Fashion Incubator » Design http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Fri, 10 Feb 2012 19:36:44 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 en hourly 1 How much cash do you need to start a small clothing line? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-much-cash-do-you-need-to-start-a-small-clothing-line/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-much-cash-do-you-need-to-start-a-small-clothing-line/#comments Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:56:31 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10793 how much cash do you need to start a small menswear label? I haven't responded over there yet, it was too long so I thought to post it here first. I frequently get variations of this question, a previous entry I wrote was how much does it cost to start a handbag line. My stock response is, how much does a house cost? Is it a dump in a crappy neighborhood or is it a restored pristine cottage on Martha's Vineyard? The questioner asked me how much cash I would need and I wouldn't be so boorish as to drill that down because why would he or she care? He or she would want to know what they can expect to pay, not what I would. But then I thought, maybe I should answer the question literally in terms of how much cash I would need to start a menswear clothing line. That is a better question because most startups (nearly all) waste way too much money. Okay, so let's unpack this. By the way, I suggest you hang around for this even if you don't care one whit for menswear. My first thought was "menswear label" is too broad, I'd have to determine my customer within the parameters of what I'm interested in producing. You need to do that too. Is your market young urban males, marathoners, bikers, C-level executives or your average IT guy? Each market has its own dictates for everything from styling and fitting in, to disposable income, signaling requirements and need. Since I have tons of menswear experience, I'd do casual western styled sportcoats at a mid range price point for men aged 35+. Forced to put a point to it, my ideal customer's wife subscribes to Cowboys & Indians while he reads Western Horseman. I'd do that for a few reasons:]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-much-cash-do-you-need-to-start-a-small-clothing-line/feed/ 12 Advice to sewing contractors pt.3 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/advice-to-sewing-contractors-pt-3/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/advice-to-sewing-contractors-pt-3/#comments Wed, 11 Jan 2012 00:22:15 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10692 part one, part two), it has a distinctly different flavor. Again, I think it would be beneficial to read it even if you're not a contractor etc. Without further ado, a sewing contractor friend of mine -let's call him Al- writes:
Sometimes I wonder what should I do in the near future. I have a nucleus of 3 good pattern makers, real seamstress (not just machine operators) in my family plus a better than average setup of sewing machines. Should I produce a line? Should I or shouldn’t I? What would you do if you were me?
Two quick thoughts come to mind. First is that this contractor -in spite of having enviable resources- is facing a lot of the same hurdles that DEs do. Second, that because of these hurdles, you have less to fear from a contractor stealing your ideas than you imagine. Follow me: In the book I explain that the whole shooting match is broken into three phases namely design, sales and production. Of these, Al only has the last part (production) in the bag. He has a few advantages in design in that he has the capacity to make patterns and produce samples but the first part is missing. In the sales segment, he's completely bereft.I know you think anybody in this industry is magically connected to all the other segments in this business but sales is the weak link -particularly for production people because we're talking about two entirely different personality profiles. Simplistically stated, sales and production are like oil and water -immiscible.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/advice-to-sewing-contractors-pt-3/feed/ 4 Review: Leather Fashion Design http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/review-leather-fashion-design/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/review-leather-fashion-design/#comments Wed, 30 Nov 2011 23:35:24 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10443 leather_fashion_design_coverLeather Fashion Design is the newest book written by Francesca Sterlacci, former fashion chair at FIT. Accordingly, some of you probably know her; I've never had the pleasure although I knew of her through an earlier book she wrote called Leather Apparel Design. Speaking of, this new book is very similar to the earlier one so if you have that you may not need this one. The new book amounts to a revised and expanded edition of the previous title which is now out of print. Lastly a caveat on my suitability for reviewing this book; much of my experience is in leather production. Strengths: Overall, it's a solid focus on design and production constraints. In my professional opinion, this is required reading and careful study for anyone who is considering a career in leather production either as a manufacturer or designer. The text contains a nice survey of leather garment history (also nice photos), a comprehensive discussion of hide tanning and processing, as well as much needed explanation of hand, weights and finishes. Subsequent chapters include advice on line planning, costing, cutting, seam finishing and sewing.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/review-leather-fashion-design/feed/ 14 How to illustrate ruffles & skirt fullness http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-illustrate-ruffles-skirt-fullness/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-illustrate-ruffles-skirt-fullness/#comments Mon, 14 Nov 2011 23:54:56 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10334 straight_vs_circular_skirt]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-illustrate-ruffles-skirt-fullness/feed/ 13 La Bricoleuse -a costuming blog http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/la-bricoleuse-a-costuming-blog/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/la-bricoleuse-a-costuming-blog/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 22:55:48 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10239 labricoleuseHark! A new-to-me blog, La Bricoleuse, courtesy of Rachel Pollock, a costume artisan and graduate school professor at UNC Chapel Hill. I don't remember how I found the site but I was immediately attracted to its high quality content. For example, this entry on making a half scale dress form. While it may not be as in depth as one would like, the materials and chemicals used in the process are obvious if you're of a mind to make your own. I think many of the form tutorials available keep sources close to the vest. But maybe not now, I haven't looked in awhile. UNC_student_projectsAnother feature of the site is an inside look at student costuming projects. I can't speak for you but I had never had to do anything like this. A sample is shown in the image at right. Kaitlin Fara's drape is on the left and Adrienne Corral's work is on the right. I'm very impressed with the level of craftsmanship, the result being very polished. It provides a striking counterpoint to a lot of costuming work seen on the web, much of the latter looks as though it has been glued together.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/la-bricoleuse-a-costuming-blog/feed/ 11 Analysis of a knock off -what designers must know http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/analysis-of-a-knock-off-what-designers-must-know/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/analysis-of-a-knock-off-what-designers-must-know/#comments Tue, 25 Oct 2011 23:53:15 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10219 discussed it before, a rendition will hardly resemble the source of inspiration if one's materials are not compatible et cetera. Anyway, no criticism of its maker is intended but that the item is critiqued makes this a sensitive topic. However regretfully, I can only post it in the forum. Looking forward to your comments. ]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/analysis-of-a-knock-off-what-designers-must-know/feed/ 5 Competitive Analysis http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/competitive-analysis/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/competitive-analysis/#comments Sat, 10 Sep 2011 00:20:09 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9995 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/competitive-analysis/feed/ 20 The great cap sleeve debate pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-great-cap-sleeve-debate-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-great-cap-sleeve-debate-pt-2/#comments Sat, 30 Jul 2011 00:15:45 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9818 This post has been amended 7/30/11 Thanks for your many comments in response to part one. I was unable to respond more promptly due to a spotty internet connection over the past two days. Kate mentions in comments (and this post was accordingly amended) that she thinks the confusion arises at L's company based on the description and instruction of an "inset cap sleeve" found in Metric Pattern Cutting, page 108/109 of the 1997 edition (see image below). She also mentions that Shoben's book shows much the same and Donna mentions that Armstrong does as much. Counterpoint and contradiction arises with Nowak's mention that Aldrich's children's wear book (pg. 109, 3rd edition) illustrates a cap sleeve to be like the fitted short sleeve. Kate further suggests that a straight hemmed cap sleeve seems to be more typical in the UK, perhaps because Aldrich and Shoben are used almost exclusively there. So it would seem the definition of a cap sleeve could largely be regional. amended_aldrich_shoben_cap_sleeve]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-great-cap-sleeve-debate-pt-2/feed/ 11 The great cap sleeve debate http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-great-cap-sleeve-debate/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-great-cap-sleeve-debate/#comments Wed, 27 Jul 2011 21:22:40 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9799 favorite_shirt_capped_sleeveSays L who works for a sporting goods manufacturer:
We love your site here at work. Can you settle a debate on cap sleeves, both woven and knit? Our senior is an amazing patternmaker, we're just not all on the same page. Our senior insists that cap sleeves be drafted as in Aldrich's pattern book by spreading from the cap and having a straight line at the hem. Our samples are coming in with sleeves that wing out at the hem. Our senior is strictly adhering to this method and thinks that the hem of a cap sleeve should NEVER be curved. However, when we look at our sample and manipulate it on the form, we see that this would be a simple solution. Please please please help us! We're waiting with bated breath for this post, then we're gonna print it and plaster it all over our office. Just kidding!
This is what I wrote to L:
Which Aldrich book is this? And which page of which edition? I'm not finding it. I didn't know it was possible to have a capped sleeve with a straight hem. I'm rather partial to cap sleeves (so I have a few personal patterns with them). I think they're flattering and more comfortable than the traditional short sleeve. None of my cap sleeves have the straight hem.
So now it's your turn to either confirm or deny any and everything I've said.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-great-cap-sleeve-debate/feed/ 18 How designing is like writing http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-designing-is-like-writing/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-designing-is-like-writing/#comments Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:51:32 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9625 this video is the best example she's ever seen of how to pitch an agent. Or rather, you first get to see how not to pitch an agent. I can't count how many designers have pitched me exactly like the bad examples. You can't pitch a service provider, sales rep or buyer the way you would a consumer. Here are better suggestions. Switching gears, many new writers (designers) have the idea that all they have to do is come up with a great story line (sketches) and a big publisher (manufacturer) will swoop in with their cape to give them an advance (royalties) and make the book (line) a bestseller (Vogue cover). In real life, the publisher (contractor) is only responsible for printing and distributing the book (cut and sew sale ready products). The author (designer) is responsible for writing a book (designing and producing a line) that resonates with consumers and to market it effectively.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-designing-is-like-writing/feed/ 16