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Fit used to be so much better?

By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 2, 2010 at 12:07 pm

Your input is needed. Here’s the context of a discussion I’m having:

I am most interested in the idea of fit, a quality that seems elusive and perhaps worth “investing” in. Also explaining to women what’s happened to clothes, why people say “fit used to be so much better.”

People say clothing fit used to be so much better. Is this true? False? I think we intuitively know this to be true. Maybe sort of kind of. I’ll leave my thoughts on the subject in comments rather than cluttering this up. Please tell us why/why not clothing fits worse/better -and why if you can. Give it your best shot and thanks.

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How to be sustainable, protect your IP and still make loads of money

By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 1, 2010 at 1:50 pm

ostrichMy favorite books aren’t about sewing but about building things sustainably. Like how to dig a well, build a water pump to plumb a home, pull stumps, how to make your own tools, sanitize drinking water with leach fields you build yourself -all without electricity or fossil fuel dependent machinery. There’s a danger in being chained to the reliance of a complex power grid that could be withdrawn at any moment. I feel the same way about sewing. Wait too long and the low prices we’ve become accustomed to paying will evaporate. Asia can charge what they like, we won’t have the choice of doing for ourselves once we’ve forgotten how or worse, no longer have domestic supplies to do it.

By way of illustration, Vesta sent me a link to a disturbing story about the mining of rare earth minerals, elements used in everything from hybrid cars to smartphones. We used to mine those in the US but in a “cost saving” gesture, we passed it off to China along with the intellectual property and tooling to do it. Last year, China implemented dramatic quotas to limit their rare earth mineral exports, now they’re keeping the minerals for themselves. Meaning things like smartphones and hybrid cars will only be manufactured in China or locations they dictate and at the prices they charge or else. And it’s not even that there’s something nefarious behind it. With rising wages and living standards in China, they need materials to meet increasing domestic demand. Our problem is that we’ve forgotten how to mine the stuff cost effectively and we’re sitting on 15% of the world’s supply.

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Who sells the most at market -and why pt.2

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 31, 2010 at 10:28 am

Continuing from yesterday, I believe the second psychological factor that prevents people from opening their own sewing factory is based on an inappropriate emotional response mostly because manufacturing has an image problem. It makes me very very sad. Most people think factories are terrible places, that you only work in one if you have no other options, presumably because factory workers aren’t very bright. I’ll spare you the revisionist semi-rant but I have spent the best years of my life in factories. On one hand we decry the erosion of our economy due to the loss of US manufacturing jobs but on the other, we don’t encourage our young people to pursue careers in it because we think they’re smarter than that and of course, we find it repugnant. This has got to change.

We have a schizophrenic attitude about manufacturing in the US. If we’re not thinking it’s horrible, on the other hand, when we find domestic producers, we celebrate them as some kind of hero, that they are unusual and made of more special stuff than we are. I’m telling you I know they are not. They are no different from you, their sources of information are no different from yours. The only difference I can see is that they don’t think manufacturing is beneath them; manufacturing excites them; they work hard at it. F-I visitors often send me inspiring articles about such and such company producing domestically but I often can’t write about them because I can’t separate what I know directly versus what’s been published in a newspaper or appears in a video -and then it annoys me that some of the facts in the story are wrong and I can’t correct it without betraying confidences.

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Who sells the most at market -and why

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 30, 2010 at 2:38 pm

Every Friday, the California Apparel News newsletter contains ungated links to free content. Last Friday’s edition had numerous articles about the recent MAGIC and satellite shows in Las Vegas. The one element that is increasingly common -practically a clamor now- based on interviews with attendees and exhibitors alike is that immediates are selling best.

This isn’t anything new, I’ve been saying immediates (meaning, product delivery within 4 weeks) are the singular advantage you have over everyone else but DEs, in their struggle to be as profitable as the big guys, are copying what they think is most profitable about those models when what they’re really doing is copying the most obvious. This is a mistake. If the big outfits could, they’d try to be littler in terms of shortened delivery windows, smaller lots and higher prices. DEs are ideally suited to produce immediates; you can get more money for them because they are rare. Cutting to order prevents a stockpile of inventory diminishing the value of your product that you are forced to sell -and probably for less than you anticipated. Zara never has a sale, their inventory turns in two weeks or less.

A lot of DEs are making up product in advance of orders. Unless they have a track record and proven distribution already, most of them go broke. At best, they bleed money until they get lucky but most don’t. Get lucky that is. Making it is never a question of luck! Most DEs who adopt this model fail but their failure is invisible because they don’t last long enough to serve as a warning to other startups. DEs only see the outliers that get lucky enough to peg the market just right which builds the expectation that if you only hit the trends, you can make it too. In this way, the rare performer becomes the norm that everyone tries to copy. Worse, DEs aspire to producing large lots. I can’t tell you how many people say they have to make do with producing domestically until they get the numbers to go overseas when a different perspective could change their entire plan for the better.

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Archives 8/20 8/26 2005-2009

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 28, 2010 at 11:04 am

What a week! I think I’m caught up on most of my email so if you are awaiting a response, do resend. I hope to catch up with posting entries next week and really appreciate your patience. Until then, here is the list of entries published on this site over the past five years. There’s still more in the archives if you have some time to kill. Hope your weekend is lovely.

August 20, through August 26, 2005
Retail buyer complaints
Ironies of fabric sourcing
Lean Laundry
10 signs of a problem designer
My dirty laundry

August 20, through August 26, 2006
Rain rain go away
Analyzing business plans pt.4
Sizing is a variety problem
Leadership and implementing change
How to design packaging
What are jobbers?
How to buy wholesale fabric
Analyzing business plans pt.5
What is a bridge line?
What are Look Books?
What does “self” mean?

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Resolve

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 24, 2010 at 4:36 pm

bob_me_and_mikeSometimes being a blogger isn’t a lot of fun. You have to be upbeat, funny, useful or what have you regardless of how you’re feeling or what’s going on in your life. I usually fake the minor things -a tax audit- well and don’t mention it. Other times things feel too personal to share but then you lack an explanation for your silence.

I will be away for a few days. My uncle died. We were very close, he was a loving father and supportive friend to me and a grandfather to my son. He collapsed while moving some boxes at the food bank, a part of his ministry. It was very unexpected, he was very active and thought to be in very good health. I am doing as well as can be expected but not focused enough to work, dealing with family things as I am.

As much as I appreciate your compassion, I would be happier were you to resolve to call a loved one you’ve not spoken to in awhile, maybe for years. It would bring me pleasure and peace to know who you called today.

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Archives 8/13- 8/19 2005-2009

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 20, 2010 at 8:23 am

I’m out of the office today but will be checking in sporadically. Kindred are gearing up for Indian Market in Santa Fe; our sister city’s number one tourist event of the year. Gal pal Sal, Mr. Fashion-Incubator and I will be going tomorrow so I hope to have photos and stories to share with you next week. If you’re local and want to meet, we’d be delighted to meet with you -especially if you’re buying lunch! Seriously, call my cell (on the about page).

Until soon, here is the list of entries published on this site over the past five years. As ever, there are more in the archives. Have a great weekend.

August 13, through August 19, 2005
Interfacing: 10 tips
What is a line sheet?
Shopping industrial machines
Sourcing apparel industry sites
Tools and Supplies

August 13, through August 19, 2006
The Importance of Follow-Up
Trunk show at Bendel’s
How to get publicity pt.2
Question on freelance design
Freight and warehouse chargebacks
Analyzing business plans pt.3

August 13, through August 19, 2007
Showing a children’s wear line
Poll of the day: darts 2
Poll of the day: True Bias
Recalled Chinese products
Poll of the day: True Bias 2
Sizing for the Eco market
The birth of size 10?
News from you 8/17/2007

August 13, through August 19, 2008
Pop Quiz #476 pt. 2
A nice sleeve vent finish
Pop Quiz #477
News from you 8/15/2008
Pop Quiz #477: Why the shirt fits badly
Pop Quiz 477: Plus size grading

August 13, through August 19, 2009

Pattern Puzzle: Collar or tie?
Needle feed sewing machines
How to avoid trouble if using bamboo fabrics

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How to get a job being a fit model

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 18, 2010 at 11:31 am

Continuing from What is a fit model and before you worry about how to get a job being a fit model (or hiring one), you should figure out if you even want the job.

Working conditions: The work is not glamorous, it’s thankless hard work. Sure, the $75-$150 hourly rate you can expect from the largest employers looks good on paper but between the good and bad, you’ll earn every penny of it. You can expect to be treated as an inanimate object -not because people are horrible but because they are used to working on a form that doesn’t complain when pinned, prodded or pushed and they’re concentrating on the product, not you. Expect to be stuck with pins occasionally, expect fitters to be occasionally insensitive, expect for your feet to hurt. The client will (or should) expect you to wear the same pair of shoes and foundations from one fit session to the next. You’ll need to keep a work diary to track the use of specific items.

It is not unusual to have an audience while changing your clothes. Watching someone get in and out of a garment is vital information, as important as fitting to size itself. If disrobing in front of people makes you uncomfortable, ask for someone -a pattern maker is best- to assist you in the changing room even though you may not need help so the company can get the information they need. If you undress unobserved, no one will know if a zipper is a tiny bit too short or if it is too difficult to get your shoulders into a snugly fitted top.

They should ask you how it feels. This is a product review, they need to know everything that is wrong with the product because it is not a designer, merchandiser or pattern maker validation session. You’ll need to mention whether elastics, cuffs or waistbands feel snug even if they don’t bother you. Don’t make any remarks about styling elements, it’s not appropriate to volunteer whether you do or don’t like it or think it needs a smaller collar, shorter skirt etc. unless someone asks you. If someone should, be as ambiguous as possible. There are exceptions of course if you’ve developed a relationship and have proven your value as a muse. And as Barb mentions, hold still! Don’t preen and twirl while you face the mirror. We’re paying to look at you, not for you to look at you.

One last thing to discuss is health and safety. Call me weird but with communicable diseases being what they are, I would supply my own pins at every session and insist those are used. You might have to get with them to figure out what pins they prefer but I wouldn’t want to get stuck with pins that had been used on who knows who else before me. Speaking of, get a tetanus shot. I get one every ten years on my birthday.

Confidentiality: One’s fit model is often a valuable secret and you shouldn’t let it be known who you’re working for or you could be out of a job. A lot of manufacturers will assume you know this and may not think to have you sign a confidentiality agreement. Whether you’re asked to sign one or not, they will assume you will not disclose that you work for them nor pass along any internal anecdotes you may be privy to and of course, no style details or disclosures either.

Maintaining confidentiality makes it more challenging to get work so you’re in the same boat as pattern makers and sewing contractors. Exercise caution in how you publicly describe your work history. YOu can only describe previous and current employers in broad terms such as: “Missy fit model size 8, worked x years/months for long established mid-town contemporary sportswear line”. At your interview it is acceptable to say who you worked for but you should never market yourself this way. A reputable employer will not ask you anything about their competitors such as who does what job, who or how many people they have on staff or where they get work done etc. It would be very unprofessional for them to ask and even more so for you to answer. If you’re a chatterbox, they’ll assume you’ll be a chatterbox about them too.

How to get work as a fit model:
Most of the time, fit modeling is a part time job you do for a friend who has a clothing line. That’s the truth. How you structure the arrangement with your friend is not something I can tell you. For nearly all others, fit modeling is a part time job that gives you occasional spending money.

Some fit models find work by posting on craigslist, looking for ads (craigslist, WWD etc) or by signing on with an agency that provides these services to manufacturers. Some agencies are better than others. If I search on an agency site looking for a model of specific dimensions and the results return page after page of glamorous photos, I won’t have any confidence in the agency. Especially if the “fit models” double as fashion models (exceptions are special sizes like plus size and petites). I’d probably give up and hang out at the mall looking at people until I saw a body I liked and then try to approach the person in a tactful way that wouldn’t get me injured or arrested. Once, a guy nearly attacked me because I was trying to take pictures of his wife’s butt. Some people have no appreciation of professionalism at all. I’ve tried placing ads for fit models (yes, pattern makers often hire them) but it is often a horrible proposition. 99.999% either do not know what a fit model is, think they get to keep the clothes, think it means getting in the door to fashion modeling and that they can earn $250-$1,000 an hour -and often all four. Nearly all of them are unsuitable for fashion modeling too but that’s another story. I once hired a little girl to fit model children’s coats and her parents expected me to pay for her to get braces on her teeth.

Speaking of ads, you’ll commonly see help wanted ads for fit models but read carefully. Many are full time jobs -as receptionists; the fit modeling work is only a few hours a week. It’s better to expect to be paid what receptionists make, not what fit models do because that will be the majority of your work. You probably won’t think it’s fair but in their mind, that was one qualification for receptionist you had that someone else didn’t and they’ve done fairly by you by giving you a job. Who knows, maybe you can negotiate a wage increase for the hours spent fit modeling but then again, fit duties could provide a welcome respite to you by then.

Personally, I think there should be a law against anyone’s love interest being the fit model. Males in the chain (sales managers, VPs, designers etc) can be the worst about it. If a model has a 28″ bust and a 29″ waist, she is not a missy size 10 no matter how much you are crushing on her. I actually had to use a model like this -and keep a straight face doing it. We went from using a healthy B+/C- cup to a -AAA cup, her waist was bigger than her bust. It was the stupidest thing ever, we were having to recut every single style we’d been producing for 50 years. It was abject stupidity and just one reason they ended up closing down. I think a pattern maker’s opinions should have a lot of weight in a fit model decision. But I digress.

At the first meeting you should expect a verbal and physical interview. Your measurements will be taken and recorded. Do expect to have to try on a few clothing items. They will usually pick signature pieces of which performance and fit are well established. Expect to be photographed and don’t make the mistake of asserting you have any rights to their use (amateur hour). Photos are often used internally as a point of comparison to select the best candidate and then discarded. Then again, you want to avoid the possibility of your photos being used to direct fit changes to offshore contractors if they’re using an interview as a free fit session. If they do their patterns and product development in house, pictures are okay. However, if the meeting evolves into an actual fit session meaning someone is pinning and marking or taking fit related notes or soliciting wearability feedback, you need to have a tactful response planned because the interview is over and the work has begun.

You should bring a range of shoes with varying heel height. You will need a variety of bras and panties. Please! wear! a! bra! and! panties! Nobody cares if you think undergarments are a communist-chauvinist plot to dominate and degrade women. Start with comfortable shoes, not pretty ones. Hopefully all of your footwear will be easy on your feet and prevent your back from hurting after standing for hours at a time. Bring your inventory of shoes, bras and panties to every fit session unless you know they’re unnecessary. By the way, you should expect complete privacy while changing your undergarments.

Earnings: I regret to tell you that most fit models don’t make much. Very few professional fit models will be reading this so if you are, by default, you’re probably not in the same category (I sold a photo once but it doesn’t make me a professional photographer). Which is not to say you couldn’t get there. Point is, professionals can get $75 to $150 an hour. Everybody else, it’s catch as catch can. I’ve paid as little as $20 an hour for a squirmy kid who wouldn’t follow direction up to $35 to a clerk I found working in a bridal store. I live in a mid level cost city and I don’t need a lot of fit model services so I doubt I would pay more than $50 and I would have to love their body (we often don’t; we’re making do). And if I did find a fit model I loved, I would hire him or her more frequently or for longer periods but I wouldn’t want to pay a higher hourly rate. Obviously your mileage may vary.

In summary, a fit model is not a fashion model and the chances of breaking into fashion modeling from fit modeling are effectively ZERO. As to whether you can become a fit model, ask yourself this question: do your measurements represent the AVERAGE figure of a given manufacturer’s size spread? In other words, are you average? I’ll repeat that, are you average? If you are 5′8″ and 105 lbs, you are not average; you’re too tall and too thin to be a fit model. I told this to one girl last week and she calmly assured me that she believed “in her dreams” and knew she could “build a niche” for herself. If you have measurements that are appreciably atypical and find an inexperienced designer who makes the mistake of hiring you, I have three suggestions. Get your check before you leave, cash it immediately and don’t expect this to become a long term gig.

Related:
How to get a job being a fit model
What is a fit model?
Fit model’s blog
A perfect fit model

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What is a fit model?

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 17, 2010 at 11:52 am

This is the first of two entries. I intended to post it as one but it got too long. Part two on how to get work as a fit model or how to hire one will be posted tomorrow.

Preamble: In 2006, I posted an entry about a well known cartoonist for the New Yorker who worked as an occasional fit model. Since then, the entry continues to collect comments from people who have been interested in becoming fit models and wanted to know how to go about it only, few of them who post comments appear to know what a fit model is. Most aspire to making a lateral move into fashion modeling from fit modeling -you know, like they teach you in school that you can become a designer by being a pattern maker first ~shudder~. This is the painful truth: the chances of breaking into fashion modeling from fit modeling are effectively ZERO. Many -new designers and prospective models alike- do not understand what a fit model is. Strangely enough, the post I’d written about the perfect fit model a month prior doesn’t get many comments. Too bad, it provided some useful hints.

Today I will provide some background for people who want to become fit models and those who seek to hire them. The first step in getting started as a fit model is to know what one is and the function they are expected to perform. How can you expect to do a job if you don’t know what the job is? A fit model:

  • is NOT a fashion model.
  • is not fashionably thin, quite the opposite.
  • does not need to be attractive.
  • is not used in fashion photos.
  • represents the average customer of a given manufacturer, namely the middle size of the size spread or size run.

Because there are many kinds of manufacturers and the size ranges they sell, many kinds of products and many kinds of people, there is an endless variety of fit models who may be needed making it difficult to define one. The size of a fit model depends on the size spread or size run of varying manufacturers. For example, if manufacturers offer these sizes, the given size fit model should be:

  • Sizes: 0-12, the fit size is 6
  • Sizes: 4-14, the fit size is 8
  • Sizes: 6-16, the fit size is 10
  • Sizes: XS-XL, the fit size is M

If the manufacturer produces an even number of sizes, the fit size is usually the smaller of the two middle sizes. This explains why with sizes 4-14 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14), sizes 8 and 10 are in the center but the size 8 is selected as the average or median size.

Region: The size range is not the total answer either. The region of the country in which you work also matters a great deal. In NY, a size 8 is the most common fit size. Most everywhere else, the standard fit size is a 10.

Cost: The cost of the line also matters. More expensive product lines use a smaller sized fit model because wealthier people are thinner and vice versa. For example, the traditional fit model size in Dallas is a 10. However, if the line is a bridge or expensive contemporary line, it would not unheard of if the fit model were a size smaller (8) than typical for the area.

Height range/Women:

  • Petites: Average height for women in the US is a little under 5′4″. Petites are defined as 5′4″ and under. Most petite manufacturers fit at the upper end of the range and will want a fit model who is 5′3″ to 5′4″. This means that although you may wear petite sized clothes, 5 foot is too short. Sorry.
  • Average: It is difficult to define a height range because a target consumer can vary so widely. For middle range lines, the average height is at least 5′6″ or even 5′7″. If the line is more expensive, a taller fit model is used because wealthier people are taller on average. These lines will seek a model who is 5′7″ to 5′9″. The lowest cost lines in the average range often do not use fit models at all because their product development processes and costs are pared to match their pricing.
  • Talls: Being specialty lines, the height requirement can vary a great deal. Some target taller than average women (5′7″-5′10″+/-) and others target very tall women (5′10″-6′2″). It is impossible to say. Being smaller niche lines, the designer is often her own fit model. Within specialty lines, it is more typical for the manufacturer to occasionally want a range of various models who will represent the various sizes in the size spread to get an idea of how well their styles fit across the range of sizes they offer. These jobs are rarely long term, more of a one-time thing.

Height range/Men:

  • Shorts: The caveats about niche lines mentioned under tall women applies here too. I’m not familiar with lines that dress shorter men, my brother in law says buying clothes is terrible. He is a perfectly proportioned 5′6″.
  • Average: Average height for men in the US is 5′9″ but most manufacturers cut their sizes for a man who is at least 5′10 or 5′11″. Again, “average” is misleading because pricier or specialty lines need and use taller models. Specialty lines such as fitness apparel (cycling, climbing etc) are unique in that the models may be taller but also fitter. By contrast, only rarely is fitness (a specific range within the BMI index) important in women’s apparel. It is not unusual for other specialty lines like western wear to use a taller model, say six foot.
  • Big and Talls: This category is misleading because tall doesn’t necessarily mean big. Talls are usually 5′11″ to 6′4″ with the average fit model 6′2″. A big and tall fit model will be the same with girth proportions being more important than height.

Weight range/ Women:

  • Petites: petite and short are not synonyms! Petites have a smaller frame size and shorts are an average frame size who happen to be shorter. A true petite should weigh about 2 to 3 pounds for every inch over five foot, plus 100 lbs. Meaning, a 5′4″ true petite fit model should weigh about 108-115 lbs. If the line is for “petites” who are larger framed but happen to be short, you should weigh about 3 to 5 pounds for every inch over five foot, plus 100 lbs. Meaning, a 5′4″ short (petite) fit model should weigh about 115-120 lbs.
  • Average: average doesn’t mean much but you should weigh about 5 to 7 pounds for every inch over five foot plus 100 lbs. A 5′6″ average model should weigh 128 to 135 lbs.
  • Plus size fit models should weigh about 7 to 9 lbs for every inch over five foot plus 100 lbs. A 5′8″ plus size fit model should weigh 155 to 170 lbs. It is not unusual for plus size models to be taller than fit models of average frame sized lines. Since dimensions can vary so much more in plus sizes, most manufacturers are seeking models whose dimensions are proportionate. Meaning, that the differences between bust, waist and hip, don’t vary more than 8 inches plus or minus with the waist being the smaller measurement.

Weight range/Men:

  • Lines most likely to use a male fit model will use a medium or size 42. A male model should weigh 7 to 9 pounds for every inch over 5 foot plus 100 lbs. A man who is 5′11″ should weigh about 177-195 lbs. Again, one’s mileage varies depending on the product line. If the intended consumer is very active (climber, distance runner, triathlete etc), the manufacturer will be interested in a man who weighs 6 or 7 pounds per inch over five foot plus 100 pounds.

Proportions and Dimensions: Chest, waist and hip
Many women think that having a cute figure (larger than average bust but slender etc) makes them a shoe-in but nothing can be farther from the truth. The best way to know if your key measurements are within range for fit modeling is to look at sizing charts of various clothing lines. The closer you match the dimensions of their middle size, the better a match you are. Generally, you can’t get a job fit modeling if you wear a cup size larger than C and even that is dicey. Of course caveats abound. A clothing line designed for fuller busted women will want the larger cup size. Being specialty lines, only the designer can say who their model or customer is.

Tomorrow I will post the rest. It will include information on working conditions, pay, how to find a fit model and how to get a job fit modeling.

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Which size should be used for costing? pt.2

By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 16, 2010 at 4:10 pm

optimal_sizeIn part one I asked which size should be the size used for costing if sizes ranged from 28-48 with inseams varying from 28-36.

Here’s how I set it up, waist sizes on the horizontal across the top and inseams on the vertical axis to locate the mid point of the range. The blue box shows what should be the costing size, a 38 waist with 32 inch inseam. The size this firm had been using is illustrated in red, a 34/32.

I know this isn’t the final best possible answer but it’s at least 4″ better than their last one.

Sarah gave the answer I was looking for which is not to say other suggestions weren’t also good or pragmatic. Alison said it should be based on marker allocation (and it should) but this can vary according to size distribution of a given order and it requires that purchasing and sales have yield information at their disposal and they often don’t. This is how a lot of companies are run these days. Alison then suggested the costing size be based on the median size of the order but again, this solution requires they have the allocation figures for a given order.

Barb had an interesting suggestion, to cost on the median size for the majority of orders placed with an up charge on the larger sizes.

Lastly, Esther said CAD systems do a costing marker (true) which provides the best figure for cost analysis but again, this solution would require tighter communication of critical data between sales and the pattern department.

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