Comments on: Deconstructing a zippered pouch

By: robbie

robbie — Wed, 22 Oct 2008 16:36:02 +0000

who doesn’t like great, direct and point specific advice on how to reconstruct an item even better than before. can’t wait to try it out for myself. thanks, rob

By: Michael M.

Michael M. — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:48:41 +0000

More, More, More, More!!!!!

Thank you, very, very much.

By: Marie-Christine

Marie-Christine — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 20:09:14 +0000

Oh, thank you, it makes so much sense to relieve stress at the ends of the zipper by not having those end at precisely an angle of the pouch. Definitely also good advice to observe the wear pattern in order to design around it for the next revs..

By: Lisa B. in Portland

Lisa B. in Portland — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 04:54:59 +0000

Very cool, Stu!

I made a zippered handbag for myself and some handbags with 1 zippered pocket, but all the other handbags and tote bags I’ve made don’t have zippers.

I don’t ever seem to be that excited about putting in zippers. Maybe I need someone to hold my hand during the process and tell me it’ll be ok. Heh heh.

By: Zaz

Zaz — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 15:29:56 +0000

actually yours do look nice, it’s that offwhite fabric and the custom made sizes that take us away from the old “uggly” original.

By: Shermane Fouche

Shermane Fouche — Thu, 09 Oct 2008 11:37:02 +0000

Thank you, great article and great design for the pouches, cable holders. I travel alot and need to be able to have things organized rather than to just pitchfork my stuff into the suitcase.

By: Stuart Friedberg

Stuart Friedberg — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 18:13:24 +0000

Valerie — Yes, the cable pouches were whipped up in an evening to fit the contents. We made the cardboard spools (which owe more to tinsmithing than sewn products) at the same time. The trickiest bit, and the part I would tweak if they were going into production, is getting the seamlines on the pattern pieces meeting at all-the-way-around seams exactly the same length as sewn. These quick and dirty pouches came out pretty close, but I had to do a little bit of cheating (easing, actually) to close the seams and that should be fixed in the pattern.

Vesta — A good question for which I have only a partial answer. Kathleen can probably tell us lots about glueing leather. Glue is usually inappropriate for pervious materials like cloth, so you would find it used on things like leather or plastic or plastic-coated materials. On the other hand, it’s not unusual to find strips of fusible web being used to baste or hem, even on very fabrics.

Glueing the seams (in the seam allowance only) is good for at least two things: basting and sealing. In part 2, when I put this pouch back together again, I will be using rubber cement for both reasons. Contact cement or some other permanent adhesive can also be used to “finish” seams by glueing the seam allowance to the wrong side of the shell, and in some cases (lap seams) could even be the primary means of creating the seam.

By: Dennis

Dennis — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:44:46 +0000

This reminds me of a time at sewing class when some male classmate showed up with a deconstructed Beanie Baby. The pieces consisted of small white plastic beads and fabric printed on one side with the other being white. The SAs were 1/8″. Would be curious as to type of machine used. Don’t know if he ever reconstructed it back the way it was.

By: Vesta

Vesta — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:15:44 +0000

Thanks so much, Stuart. I love this! One question: when/why does one glue seams before sewing? Does it have something to do with thick materials, like leather?

By: kay

kay — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 16:26:58 +0000

Stuart, thank you — the diagrams at the end are wonderful. I’ve got a beginning home sewer who is having trouble with standard home pattern instructions, but I think he’ll comprehend your diagrams instantly! Genius!