Comments on: Tools and Supplies

By: Dream Sample Room

Dream Sample Room — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 19:32:29 +0000

[...] tools and supplies (rulers of varying [...]

By: sfriedberg

sfriedberg — Sun, 01 Feb 2009 13:46:44 +0000

Nina, search for “Fairgate kit”. Fairgate sells pattern making supplies to students and their fashion design kits are widely available.

By: Nina

Nina — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 23:48:41 +0000

Hi,

Does anyone know if there are pattern-making starter kits available? You know, that bring with them some of the tools you mentioned? I heard from someone they exist but have found no such thing while searching the net. Thanks so much for the help!

By: Mary

Mary — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 10:35:05 +0000

In engineering school, I was introduced to those erasers. We purchased the stick kind (http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/8578/Staedtler-Mars-White-Plastic-Stick-Eraser-and-Refills.htm) I never used this vendor but just wanted to link to an example of the eraser … I got addicted to the slimmer shape of the stick version and thought I’d share.

By: Dr Rekha Sharma

Dr Rekha Sharma — Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:24:24 +0000

I would like to know what material the head of the sewing hammer is made of: leather, metal, rubber or plastic

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Wed, 18 Apr 2007 18:22:12 +0000

Do you do initial drafts on the 1 by 5 paper or directly onto the 100lb
hard paper?…What is your recommended technique for accurately transfering a pattern
from 1 by 5 or hard paper to the 150lb final pattern?

Nearly always, I draft directly on hardboard altho I use 125lb paper. I didn’t know you could readily get 100 lb paper. Since I draft directly on the oak tag, transfering it onto 150lb paper is simply a matter of weighing the pieces and tracing them.

This is somewhat unrelated but I don’t trace all of the lines. If it’s a straight line, I usually mark off the start and end point of it. After removing the piece I’m tracing, I use a ruler and redraw those straight lines. The reason is that lines can degrade over time, either through bowing via tracing usage or miscuts. Redrawing all straight lines with a rule maintains the integrity of the piece. As a matter of fact, when setting up the pattern to be digitized, I usually make some sort of notation indicating the digitizer can skip any midpoints, going directly from point to point. This has two advantages. One, it saves them time and two, it maintains the accuracy of the line.

By: Danielle

Danielle — Wed, 18 Apr 2007 18:10:11 +0000

Paper questions:

Do you do initial drafts on the 1 by 5 paper or directly onto the 100lb hard paper?

What is your recommended technique for accurately transfering a pattern from 1 by 5 or hard paper to the 150lb final pattern?

Thanks!

By: teddybear

teddybear — Sat, 11 Nov 2006 23:06:47 +0000

It is not highly recommended that you “push” out points (such as on a collar) from the inside of the seam. It gives a much crisper point if you properly trim the seam allowance and very carefully “pick” out the point from the correct side of the garment with a pin. Sometimes when you push the point out, you can damage the fabric or poke a hole right through it.

By: Fashion-Incubator

Fashion-Incubator — Thu, 27 Oct 2005 19:35:17 +0000

Sewing hammer

Carol has found a source for sewing hammers at American Science & Surplus -one of my most favorite places to shop; I love this company. This hammer comes with 5 screw in tips; you’d use the plastic tip for sewing….

By: Fashion-Incubator

Fashion-Incubator — Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:36:11 +0000

Nameless #5 (back vent)

I decided to continue the nameless tutorial series (the inside facing, lining and shell juncture on the inside of suits) as it applies to the back vent of sport coats and suits because many people remained confused regarding the specific…