Comments on: Why pattern makers don’t want to grade patterns

By: How to check the accuracy of graded patterns

How to check the accuracy of graded patterns — Sat, 23 Jun 2012 16:00:58 +0000

[...] not responsible for checking it unless you pay for it. Which is why a lot of pattern people don’t want to grade patterns they didn’t make because patterns must be checked for accuracy (see how to do it yourself) before grading to prevent [...]

By: Santosh

Santosh — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 06:35:52 +0000

We grade patterns even if the pattern was made by someone else. As long as we have detailed tech pack measurements with sketches or a sample , grading can be easily achieved.

Most of our clients from USA send us either tech packs or a garment for which we make a pattern and then grade it. We later email the graded patterns back to them. They can either print it out at a print bureau close to them or we can courier the printed or cut patterns to their office.

By: Kristine Gloviak

Kristine Gloviak — Sat, 09 Apr 2011 22:47:04 +0000

Grading is a snap now for Pattern makers with the Arrow Grading function in PAD Software.
It acts like an automatic Dario machine. You don’t have to deal with Grade points, X-Y Axis, decimals. It works with Directional arrows, fractions of an inch. The Pattern makers love it and they can make more money providing grading without pulling their hair out with Point-by-Point grading, X-Y axis movements and decimal measuring.

By: Rocio

Rocio — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:07:36 +0000

Our small Ioline plotter has the capability to plot on oaktag, but it’s a slow process (slower than plotting on paper) and the pieces still need to be cut out.

95% of our accounts are remote, so they either prefer CAD files or paper.

By: Kathleen

Kathleen — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:34:32 +0000

Re: plotting on oaktag. I don’t believe one can use a standard plotter to do it -the paper is too heavy to travel the feed path. I suppose one could try it out… not me tho… I’m having a love-hate relationship with my plotter as it is (and it’s all my fault, I’m the one causing the problems in this relationship). The better option is to plot to cut. There are machines that do that. I’d heard those were pricey (25K) but recently, someone mentioned a machine as only being 6K. “Only” being comparative obviously.

There is a benefit to having oaktag patterns even if the work is done digitally. I think it is really the only way to go for a small company that is growing by in-house sewing (which I think offers tremendous competitive advantages once you nail it down).

If my pattern was drafted for a given size, and it fits the fit model correctly, is it possible to create grade rules based solely on the form specifications?

I doubt it altho those measures could be a useful guideline. Your rules will vary from the strict measures of the form based on material behavior, silhouette etc.

By: Seth Meyerink-Griffin

Seth Meyerink-Griffin — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 12:54:26 +0000

Crap. Forgot to check the ‘notify me’ box…

By: Seth Meyerink-Griffin

Seth Meyerink-Griffin — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 12:54:01 +0000

Hmmm. This raises a few questions.
As far as computer grading with hard pattern output, I understand that most services will print a nested pattern so that the grade can be checked; can the plotters/printers that they use for the nested pattern be printed on oaktag (at additional cost for both materials and shipping) so I could cut the graded patterns myself? This assumes that I believe there’s a benefit to having an oaktag pattern when the work was done digitally, which is probably crazy-talk.

As far as grade rules go, I’m currently using Alva standard series forms. Alva is pretty good about sizing specs for their forms. If my pattern was drafted for a given size, and it fits the fit model correctly, is it possible to create grade rules based solely on the form specifications?

By: martin taylor

martin taylor — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 10:33:09 +0000

I rather enjoy grading, by hand or computer. As said above, a pattern would have the kinks worked out before grading (or there is little point to grading it). If a pattern is made from an existing pattern (in a computer) then the grade is carried over (but should be checked).
If I am sent a pattern (one I didn’t make) – sometimes I am asked to check it out, but more often I am told to leave it alone and just grade it- so I assume all is well. There have been cases in which all wasn’t well and eventually the sewing floor will come to me with the problem(s). I do take full ownership of my work… and it bugs me when issues arose from the outside pattern on our sewing floors.
I report the situation and usually seek permission to correct the pattern (and usually, I am granted that permission.
I may have gotten off subject * gulp *
I enjoy grading patterns. And making them. And developing (experimenting with) prototypes (design).

By: anne

anne — Sat, 12 Feb 2011 21:17:45 +0000

I’m a patternmaker and designer…I don’t like to grade because if I do grade it is by hand, no Dario, no computer . It is not a good use of my time and expertise. I send my grader a pattern that has been checked and doubled checked by myself and the sample hand. Also, I am sort of old school. I worked in the industry when the sample hand and the grader tracked your work and double checked its accuracy. I think it’s always beneficial to have checks and balances…just like the government.

By: Rocio

Rocio — Sat, 12 Feb 2011 18:15:30 +0000

What an eloquent way to summarise all the reasons why we don’t usually don’t take work from 3rd parties whose standards we don’t know…

We always turn away people who find out that we specialise in FULL PACKAGE but only want us to make samples and CMT using patterns or markers from dubious origins…

Most of the potential production issues are worked out at the first pattern stage (BEFORE the prototype is even cut) so if we haven’t been involved at that CRUCIAL stage, we simply don’t have enough information to commit to deliveries
The only way we can turn around samples in 2-4 days and CMT in as little as 2 weeks is that we have FULL CONTROL…. Otherwise we would be spending most of our time backtracking issues and NOBODY WANTS TO PAY FOR THAT :-(