Generally, most of your questions would be answered in the course of reading all of the entries in this series as were listed at the close of the article. Some of those links may not work, I’m slowly editing the correct links but you can find the complete list with good links by going to “Tutorials” from the top of the page and looking under that section.

I wrote this entry very early on, in 2005. In those days, based on my limited experience (and in those days it was mostly professionals visiting) I just assumed that everyone would know to use pattern paper to make patterns. I didn’t realize I needed to mention the paper needed specifically because I showed a picture of it (pattern paper). It is difficult for me to write material that is specific to the gamut of possible experience and skill level of site visitors. Other entries in the series mention you should use a manila folder if you do not have pattern paper. This entry on tools and supplies may be helpful. I have recently rewritten the entry to make some points clearer.

The one question about how to attach the pocket pieces inside… I’m fairly certain this is one of the other entries. If not included in this particular one, this is my failing because my thinking was that anyone who is motivated to make a welt pocket is at the level where they see once getting to that stage, that the solution is self explanatory.

The book I wrote is on every single page of this site off to the top right. You can also find it by clicking “products and services” at the top of the page.

There’s a button to click to buy the book near the top right of the page. (Below the scissors in the banner; below the little ad; below “Archives”; below “Categories”… aha! There it is!)

It’s a great book, but it isn’t primarily a sewing book. It’s mostly for entrepreneurs – which is you! – though I’m not an entrepreneur and I bought it anyway. When you buy it, access to the Forum comes with it. Very, very worth it.

The above comment mentions there is a book you wrote, can I purchase a copy, how much and is it mentioned online anywhere?

Thank you so much.

p.s. so excited – can’t wait to get my book in the mail! I made a purchase recommendation at my university library too

On “bend allowance”:
I DID larn about this from some book or the other, except it was called “turn of cloth.” I make sense of it this way (warning: my grasp of geometry is very strong, so this might not make sense to non-math types):

Think of the top and bottom surfaces of fabric as parallel straight lines. When you fold over any fabric, but especially a thick one, you are making it into two concentric half-circles. the radius of the inner bend is less than the radius of the outer bend. So, depending on what it more important to you, the inner dimension or the outer dimension, you have to add or subtract some “bend allowance” to account for it.

The inner jig is made smaller to account for the smaller inner radius, the outer jig is sized for the outer radius.

My question to Kathleen:
Doesn’t the finished folded piece need to fit inside a 1″ window? So why isn’t the inner jig ~7/8″ wide so that the final folded piece will be 1″ instead of ~1 1/8′ the way it turns out with the jigs as you do them??

random, but slightly related rant:
For those of you who have ever worked in a fabric store ( I did)–remember how hard it was to put that damn polar fleece (or subtitute another really fat fabric) stuff on a bolt without the ends becoming totally offset and the fabric becoming skewed? Well, that’s because we foolishly fold the fabric in half first–one half of the fabric needs a much larger radius to go around the bolt, but it’s attached to the other, inner half of the fabric. This sucks for the fabric buyer, because after a while, the fabric gets distorted to compenstae for this discomfort and it’s really hard to get the fabric grained up again. Another reason why buying fabric wholesale is nicer–they keep it on the tubes. (not that it’s always on grain off the tube, either…)

Yes, fabric adds thickness; that’s what the “bend allowance” thing was all about. The inner jig shouldn’t be changed unless you’re changing the width of the opening or the width of the lips.

For instance I did my welt in a denim and it was fairly thick wouldn’t that add even more thickness?

The alteration has to be done to the outer jig. I’m thinking of showing a jig for a 6oz leather for comparison purposes.

The second problem I had was cutting out the corners I messed them up and went too far.

Did you fuse the pocket area first?

Here’s a picture of my first welt, a little (maybe a lot) botched up, hehe.
http://reflectdesign.com/tempo/welt_stuff.jpg

I think your pocket looks pretty good! And especially for a first attempt. Weren’t you happy with it? It certainly looks better than my first attempt .

There’s also a pic of another welt that I was trying to think how it could be done. The pocket is sewed once and then turned out and sewn again. Could that be possible with this method?

I don’t see why not. There’s endless variety to using this process. One could also use it for bound buttonholes. The applique scissors are great.