believe my sincerity in not wanting to place blame and they respond by being more open about offering problem-solving suggestions and such. During the first 6 months, it is almost always their reaction to be defensive and/or guarded about mistakes and problems. The only way to pull them out of it is to be very clear and consistent about not laying blame on any one person, and actively seeking their input.

By: Cinnamon

Cinnamon — Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:01:31 +0000

Since most of my pieces for bags have been straight lines I just cut them out with a rotary cutter and a ruler on a self-healing cutting mat. Thankfully most of my items are also small.

But now that I’m getting into some curved items I’m going to try the tailor chalk and then cutting method. Marking items on fabric seems like a huge hassle, but if it will keep me from having to remake paper patterns all the time I’ll give it a try.

I’d considered using plexiglass to cut out patterns, but I was intending to cut around them with a rotary cutter. Storage was my main concern since I don’t have a lot of room.

And your demonstration, many posts ago, about using paper jigs made me smack my forehead cause I feel like an idiot. I’ll be purchasing some stencil plastic for pocket placement marking and snap marking. Excellent, time-saving and worthwhile suggestions. Thank you for all of them.