By Kathleen Fasanella on Oct 10, 2013 at 4:41 pm
Be forewarned that this is closer to an inquiry than a tutorial.
Tolerances are a plus or minus measurement used on a tech pack to determine whether a product meets a specified quality standard. It is usually expressed as plus or minus. For example, one point of measure (POM) for a bust line may say the tolerance is plus or minus 1/2″. This means that for each size (34, 36, 38 etc), the garment bust measure could be 33.5″-34.5″ for the size 34; 35.5″-36.5″ for the size 36, etc.. My inquiry today is how are these tolerances determined? Frankly, it seems like many of them are drawn out of thin air or copied from similar tech packs wherever one can find them.
Tolerances are a new wrinkle and I’m not finding established or good practices to follow. In the olden days, few worried about tolerances because most everyone made their own stuff. Since things have changed, people have been winging it and don’t let anyone tell you differently. That doesn’t mean some people don’t have the right or good answers only that there is no established practice, much less agreement on how to do it.
Continue reading "How to develop sewing tolerances" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Oct 9, 2013 at 2:11 pm
Sheesh, can you believe I forgot to hit publish? I wrote this a week ago… I was wondering why it didn’t get any comments.
And today for your viewing pleasure, a selection of marking guides caught in the wild. So what are marking guides you ask? Well, since you may not have seen the previous entries discussing it, nor perhaps read pages 150-153 in my book which explains how to make them, marking guides are pretty much what they sound like. These are templates made of oak tag pattern paper or even plastic, that are used to mark the placement of artwork or details like pockets and such, on your products. Typically one marks the cut pieces after fusing but before sewing. Marking guides are reserved for marking when you can’t use a drill during the cutting process (most placement marks are drilled).
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 25, 2013 at 4:45 pm
The images at bottom show suggested placement (or map as I’ve taken to calling them) of fusible interfacing that is typical of a mid to higher price point lined vest with welt pockets. The sample garment (style #22200) is shown at right.
Keep in mind that there is always variation in practices between manufacturers owing to desired or expected garment performance. In this case, the vest (being a split suede) is a 2 oz garment weight leather -which isn’t noted for keeping its shape without a little assistance. Hence the fusible. And yes of course you can press leather, don’t fret so much over it. At close are links that provide back story should you need that but suffice to say, I’ve become partial to knit nylon tricot fusible. It sets quickly (no, we don’t hold the iron down for a count of x) and neatly with a bit of steam. I also fuse without a pressing cloth but then my iron has a teflon (or is it silicone?) shoe so nothing sticks to it.
Continue reading "Fusing Map: Lined Leather Vest" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 24, 2013 at 5:05 pm
The universe speaks! Follows is a redux of conversations I’ve had with colleagues over the past two days. Designers launching a line, it would be useful to follow along as it could reduce a lot of confusion and complexity you have experienced when sourcing services.
Context: my colleagues are old school pattern makers (mostly a good thing) who, while not opposed to CAD and may have even used it, don’t have a CAD system themselves. My position is that if a patternmaker is planning to stay in the game for at least the next 10 years, they need to get a CAD system.
Old school context: The range of pattern services to include pattern making, grading and marking, have always been separate functions and often, done by 3 different people. The patternmaker made patterns, a pattern grader graded the patterns for sizes and the marker maker made markers from the patterns for production to cut the fabric. Usually or often, patterns were made by hand with the grading and marking done by computer. Now, while each party may have used the same software and hardware for these different functions, they did not do each others jobs or only rarely and under duress. As in, somebody died.
Continue reading "On becoming a CAD pattern maker pt.2" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 17, 2013 at 4:32 pm
I’ve been turning this over in my head -how does one make facings- for the last week or so and finally decided to risk looking stupid to ask about it. The reason being, many comments on Patternmaking Made Easy giveaway made reference to facings as being particularly vexing. No slight intended but until today, I didn’t understand what the big deal was.
So today I did a search for “facing draft tutorial” and found quite a few on the web, many of them prettily done. None of them tho, used any of the ways I’ve done it (pp 154-155 in my book) or have seen it done in the trade. I thought it a bit strange because you’d think that some of the usual suspects (who purport to have been industrial pattern makers or claim their “industrial friend” told them how) would have posted better information. Hmm. But no, all the tutorials I found are just like the ones in pattern books. So. Considering that you can search as well as the next person, have bought the same books and you still need clarification on the topic tells me that facing drafting isn’t as known as I thought.
Continue reading "So… how do you make facings?" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 11, 2013 at 1:35 pm
My life would be so much easier if more of you would take pains to keep in contact with your preferred educator at wherever it was you went to school. Okay, that is the sum of my tough love lecture but seriously, it’d be great if you all would do this more often.
There are a lot of good reasons to do it, yeah, there’s all the feel good back patting but like anyone, educators need to know the positive impact they’ve made in your lives. It could be as simple as dropping a card in the mail, it will brighten their day even if they don’t remember you!
Now to the point of today’s lecture -it’s becoming increasingly difficult to find skilled workers, specifically pattern makers, graders and such. If you would like to be notified of opportunities, the first people called these days are college professors. And college professors are going to recommend former students who have kept in touch with them. Now, your situation may be such that you’re not looking for work but this can always change. Therefore, it’s best to make goodwill deposits in your favor bank in advance of need.
Continue reading "When is the last time you called your professors?" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 6, 2013 at 8:24 pm
Many apologies for my tardy posting. I’ve had a dear friend and long time customer on the premises, burning the midnight oil for the past two days. Be that as it may, I’ve not forgotten my pretties.
This giveaway -Draping: The Complete Course- was a popular one as well should it have been. I am looking forward to seeing commentary from the inter tubes once it has been released for sale and folks have had an opportunity to sample its intellectual largesse.
To recap, you can pre-order this book now. I’d actually recommend it because it helps the publisher gauge the size of the print run and if they run out, well, you know how that goes, you have to wait until the powers that be decide if and when it may be worth reprinting. There are too many promising products that are never rerun after the first splash because not enough expressed sufficient interest to buy it when it mattered.
Continue reading "Winner: Day 7 Giveaway of Draping, The Complete Course" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 5, 2013 at 4:57 pm
The winner of the Day 6 giveaway of Connie Crawford’s Grading Workbook is Demetra! Yay!
Grading Workbook by Connie Crawford
122 pp, 8.5″ x 11″
Make note of the variety of purchasing options. It comes in hard copy or ebook (pdf) and there is a grading ruler available too. The options are:
Printed version (book only): $37.50
Printed Book with Grading Ruler: $44.50
E-Book only: $29.50
E-Book with Grading Ruler: $36.50
Printed Book and E-Book: $49.50
Printed Book, E-Book, and Grading Ruler: $54.50
There is still one last giveaway that of the draping book -please, only one entry per person. The deadline is 5:00 PM MST Friday Sept 6, 2013.
Continue reading "Winner of Day 6 Giveaway: Grading Workbook" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 4, 2013 at 4:08 pm
Ta Da! The winner for day#5 of giveaways is… Malorie. Yay! Malorie, be sure to send me your address so the publisher can ship this to you.
Again, this book won’t be available until October 22nd although the rest of you can pre-order Stylish Dress Book: Clothing for Everyday Wear on Amazon.
Stylish Dress Book: Clothing for Everyday Wear
200 illustrations, 87 pp
9.25″ x 7.25″, paperback
Publisher: Laurence King
Published October 22, 2013
Continue reading "Winner: Day 5 Giveaway of Stylish Dress Book" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 3, 2013 at 6:16 pm
And now we come to the final day of our 7 day, 7 book giveaway… people, I’m thinking this one -Draping: The Complete Course- is a game changer; this book is exquisite. It would seem that many agree with me, newly published last month, it is already out of stock. Oh wait, there’s a bit of confusion. Amazon shows it won’t go on sale until October 1st. Either way, I recommend pre-ordering it. You want to make sure you’ll get a copy when they come available. Really, you will. This is the book of the year, maybe even the book of next year. I haven’t ever seen anything like this -it weighs 4 pounds! All I can say is that I’m glad I don’t write draping books because this would be a tough act to follow.
Now. As a lot of you already know, I’m not too wild on draping. Not that I don’t care for it, not that I don’t think it’s a great thing and it definitely has its uses, but I’m one of those (apparently rare?) people who can create flounces, cowls -you know, all draped styles- with paper and pencil or CAD. Frankly until I started this blog, I didn’t know that everyone else couldn’t because any place I’d worked, everybody else drafted exclusively too.
Continue reading "Day 7 Giveaway. Draping: The Complete Course" »
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