Comments on: Vintage pattern post #5 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage_pattern_post_5/ How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Sat, 11 Feb 2012 22:49:13 -0800 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: Kathleen http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage_pattern_post_5/comment-page-1/#comment-100 Kathleen Mon, 28 Nov 2005 19:42:44 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/04/vintage_pattern_post_5/#comment-100 I know what you mean Ken, totally but I'm so entranced with the beauty of bias that I won't give up so easily. I'd rather give it one more go because I think I can make it work with the right kind of stabilizer. I've done enough work with bias to know that if I can keep it on bias, the dress will fit a wider range of body types than it would fit if cut on grain. I did recut this pattern and still haven't tested the new version but I guess the jury will still be out on that until then. My shop is a total mess from the move :( I know what you mean Ken, totally but I’m so entranced with the beauty of bias that I won’t give up so easily. I’d rather give it one more go because I think I can make it work with the right kind of stabilizer. I’ve done enough work with bias to know that if I can keep it on bias, the dress will fit a wider range of body types than it would fit if cut on grain. I did recut this pattern and still haven’t tested the new version but I guess the jury will still be out on that until then. My shop is a total mess from the move :(

]]> By: KESimmons http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage_pattern_post_5/comment-page-1/#comment-99 KESimmons Sun, 27 Nov 2005 11:59:55 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/04/vintage_pattern_post_5/#comment-99 Dear Kathleen, I have read your postings on the vintage pattern and think I know why you are dissatisfied with the limpness of the flange. By basing your pattern on the Vionnet dress you have changed the basic grain of the entire bodice section. If the CF of the pattern were left on straight of grain the flange would also remain on the straight while all the gathering would then be cut with a bias edge. The gathering would then be soft and rounded while the flange would retain a certain stability. Check your Hillhouse and Mansfield and I think you will see what I mean. Of course the post I to which I refer is months old and all this may be long resolved. Dear Kathleen,

I have read your postings on the vintage pattern and think I know why you are dissatisfied with the limpness of the flange. By basing your pattern on the Vionnet dress you have changed the basic grain of the entire bodice section. If the CF of the pattern were left on straight of grain the flange would also remain on the straight while all the gathering would then be cut with a bias edge. The gathering would then be soft and rounded while the flange would retain a certain stability. Check your Hillhouse and Mansfield and I think you will see what I mean. Of course the post I to which I refer is months old and all this may be long resolved.

]]> By: Alissa http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage_pattern_post_5/comment-page-1/#comment-98 Alissa Mon, 13 Jun 2005 05:11:48 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/04/vintage_pattern_post_5/#comment-98 I wouldn't have the least idea about how to approach your contest, but I do have a copy of the Kirke book. (I bought an advance copy when the first notice appeared in Threads that it was going to be published--I called Betty Kirke and asked her how I could arrange to buy one, since it was being published in Japan...) At any rate, one of the features that I particularly liked about your original drawing doesn't appear to have been translated to your draft. The high back neck, coming down to a folded draped line on the side opposite the "flange." Between the effect of the high neck down into the flange and the fold in the drape on the other side you end up w/ a squarish neckline that is very attractive. (If you look at the "negative shape" of the neck in the drawing, you'll see sort of a child's base-of-a-tree shape.) Your current neckline is much more open in the front and the back looks like it must be much lower than the drawing appears to be. Was this the effect you intended? The negative space ends up being a very different shape... Just curious. I'm enjoying following your progress. And very much enjoyed seeing your previous Vionnet-inspired dress, which appears to fit you beautifully. I wouldn’t have the least idea about how to approach your contest, but I do have a copy of the Kirke book. (I bought an advance copy when the first notice appeared in Threads that it was going to be published–I called Betty Kirke and asked her how I could arrange to buy one, since it was being published in Japan…) At any rate, one of the features that I particularly liked about your original drawing doesn’t appear to have been translated to your draft. The high back neck, coming down to a folded draped line on the side opposite the “flange.” Between the effect of the high neck down into the flange and the fold in the drape on the other side you end up w/ a squarish neckline that is very attractive. (If you look at the “negative shape” of the neck in the drawing, you’ll see sort of a child’s base-of-a-tree shape.) Your current neckline is much more open in the front and the back looks like it must be much lower than the drawing appears to be. Was this the effect you intended? The negative space ends up being a very different shape…

Just curious. I’m enjoying following your progress. And very much enjoyed seeing your previous Vionnet-inspired dress, which appears to fit you beautifully.

]]> By: kathleen http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage_pattern_post_5/comment-page-1/#comment-97 kathleen Sat, 07 May 2005 00:27:25 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2005/04/vintage_pattern_post_5/#comment-97 <b>This is a compilation and crude importation of all the comments posted at the original site for this document</b>. Feel free to add your comments ----------------------- 4/12/2005 09:51:35 PM <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/102752" rel="nofollow">Jess said:</a> This looks really good. Will you put sleeves on it? I don't think it needs them actually, it's very deconstructed looking and it's very NOW without them. I started on it and just drawing the basic bodice was a challenge. That's how much of a beginner I am, ugh. There's two new posts in my blog that you'll probably get a kick out of and like to rip to shreds. livejournal.com/community/clothes_for_men/ but I think my seam allowance entry is kind of clever or maybe it's not a new idea? 4/12/2005 10:02:17 PM <a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/3518162" rel="nofollow">Kathleen said:</a> hi Jess I guess I won't put sleeves in this for now anyway. Summer's coming and one of my best features is my arms so this would play that up. I appreciate your comments. You really think it's "now" when it's so old? Heaven forbid I actually end up fashionable; it'd ruin my reputation ;-) I'll look at your posts tomorrow. I don't mind blogging you. Fun fun, no? This is a compilation and crude importation of all the comments posted at the original site for this document. Feel free to add your comments
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4/12/2005 09:51:35 PM Jess said:
This looks really good. Will you put sleeves on it? I don’t think it needs them actually, it’s very deconstructed looking and it’s very NOW without them.
I started on it and just drawing the basic bodice was a challenge. That’s how much of a beginner I am, ugh.
There’s two new posts in my blog that you’ll probably get a kick out of and like to rip to shreds.
livejournal.com/community/clothes_for_men/
but I think my seam allowance entry is kind of clever or maybe it’s not a new idea?

4/12/2005 10:02:17 PM Kathleen said:
hi Jess
I guess I won’t put sleeves in this for now anyway. Summer’s coming and one of my best features is my arms so this would play that up. I appreciate your comments. You really think it’s “now” when it’s so old? Heaven forbid I actually end up fashionable; it’d ruin my reputation ;-)

I’ll look at your posts tomorrow. I don’t mind blogging you. Fun fun, no?

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