Blog
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 16, 2010 at 3:45 pm
I thought this would be an open and shut case, silly me. It wasn’t a trick question but we did get off track a bit (that’s not a complaint). The proposition was simple -how to shorten a dart- but we stepped off into whether it should be shortened, other associated fit problems etc., all topics worthy of exploring. I propose we analyze comments in two parts -as best as we are able. First up, how to shorten a dart. Second part, alternative proposals and all the other fun what-ifs we love to debate. Game?
Part one: original context of how to shorten a dart.
If we were giving out prizes -in this admittedly narrow context- those would go to CLF, Lauren, D Scheidt, dosfashionistas, Anne, Lisa, Donna, Paula (who said she agreed with Mimi but whose illustration was like the above) and Yvonne. Bonus points to everybody who mentioned you needed to prove the altered dart by truing it to the waistline seam. Don’t do that and I’ll skin you alive. That doesn’t mean everybody else is wrong but I’ll get to that.
The only difference between what everyone else said and the way I do it is that I prefer to work from nett. Before shortening the dart, I’d draw in the finished sewn dimensions of the dart (which finishes 1/2″ beyond the punch end), from there draw a vertical line midway between the two legs, shorten it the proscribed amount and then come back another half inch for the punch hole dart end. Is my way better? Doubtful. It’s life long habit.
Continue reading "Pop Quiz: How to shorten a dart? pt.2" »
3 comments /
Patterns, Pop Quiz /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 15, 2010 at 9:58 am
I didn’t know that how to shorten a dart was a subject of confusion but apparently it is. Two competing methods were published in two different editions of the same pattern making book (the book won’t be named) and the crazy thing is, the version I thought was correct was deleted and replaced with what I felt was an incorrect method in the newest edition. Maybe I was brainwashed with the earlier method? Regardless, I’m interested in what you have to say. Not that I think it’s appropriate that we decide which method is correct based on a show of hands so arguments supporting your case will be important.
Using the example of the sketch at right -this larger version will open in a new window for printing- please illustrate how you’d shorten this dart. Alternatively, you could explain it or even, ask related questions. If you prefer, you can also use a sketch of your own making. You can post a link to your version in comments or you can email it to me. Thanks everybody!
Continue reading "Pop Quiz: How to shorten a dart?" »
19 comments /
Patterns, Pop Quiz /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 12, 2010 at 4:05 pm
There is an event of interest on the west coast next week. On Monday the 15th, the Los Angeles International Textile Show starts and runs through Wednesday the 17th. There’s about 200 vendors, focus of the show are fabrics and various sundries suitable for Spring & Summer 2011. More info.
The week following on the 25th from 2-7 PM, Style Careers is having a job fair at the Copper Design Space. Pre-registration is recommended because everyone is screened before they let you in the door. You need a two or four year design degree or commensurate experience. SC mentions that store-level retail and internships don’t qualify as experience. A $10 fee is required to get in, cash only. Break a leg.
And now, here’s this week’s archives entry. May your weekend be fun and relaxing.
March 5, through March 11, 2005
TV, blogs, girlie-girls & call of the mall
March 5, through March 11, 2006
Reverse engineering standard work pt.7
They can’t make what I designed
Is the customer always right?
How to order labels pt.1
Problems with small sewing contractors
Retail-sucks
Reverse engineering standard work pt.8
March 5, through March 11, 2007
Recent media hodge podge
Fix this: mitten contest pt 5
Fix this: mitten contest pt 6
International Women’s Day
Proverbs for entrepreneurs
How to Get Answers to Your Questions
March 5, through March 11, 2008
Teaching an old dog new tricks
Style File!
A three minute post
New: Knit wear pattern making book
March 5, through March 11, 2009
Why retailers become manufacturers
How to import fabric without a broker
Trip report -Discovery Trekking
Continue reading "Archives 3/5- 3/11 2005-2009" »
1 comment /
Admin /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 11, 2010 at 2:13 pm
There’s been a dramatic increase in the number of people who would like to hire a full package sewing contractor to provide a broader gamut of services than is traditional. There are good reasons for wanting full package but it will be helpful to know why it may not be for everyone. If it is to your benefit, guidelines can help you define your needs and search more effectively. If not, you’ll spend less time questing for the Holy Grail, figuring out other ways to get it done. Before I get into what the guidelines may be (pt.2), we should mention definitions which can conflict with expectations.
The definition of what full package service means has evolved. Depending on where you operate your business, full package can mean different things. In NY, the traditional definition of full package referred to a contractor who could cut, sew and trim from the same space. Owing to the cost of real estate, this sort of operation wasn’t very common. It was common to make patterns and samples in one place, cut in another and sew in still another. One needed to schlep stuff from one contractor to another but it generally worked out okay since these businesses were relatively close to each other, the occasional exception being cutting due to the increased need of square footage.
Industry culture also played a role in how contractors were set up as enterprises moved from the first tier city (there used to be just one -NY) to the hinterlands of Dallas, Atlanta or Los Angeles. In spite of having lower real estate costs with the possibility of including cutting, some businesses didn’t do that because they didn’t know how, weren’t interested or they didn’t need to because they were dealing with other NY refugees who were accustomed to doing business the old way. The innovation in the south and west arose slowly from those who realized they could put everything together under one roof. As this model became more common, it evolved to become a pervasive expectation what we now call CM&T. However, we are faced with continuing evolution of the definition of full package. Among today’s designers, the definition of a full package contractor is fluid. Full package is ambiguous and usually self-defined based on one’s particular needs. At close, it will be helpful if you can define what full package means to you.
Continue reading "Hiring a full package sewing contractor pt.1" »
10 comments /
Contractors /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 10, 2010 at 11:57 am
Three strikes, you’re out! Yes? No?
Apparently not.
The Boston Globe reports that NY Senator Charles Schumer is preparing to reintroduce the Design Piracy Prohibition Act for the fourth time. His latest effort has been buoyed by Jeannie Suk, feminist cum fashionista at Harvard Law School who recently authored a paper entitled Law, Culture and the Economics of Fashion. From the Boston Globe:
Suk says she found it strange that there were laws in place protecting artists and writers, but not fashion designers. She was also concerned that this anomaly could deter people from going into fashion design.
Other than that there are existing laws and regulations to protect designers that aren’t being enforced, I’ll grant she knows more about law than I do but then I know more about apparel than she does. If the DPPA passes, our problem won’t be limited to deterring people from coming into the industry, it’ll be keeping the ones we already have alive. Under DPPA, every DE will have to spend incalculable thousands of dollars on legal fees to prove originality of their concepts or they’re not going to find a contractor who will sew it up for them. They won’t be able to find retail buyers either. Without indemnity, who wants to get sued and go to prison?
Continue reading "IP Update: DPPA & Fashion Law Blog" »
18 comments /
Intellectual Property /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 8, 2010 at 12:54 pm
I don’t remember how I discovered Russian designer Tasha Strogaya but she does some interesting pieces. I’m intrigued by Russian designers, particularly their use of style lines. Illustrated at right is an example of Tasha’s work featuring the style line seams (buy it here). A slightly larger version of this illustration is here.
I’m not wild on the fit of this style. Oh that’s not right. What I mean to say is that these style lines are placed in such a way that darts are not necessary to draw it in for a closer fitting silhouette -which is what I think this style should be -but then I’m not the designer. Maybe I’m drawn to it because these are the sort of style lines I like; namely, those that eliminate the need of darts in their entirety. It’s no trick to take a flat shapeless garment sans fitting darts and break it up into sections to sew back together. All said and done, this style is likely designed for a different figure type than this mannequin represents. I still think it’s a nice piece.
Continue reading "Pattern puzzle: Tasha Stogaya" »
6 comments /
Pattern Puzzle /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 5, 2010 at 6:51 pm
Airing out the winter bedding today, I found the first volunteer in the flower bed. It’s a tiny one, the photo doesn’t provide scale. Rumor has it these are coming up in many parts of the country. Daffodils are a cheery, optimistic flower that tells us of spring to come. Much nicer than a ground hog. Not that I’ve seen a ground hog in anything less than a… disordered state. Shop cat used to summarily dispatch those.
As ever, here’s the selection from the archives for this week in blog history -which includes the tail end of the MAGIC trade show reports. Have a productive and relaxing week end.
February 26, through March 4, 2005
The zen of the survival of the prettiest
Tailoring and The English Cut
Oh joy
Product Review Style# 12658
Intolerable ugliness or the shape of things to come?
February 26, through March 4, 2006
A Sunday in Las Cruces
Pimp my style
The Fashion Piracy Paradox pt.2
Home-sewing manufacturers
Designer’s website design
Domestic manufacturing is up
Home-sewing manufacturers pt 2
Reverse engineering standard work pt.6
Lies and body weight
Good Logo Design
On drafting and European Cut
February 26, through March 4, 2007
Why pattern makers resist learning CAD
Do you have patterns for sale?
Fit Couture in Apparel Magazine
Notes Eco Trade Show
MAGIC Show: Publications
Partnerships
Recycled materials
February 26, through March 4, 2008
Insurance coverage for designers
Sales Rep Horror Story
5 reasons patents are worthless and more
Showing a line at MAGIC: Rene Geneva
Trudy’s adventures in Las Vegas pt.1
Trudy’s adventures in Las Vegas pt.2
Trudy’s adventures in Las Vegas pt.3
News from you 3/1/08
Pattern puzzle: Hussein Chalayan
Spanish sizing study
Mistakes designers make pt.87
February 26, through March 4, 2009
How to transition from Etsy into wholesale pt.1
How to sew V necklines with facings
Funny Monday: Its not just me
Pop Quiz #482 pt.1
Pop Quiz #482 pt.2
Kids as designers
Continue reading "Archives 2/26- 3/4 2005-2009" »
2 comments /
Admin /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 4, 2010 at 5:22 pm
Follows is a guest entry from Sally Beers, a pattern maker with over 30 years experience. Born and raised in New York, she worked in the fast paced city for 25 years before moving to New Mexico five years ago. Available to assist you with your projects, her contact information appears at close.
21 mistakes fashion designers can make
Product Development
1. Not narrowing your focus. It’s best to specialize. Decide on one type of garment to sell and limit the number of styles, colors and sizes whenever possible. I know that was my biggest mistake. Forego that vision of competing with Jean Paul Gaultier or Zara.
2. Not understanding the time it takes to develop a new product. If you are planning to launch in Feb 2011 give yourself 2 yrs. If it happens before then, great, but when manufacturing is involved, you need to build relationships with your suppliers and contractors. You will need many moons to prove yourself to them and them to you.
3. Trying to take on difficult markets like labor intensive lingerie. Bras and shape wear can be very hard to produce. With very few factories in this country a designer is looking at large quantities and faraway factories.
4. Not looking closely at the current market.
5. Not establishing good fit from the very beginning.
Sales
6. When you are ready to sell, don’t make the mistake of failing to diversify your sales. Look for many stores in good standing as opposed to a few hot spots.
7. Not learning about marketing your product. Find a good marketer or sales rep and explain your product and sales vision then listen and decide. Diane Von Furstenberg represented her line successfully in the beginning. Anna Sui did very well for years with a sales rep until she went out on her own. Know your marketing capabilities or find an expert.
Management
8. Not understanding how much money it takes to develop a new product. Normally at the start you won’t be ready to meet fabric and factory minimums which means you will be working with lower minimums to test your market and gain market share. It can take years to pay off your investment. I had a client who purportedly made a lot of money from a automotive software biz and decided to take the plunge and produce swimwear. He opted to produce 10K suits right out of the gate (against my advice) and after one year, he’d only sold 27 suits. No doubt he will have to dump them since they were fashion not commodity apparel.
9. Not delegating. After you have gained as many skills as possible you must know how to delegate. Find the very best people to work with, let go and allow the experts on your team work to their potential.
10. Not writing a business plan. You need to do it and update is as you go.
11. Not being open to making strong partnerships.
Personal Development
12. Not learning the hands on skills of draping or pattern making enough to trust others with those tasks. It’s extremely helpful if you can do the initial draping and/or pattern making yourself so that the design reflects your vision. Learn from Isabel Toledo.
13. Not developing your skills. Learn from the market place and improve it.
14. Not having mentors. Don’t get so attached to the product that you can’t improve it or get advice from professionals.
15. Not being cordial and not being able to compliment a job well done by your suppliers.
16. Not thinking out of the box.
17. Not setting up a space where you can be creative and try to make the 1st samples.
18. Not Networking
19. Not considering ideas from others
20. Not laughing. Losing your sense of humor can be disastrous.
21. Not imagining your success. Stay fresh in your ideas and be determined to be successful. You can do it.
Sally Beers
Pattern Design
505.232.0745
4237 Courtney Avenue NE
Albuquerque, NM 87108
Continue reading "21 mistakes fashion designers can make" »
15 comments /
Newbies, Operations /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 4, 2010 at 2:40 pm
Two anonymous parties with opposing views on the definition of gussets are collaborating on a project that I will publish as soon as it’s ready. While not yet published publicly, the opinions of each are already stated (in the forum) so I thought it might be fun to read how you would define a gusset while we’re waiting. Even though your comments aren’t likely to change the opinions of said parties, input would be very useful in guiding the project authors to cover contingencies, eliminate ambiguities and answer any questions.
Are you game? Okay, so what is a gusset?
Continue reading "What is a gusset?" »
12 comments /
Glossary /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
By Kathleen Fasanella on Mar 3, 2010 at 10:21 am
Via Evolving Excellence, I found a new-to-me site called Product Design & Development which I thought was pretty interesting. EE mentioned a recent post there, Re-Shoring – Bringing Manufacturing Back To American Suppliers which I liked. While I try to remain vigilant and wary of the echo chamber, the entry was a good briefing on a variety of larger enterprises which have repatriated their production to the U.S.. I can’t predict how the material will play to this (or any) audience. Either you agree outsourcing is undesirable and high-five your like minded kindred or you’ve decided the payoff is worth the risks. I imply no judgments either way.
Other entries on the site were interesting (I did say this was circuitous) such as the one about Apple’s efforts to police their overseas contractors. Again, one could high-five Apple, great guys they are or you can take it the other way, that great guys would have been more vigilant to prevent employee suicide. There’s a link in the post to Apple’s supplier responsibility progress report for 2010 (pdf), a white paper prettied up that explains their overseas manufacturing auditing process. This document is very good; it’s clean, readable and provides a lot of plain language guidance anyone could use to set inspection standards for any contractor they use, be they foreign or domestic. I hope you read it. That the paper was disseminated widely to the public is shrewd strategy if the transparency bolsters Apple’s credibility with consumers. And I think it will, admittedly perhaps self-servingly because I know I don’t want to feel guilty over having purchased my iPhone. The point is, look over the guide, the audit description starts on page 13 and consider using some of those guidelines yourself. Likewise, make the results of your process transparent to consumers via download on your websites.
Another link on the PD&D website led me to a conference sponsored by the NTMA (National Tooling & Machining Assoc). The Irvine CA event is a contract manufacturing purchasing fair called Re-Shoring: Bringing Work Back to the U.S.A.. I really really would like to attend this event but it’s scheduled May 12, 2010 which is too close to the SPESA show in Atlanta on the 18th (be there or be square). I really regret not going because I’ve toyed with the idea of producing a metal machined product. I didn’t get beyond having a mechanical engineer evaluate it because I figured I’d have to go off-shore just to break even and I just don’t have the time or wherewithal to undertake something like that when it’s something that will never sell in large quantities. That and having my scissors cloned. Who knows, maybe I can find a way to go after all. I think it would be very educational to see how contract manufacturers in other industries interact and facilitate contract work with their manufacturer customers.
I close with this observance, a bit off topic.
One reason smaller firms have become less profitable or rather, fighting for margins as they are is because they’ve adopted some practices used by larger firms that act to their detriment. As I mentioned in comments in this entry, I prefer businesses by size depending on the context.
I like smaller businesses because they’re more hands on and they traditionally spent more locally and were comparatively more profitable (employee head count divided by sales) than large ones but their internal operations can be nigh on arbitrary. I like large firms because their practices are more professional; we share the same points of reference making them easier to work with. The downside is less profit per employee, likely owing (in part) to the escalation of transaction costs typical of far flung enterprises employing outsourcing. In some respects, start ups have adopted the most obvious and riskier practices of large enterprises like outsourcing, incurring the same transaction costs without the trade off of equal access to capital larger firms enjoy (and tying up cash flow for required pre-payment through the long delivery cycle) but haven’t adopted the better standardized internal practices. Whatever, this is an observation not a lecture but if you’re so inclined, you might want to read Why you should start your own sewing factory. Use what you can and leave the rest.
Have a great day. I’m going thrift store shopping! Hopefully I’ll find cool stuff to tell you about later.
Continue reading "What is Reshoring -circuitously" »
1 comment /
Glossary, Lean Manufacturing, Operations /
Email to a friend
/
Trackback
