Fashion Incubator » Glossary http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Fri, 10 Feb 2012 19:36:44 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 en hourly 1 Why isn’t women’s clothing sized like men’s? pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-isn%e2%80%99t-women%e2%80%99s-clothing-sized-like-men%e2%80%99s-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-isn%e2%80%99t-women%e2%80%99s-clothing-sized-like-men%e2%80%99s-pt-2/#comments Tue, 03 May 2011 21:29:18 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9350 Why isn’t women’s clothing sized like men’s?. I'll open by saying I was hoping visitors would more fully develop the idea of why men's clothing is sold by number (mentioned indirectly by Chris, Nowaks, Alison, Matthew and Helena) so we could see why it is more challenging to do the same for women. Many believe men have it easier because numbers are used to indicate their sizing. This is true and false but because is the operative word here. Men's pants can be sold by numbers (waist and inseam) because the hip dimensions of men's bodies (relative to waist size), is more easily predicted. It is because of their anatomy that numbers indicating hip measure is not needed to sell their pants. This is not true for women. Women's waist to hip difference can range from 12" difference to the waist being several inches larger than the hips. So, the plea for women's sizes to be sold like men's is only similar if men's pants were also sold by waist, inseam and hip. Since they are not, you can multiply the proverbial 99 sizes to get on the order of 300 sizes -duly noted are objections by Alison and others that makers aren't required to produce all sizes. This is likewise true of men's shirts (nod to Alison, Matthew). Men's shirts can be sold by neck size and sleeve length because there is a more predictable relationship between men's neck sizes and their chest girth. Like pants, these characteristics are also not true of women's bodies. I'll cut to the chase because being argumentative isn't helping matters; we all know that something must be done and we intuit that something can be done. Manufacturers should be more descriptive. To illustrate some possibilities, I'm using Marguerite's line as an example, I have one of her outfits, not the one shown but I love it. I made up these dimensions so I'm responsible for certain errors and omissions!: ivy_reed_sizing_example]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-isn%e2%80%99t-women%e2%80%99s-clothing-sized-like-men%e2%80%99s-pt-2/feed/ 14 The 13 different kinds of samples http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-13-different-kinds-of-samples/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-13-different-kinds-of-samples/#comments Tue, 19 Apr 2011 00:38:16 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9231 it does not mean you will need to have all of these kinds of samples produced. There is also quite a bit of overlap depending on your operation. By way of example are fit samples. If you're managing your product development and having samples made from your patterns, your fit samples are the same thing as protos and would be fitted during the design phase. However, if you are outsourcing to a full package contractor, fit sampling might happen just before production. If you manage well, the different sample types can serve multiple purposes. For example, ideally your proto (prototype sample) is a fit sample and a sew by (pre-production) sample and maybe even a photo sample.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-13-different-kinds-of-samples/feed/ 11 Curvy does not mean plus sized http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/curvy-does-not-mean-plus-sized/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/curvy-does-not-mean-plus-sized/#comments Thu, 31 Mar 2011 22:41:19 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9097 skinny_courtneyIf you need to catch up, the answer to yesterday's quiz (and part two) is woman A is curviest and now I'm going to tell you why. Actually, I'll prove it using the least likely of models -that of Courtney Love who is famously thin. By the way, this all came about because The Sartorialist found himself in hot water over his use of the term "curvy". It was cause for much ire and outrage on the web. Scott asks:
Is there a minimum degree of curviness to be considered "curvy"?
To which I'd say, yes there is and I'm so glad you asked. The technical definition of curvy refers to a waist-hip differential of .75 . For example, a woman with a 36" hip is curvy if her waist is 27" or less. This is a nine inch difference but does not hold true for all dimensions because curvy is relative. It's math, not opinion. By way of comparison, a hip measure of 46" is only curvy if her waist is 34.5" or less, a difference of 11.5". Using my photo of Courtney Love, I drew a line to match her waist girth. Then I copied and pasted the exact same line at her bust and hip respectively. You can see there's quite a difference between her total hip and bust girths as compared to her waist. So, bone thin as she may be, she is -from a technical, industry terminology (but not marketing) standpoint- significantly curvier than your average size 18. It's too bad that her hat is in the way but the green bar of her waist length hasn't even reached the midpoint of her opposing breast. I know this is no comparison but I have another one further down using the examples of woman A & B from yesterday.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/curvy-does-not-mean-plus-sized/feed/ 24 Pop Quiz: Who is the curviest of them all? pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-who-is-the-curviest-of-them-all-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-who-is-the-curviest-of-them-all-pt-2/#comments Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:58:30 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9068 curviest_survey_resultsI am very pleased with the results from yesterday's pop quiz. Several of you noticed the distinction between curvy and "curvy". Good show, here's a gold star for you! Probably the easiest and briefest way to explain it is by paraphrasing one of my earlier comments,
[ ]all humans regardless of age, sex and size have curves; we are not rectangular boxes. Compare the curved lines of a hot air balloon. Its pattern pieces are undoubtedly curved. Much longer and gradual curves -sometimes appearing straight- but curved nonetheless. Now compare those pieces to those of a soccer ball. The pieces of the smaller globe are much curvier than those of the hot air balloon. My point being that from a technical standpoint, smaller figures no matter how slender are much curvier than large figures, the latter being much straighter comparatively.
And of course, I don't expect you to take my word for it. My next entry will explain why and provide ways for you to prove it to yourself. Oh, I almost forgot, this distinction is going to become much more important. There may be a collision between the popular culture definition versus the industry's definition so it is something you may need to start thinking about soon.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-who-is-the-curviest-of-them-all-pt-2/feed/ 0 Pop Quiz: Tucks vs Pleats pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-tucks-vs-pleats-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-tucks-vs-pleats-pt-2/#comments Thu, 17 Mar 2011 23:45:54 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9006 tucked_vintage_dressI have the idea people aren't going to like the answer to the quiz very much; like I said, wars have been started under flimsier pretexts. Let's focus on what we can agree upon. Judging from comments, no one would disagree that
  • a full length stitched fold is a tuck.
  • a full length unsewn fold (released) is a pleat.
The grey area is when it comes to partial stitching and partial releasing. At this point I had intended to write: "You can't pick up a pattern book that does not describe partially sewn folds as tucks" But no! I picked up Armstrong -the most popular book these days (note I said popular, not best)- and a quick look resulted in much sighing on my part because I see she is the likely culprit for today's ambiguity because she only shows fully sewn tucks. Worse, she hedges by describing them as "pleat tucks". The result? I have an idea from whence this rampant confusion has come.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-tucks-vs-pleats-pt-2/feed/ 11 Pop Quiz: Tucks vs Pleats http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-tucks-vs-pleats/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-tucks-vs-pleats/#comments Tue, 15 Mar 2011 19:21:16 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8974 pleats_and_tucksHave you noticed that "tuck" and "pleat" are increasingly being used interchangeably? I don't know which is worse; a tuck being described as a pleat or a pleat being described as a tuck. So the question is, do you know the difference? Why does it matter? Pray tell. I believe wars have been started under flimsier pretexts.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-tucks-vs-pleats/feed/ 17 POM: Point of Measure Codes http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pom-point-of-measure-codes/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pom-point-of-measure-codes/#comments Mon, 14 Mar 2011 21:47:54 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8965 POM_vest1smIn the process of writing a review of a book called The Spec Manual (I'll come back later and drop a link), I can't find material that I know I wrote at one point or another so I can link to it. In the interest of expediency, I've created this glossary entry. POM Codes are used to specify the measuring points of a garment or product. If you measure garments, you will need to have codes to indicate the location you measured at given points of the product. Generally there are no established standards for code abbreviations (with some caveats below) but some codes are in such broad usage as to be universal. You've seen these abbreviations on this site before, maybe you didn't know what they were. These are used so often that I do recommend you memorize them. These are the most common examples: CF= center front CB= center back SS= side seam HPS= high point shoulder TM= total measure Caveats: Some customers (department store etc) may specify POM codes. If this is the case for you, these will be listed in the vendor compliance manual they give you. Codes don't have to be letters, they can also be numbers. At top right is a sample vest from The Spec Manual that I am reviewing (next post).]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pom-point-of-measure-codes/feed/ 6 What are grade specs, grade rules and grade rule libraries? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-are-grade-specs-grade-rules-and-grade-rule-libraries/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-are-grade-specs-grade-rules-and-grade-rule-libraries/#comments Thu, 10 Feb 2011 23:56:14 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8650
  • Grade specifications (varies from general to specific)
  • Grade rules
  • Grade rule libraries
    • I will do grade specifications last. girth_rules_mapped2A grade rule is a designated amount a pattern is made larger or smaller at one given point in order to make it fit a range of sizes. [The "one given point" at which a grade rule is placed is called a cardinal point. The grading police will not come and get you if you don't know this.] In the illustration at right, there are grade rules placed at the (cardinal points) neck and shoulder juncture, the outside shoulder tip and midway down through the armhole. The illustration is only a visual example that shows how a manual pattern is mapped. A CAD pattern is graded at the same cardinal points of course but it doesn't look like this on screen. A discussion of grade mapping is in my book in the section titled A practical guide to grading starting on pages 170-175. Because designers are not expected to specify grade rules, there will not be a test on this later.]]>     http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-are-grade-specs-grade-rules-and-grade-rule-libraries/feed/ 10     Things you must know if you have a clothing line: garment measuring http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/things-you-must-know-if-you-have-a-clothing-line-garment-measuring/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/things-you-must-know-if-you-have-a-clothing-line-garment-measuring/#comments Thu, 18 Nov 2010 00:16:33 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8063 Refine My Line. Today's edition is about garment measuring. Specifically that you need to know how to do it. Case in point is a DE who describes garment sizing in terms more typical of spec sheets than point of sale. Ex:
    • Sizes: 25-31
    • Inseam: 34
    • Front Rise
    • Back Rise
    • Upper Thigh
    • Knee
    • Leg Opening
    Before I go on, do not, I repeat, do not list specifics of rise or flat across measures (as this firm did) for three reasons. First, what consumer is going to have the means to measure this point or know it off hand? They'd have to grab a pair of pants they already had and measure it as a point of comparison. And since it would invariably differ, they'd have to put the pants on and pinch up any excess (or mentally add to it) to see if it is commensurate to fit their bodies. And that's assuming they have a tape and the time. Most people don't really know their measurements and if they do, research shows that they lie about them. The best option is to use espionage for better sizing (pt.2).]]>     http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/things-you-must-know-if-you-have-a-clothing-line-garment-measuring/feed/ 11     Pattern grainline notation http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-grainline-notation/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-grainline-notation/#comments Thu, 04 Nov 2010 21:53:19 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=7980 What is a grainline? A grainline is a marking on a pattern piece to indicate how the pattern piece should be lain on the goods. Only rarely is it an optional item. grainline_weft_warpMost of the time, pieces are laid on the straight of grain or warp (knits are covered separately below). The warp is the long end; the side to side measure is fixed and is called the weft. At this point, many readers will nod knowingly and say you must lay pattern pieces on the straight of grain because it is the most stable grain but that's not necessarily true (no, it's not). You lay pieces depending on desired effects.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-grainline-notation/feed/ 9