I know you have said that the only paper you use for patterns is oaktag. I was wondering, how do you walk a pattern with oaktag (assuming it has seam allowances added already)?
These days I’m more inclined to walk patterns with my CAD program since it is more accurate and faster but between oak tag and marker paper (or still flimsier paper), I much prefer walking oak tag patterns. A major reason being that oak tag doesn’t bend as easily so it is more accurate.
Probably the best way to show you is with this example of a short video clip of me walking a shoulder seam. This comes from a video that Mr. Fashion-Incubator and I shot about how to check a pattern in preparation for grading. The full length video is yet to be released (who knows when that will happen) but it will illustrate one aspect of pattern walking. Forty seconds into the video it zooms in so you can see very clearly what I’m doing.
Another useful thing to know is how to pivot the pattern pieces while walking them. Once I find a clip of that I will upload it and include the link.
If you’re not sure what pattern walking means, it is a check that is done prior to pattern grading before the style can be put into production. This is the sort of thing that sewing contractors will expect in the way of production sewing accuracy from people starting a clothing line. Keeping with the theme, you need to know that contractors can’t work with soft or tissue patterns unless the soft patterns are a plot from a CAD file.
Often described as the garment industry “blue book”, the most highly rated book in the business is guaranteed to get you off to a solid start or your money back. Many service providers require you read this before they’ll work with you. Learn more »