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By Kathleen Fasanella on Jan 15, 2013 at 7:22 pm
The cut to the chase answer to the question of where and how do you start a design business depends on your goals.
But first, this needs to be tied into last week’s entry What kind of designer are you? because the intention of this series is to make suggestions for self learning to help you get to wherever it is you want to be. To do that, you need to articulate where you want to be because as the old proverb says, if you don’t know where you’re going, any road will get you there.
About goals -this being an entrepreneurship blog- let’s assume you intend to generate a profit. Within that spectrum, there is a wide range of possibilities. Obviously there is overlap but I break this down into four main categories:
- The dilettante: one who aspires to a bit of pin money,
- the income replacer: one who needs income equivalent to a job -or maybe even a bit extra,
- the merchant: those who need to support their family and their employees families with the business,
- corporate: one who aspires to scale; growing their business to whatever limits there are.
There are more traditional size classifications such as local, regional, national and international but those largely don’t apply in this business anymore. For example, I’m a 2 (income replacer) aspiring to be a 3 (merchant) but my reach is international and has been since I was a 1 (the latter due more to circumstances than intent).
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Jan 10, 2013 at 8:18 pm
Can a designer teach her/himself needed skills? If so, how? This was an interesting question posed on the forum today; it speaks to the subject of what kind of designer you are (I started writing this a couple of years ago but never published it). It is too simplistic to say people can teach themselves (they obviously can) successfully and the question is too open ended because there are many types of designers. Depending on the kind of designer you are is what will determine what you need to learn and how to go about doing it. Caveat: There are other lists of designer types (I like the one Danielle wrote). Since I write mostly about designers starting clothing lines, my list describes those on an entrepreneurial path.
Without further ado, here are most of the designer types I can identify -feel free to add to it:
- The artist
- The artisan/engineer/technician
- The mogul
- The accountant
- The project manager
There is no worse or better kind of designer to be because most people are or should be, a combination of each. Anyone who falls into a set category exclusively, probably isn’t healthy because balance is required. That said, the project manager and the accountant are most successful. Doomed to failure -please stop sending me hate mail, I’m tired of it and it’s not working anyway- is the artist and the mogul. Below is an abbreviated description of the archetypes. Once we’ve discussed these, we can go on to discuss paths to preparation for each (the next post).
Continue reading "What kind of designer are you?" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Jan 8, 2013 at 8:58 pm
This is a brief follow up to the earlier post as folks left useful suggestions that deserve more exposure.
In reference to my quest for solutions in better tracking of prototypes, muslins and samples, Lorraine suggested:
Regarding marking mock-ups–we sew in either a blank care label or will make a label cut from interfacing. Every prototype and fit sample is marked with the pattern number, date and name of the sample maker.
There were others of course but this most closely resembled what I was looking for. I also liked Dana’s suggestion of tagging which would work for me since I’m often working off of samples coming in. She said:
I designed a paper tag (string/pin) that I had printed and I attach to all samples. Gives me more room to record date, version, approval status, and any other notes about the piece.
I told her that I had been doing something very similar because most samples I receive from customers aren’t tagged with style numbers. None of my customers are attaching a paper tag but it would be so nice if they did. What is most needed is a simple tag, about the size of a shipping tag with the style number written on it. On the back, the designer’s name and any other pertinent information would be helpful (because I’m not the only one processing incoming items).
Continue reading "SOP: CAD pattern making processes pt.2" »
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By Guest Author on Jan 5, 2013 at 7:38 pm
Thanks for your input on this puzzler -quite a challenge!
For a radical departure from our usual pattern puzzle solution, we have the designer herself to explain it all for us. Please, a warm welcome to Martha Palaza who will explain it all for you!
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Yes, Marita and Natasha were correct in their assumptions.
This dress -called the Quaver Twist- was designed during a creative cutting course at the Academy of Art University while I was working on my MFA in fashion design. The basic assignments for the course included 38 different schematics which were stitched and then placed on the form to create at least 15 different samples. The catch? This degree was completed entirely online so you can imagine the number of samples I have photographed for potential garments.
Once the basic assignment was completed -in this case “Quaver Twist”, quaver referring to the movement of the fabric- we were required to create our own interpretation. Hence the full title of the design: “Quaver Twist Interpretation.”
Although the dress may appear complicated, the process was quite simple. The fabric was marked according to the stitching plan below (click to see a larger image).
Continue reading "Pattern Puzzle: Q Twist pt.2" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Jan 2, 2013 at 1:05 pm
As I mentioned in the previous entry, I needed to create a list of reminders for myself to navigate the differences between making CAD and manual patterns. Some of you may find this list to be a bit funny since you’ve never made patterns any other way than with CAD but I sincerely hope you will add suggestions and refinements. I’d appreciate it very much.
SOP (standard operating procedure) pre-flight checklist for CAD patterns:
Continue reading "SOP: CAD pattern making processes" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Jan 2, 2013 at 12:35 pm
Ah -a new year and fresh beginnings. Everyone is looking for ways to get more for their time, greater efficiencies and all that. For many, this can mean the jump to buying a computer aided drafting program. But wait -as great as they can be- will technology solve your problems? Maybe or maybe not.
I mostly love technology. Between Mr. Fashion-Incubator and me, we own an embarrassing number of computers to include dedicated Linux, PC & Mac computer desktops and laptops. We also have an iPad, Kindle Fire and several smart phones. Now with this embarrassment of technological riches, are we any less tethered or more efficient? Probably neither but then again, we’re largely happy with how we spend our personal time with neither one complaining about how much time whomever spends on the web. And if one does complain, all one need say to the other is “someone is wrong on the internet!” for a free pass.
But I digress somewhat. My point is that technology (and a CAD system) can be great but it won’t necessarily make you more efficient. Successful technology adoption often hinges on our existing habits and work processes. Meaning that if your processes are messed up, technology won’t help you be any less messed up.
Continue reading "Resolutions: Will this be the year you get a CAD system?" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Dec 31, 2012 at 4:31 pm
To close out the year, I thought another pattern puzzle would be in order. I was halfway tempted to post the solution as well because the solution still begs in depth discussion -I haven’t figured it out yet even though I have the answer.
This process has a proper name as designated by its originator but I regretfully omit it because you could do a search and find it. Actually, you probably could find it anyway but be kind and refrain from linking to it. Not that I wouldn’t discourage you because you would probably have more insight to share when I post part two.
For part two, I hope to hear from the designer as to method and process and also, why it is named as it is.
Until next year then. I hope your holiday is warm and wonderful with those you hold dearest.
Continue reading "Pattern Puzzle: Q Twist" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Dec 28, 2012 at 5:12 pm
In response to the first post in this series (Fusing map: Sport coats and suits) Ela writes:
I’m about to dive into my first menswear garment sewing project: making a jacket for my boyfriend. From what I understood, Kathleen, your fusible map is for lined jackets. So my question is… How would a fusible map look on an unlined jacket? I suppose even an unlined jacket (mine will be the casual, informal, destructured kind) must be interfaced in some areas… I’m just really wondering WHERE. Thanks so much in advance.
P.S. The fabric will be wool,, heavier than normal suiting but lighter than the “blanket-y” one.
You don’t mention whether the jacket takes a zipper or buttons but it doesn’t really matter because the closure area needs reinforcement because it takes a lot of wear.
Below I’ve shown a fusing map for an unlined casual jacket with welt pockets. If you don’t want the fusing showing for the pocket, substitute a layer of self/shell fabric instead. The welt itself can be fused because it won’t show once it’s made up. You can click on the illustration (or here) for a larger version of the image.
Continue reading "Fusing Map: Unlined Jacket" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Dec 28, 2012 at 4:17 pm
Thanks everyone for participating in the last giveway. We had 40 contestants for the drawing. Courtesy of the random number generator, the winner is #34. That would be Sylvia -congratulations!
Switching gears -how was your holiday? I didn’t go anywhere but I must have left my brain somewhere; I’ve had the hardest time getting back into working mode -I blame the head cold. I think some people have the right idea; just take off from Christmas through New Year’s. I wish I had the luxury (Mr. F-I is off) but I’m too backed up with projects to take more time off than I already have. I’ll be working weekends for the rest of January to make up for it.
Continue reading "Winner: Digital Textile Design" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Dec 21, 2012 at 4:47 pm
Oh goodie, another freebie!
In keeping with the holidays, we’re giving away a free copy of Digital Textile Design courtesy of Laurence King Publishing [and yours truly who is paying shipping] for which the review was posted today . This offer is open to residents of the U.S.. If you live abroad and are willing to cover shipping (I’ll spot you $5 toward the cost), feel free to enter as well.
Continue reading "Giveaway: Digital Textile Design" »
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