A frequently heard lament is the dearth of pattern making books specific to the male form. Toward addressing the oversight comes a recently released title called Patternmaking for Menswear by Gareth Kershaw, from Laurence Publishing.
Before I start though, I confess a bit of wariness. Whenever I review a book, the most frequent response is whether the book will resolve whatever ill one has or whether it is the Holy Grail/Rosetta Stone of drafting texts. Few books are that. Drafting books are no different than cook books and although few of us are professional cooks, most of us have a variety of cookbooks. As such, if this is your profession or your professional interest, you’re well served to have a variety of texts that speak to your interests. If your budget requires closer scrutiny to acquire books, consider the library as an option. Keep in mind that I don’t review books that I feel are without merit. This one is relatively inexpensive ($40 list) and represents good value. Oh, before I forget, how I review patternmaking books may be helpful too.
Today we have a guest entry written by textile artist Kelly Cobb, who is an assistant professor in the fashion department at the University of Delaware. Written to include the sometimes competing priorities of various readers, Kelly includes a resource list at close to further your exploration. My sincerest thanks to Kelly for this thoughtful review. ——————– Digital Textile Design Second Edition, $40. 192 pp by Melanie Bowles and Ceri Issac
The universe of textile design is becoming more and more inclusive with the onset of technological innovations that allow anyone interested access to high-end printing capabilities. The potential to create custom prints is appealing and very accessible with operations like Spoonflower or Fabric on Demand. Digital Textile Design focuses on the evolving world of digital print technologies, offering tutorials and case studies geared towards “practitioners” of textile design. There are many facets of practitioner! Below, I review Digital Textile Design from three perspectives.
This is one of those things that I think everybody knows already so why do a tutorial on it, but I’ve needed to show it to 2 people in the last month. I would consider these people to be experienced, so I’m thinking it should be better known. This tutorial will show you how to insert elastic into a casing without resorting to using a safety pin or bodkin. It won’t help for elastic that is stitched down so all I can say is use what you can and leave the rest.
The first step is to sew the elastic into a loop (without twists obviously). This is pictured at right.
Second step (below), have the garment or product ready for the casing. Meaning, finish off the side seams and what have you. For my sample, I’ve sewn one seam into a rectangle of muslin. As per my usual, I’m using a contrasting color thread so you can see the stitching.
Yay! After saying for ages that I’d start a retail pattern line, I finally have. It’s called Savant Patterns. This is the logo that Jasonda did for me. I still owe her money for it now that I think about it. She didn’t bill me because she was late but still, decorum dictates. She has done several jobs for me, I just can’t say enough about her work.
Or maybe you’re one of those people who resolve to do the terrifying as a matter of course. If so, we hate you. Nothing personal.
Seriously -when’s the last time you stretched? Comfy in your complacency? Yeah, me too. Comes with age? Gosh I hope not. What is different about the close of this year? For whatever reason, I’ve done (or begun) a few things that terrify me in the last two days, and since it seems to be a theme, I’ll appear holier than thou by saying it was planned and I came through. Ha ha. So fake.
I finally opened a 401K for my business; I feel like a grown up. And sure, you could say I should have done it years ago (anticipated or perceived criticism being one reason we avoid doing what we should) and truth be told, all I did was sign the papers. Mr. Fashion-Incubator (who is off work for 2 weeks) did all of the work. That’s a lesson too—get help with your terrifyingness.
Those who know me well, know that there are two subjects I refuse to discuss. And that would be needles and thread. Reason being, I’ve been stuck in too many social situations with needles and thread being the topic du jour. Want to know what a bunch of garmentos talk about when you get them into a room with whiskey and cigars? Needles and thread. Golf course? Needles and thread. Barbeque? Needles and thread. I’ve yet to meet anybody who has been in this business for 30 years or more, whose eyes didn’t light up like a 5 year old’s on Christmas morning at the prospect of a needle and thread coffee klatch. It could be said that I occasionally exaggerate or am given to hyperbole but I haven’t in this case.
Thoroughly overdosed, a condition of sale for any machine I buy is that it must come with needles so I know what kind to buy for it. I’m fanatical about making sure needles Stay In Their Drawer. Comes such a day when that doesn’t work well anymore because I need several types (ball points, diamond points) and of course, other people pull needles from drawer A and callously deposit them in drawer B. It’s not as though the different types are labeled with Hey! I’m a ball point!; it’s always a list of cryptic string of numbers and letters, and every brand (I have 6) does it differently. And then of course, how can you remember what size and type needle is in what machine? Well, I have that all figured out. Maybe my method will work for you too?
I’ll bet you all thought I’d run away and joined the circus… it’s been crazy busy, same as every December. That reminds me; if you’re looking for services, responses will be slow or maybe even non-existent until the end of January or midway into February. Timing is everything. Be persistent. ————– Some errors that DEs make are so cute that they make me giggle. Not sending enough thread is one of them. Context is that we’re discussing thread for samples or prototypes, not production (by production, you won’t be making this error). Typically, the designer has taken great pains to put their package together—to include what they would consider “extra” thread—because the designer figures the garment couldn’t possibly use more than the total linear feet of one spool. The number of sewn inches is immaterial which is why I think the thread oversight in sampling is cute.
Because there remains ambiguity as to the time and complexity involved in digitizing sewing patterns, I’ve created another video for you. In this video, you can watch my CAD screen while I digitize 10 pattern pieces. Including set up time—creating a file, taping the pieces to the board—digitizing 10 pieces takes all of 30 minutes.
There are actually two videos, here is the second:
Behind the scenes, I’ve been trying to learn screen capture video (again) which will be so helpful to explain things. For example, below is a short video on how to adjust shrinkage or stretch properties (it is the same thing) for a pattern. I used StyleCAD but any industrial CAD program provides the same function.
The matter of knowing what percentages to use to attain a given grade -say 2″- is but a bit of math or even, iteration. When I’m not so pressed for time, I’ll do a video on that too and post a link accordingly. In any event, the video is useful because you can see that if a service provider needs to adjust your pattern for shrinkage, it is fairly straightforward.
Returning to the list of topics from the reader’s poll, stretch knit pattern grading is next so that’s what we’ll do today. To refresh your memory, I’d said, knit pattern grading the way that Stuart does it which is very different from how we do it in North America. To discuss the dichotomy of Stuart’s approach requires that you already understand grading to see why his method is a departure from what we typically do and we can discuss why it may be better and easier. My role is best described as a facilitator of this discussion because my experience with his method is very limited, albeit successful. And by the way, I refer to Stuart Anderson whose website is better known as Pattern School. Pattern School is offline for now but you can easily access it via the WayBack Machine and all links I’ll use will direct there. Ready? Okey dokey.
Stuart says there are two types of grading, incremental and proportional. Traditionally, we use incremental which means we attach a value to grow or shrink a given point according to X or Y coordinates. [At right is an illustration of rules applied to a pattern the traditional way.] Stuart uses another way, namely proportional. This requires calculating the degree of stretch in the fabric and using a feature common to CAD programs, stretch the pattern pieces in accordance with the stretch properties. Doing it this way can be easier, faster and more accurate than grading via XY coordinates.
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