News & Events
By Kathleen Fasanella on Nov 21 at 3:16 pm
In the Wall Street Journal, Rick Woldenberg was quoted as describing February 10, 2009 as National Bankruptcy Day because that’s the day when many of us will go out of business due to the implementation of the CPSIA Regulations. I’m dismayed at how little it’s been discussed online and in the news. I’m shocked that so few manufacturers know about it. Of the ones that do know, most think it either doesn’t apply to them or it will magically disappear or it won’t be enforced so they can ignore it. Come February 10th, a lot of people will be hit hard by reality when their products are returned or their financing is declined.
To recap, this law was passed (424 votes to 1) to protect children from unsafe toys after last year’s widely publicized recalls (by the way, recalls have actually decreased by 46%). What few consumers realize is this legislation affects more than toys. What few clothing manufacturers realize is this also affects them. Of the ones who do know, most of them think it only applies to children’s clothes. Other than apparel the law includes diapers, blankets (housewares), books, videos, computer and electronic products, strollers, cribs, car seats, and anything humans come in contact with in their environment. Our objections are not higher standards for product safety or even the costs involved per se. The problem is Congress wrote the law and forced the CPSC to implement it before the regulations were written. These regulations are not written by people who are familiar with manufacturing and thus, impose unnecessary burdens.
A source I’m not at liberty to quote directly (but you can read it here) for legal advice -although she’s an attorney specializing in these matters AND an environmental engineer says
Another issue is lead paint limit. This limit applies only to painted or similar surface coatings - which would probably mostly be zippers, zipper pulls and perhaps buttons. This standard goes from 600 ppm (now) to 90 ppm. This applies for all painted materials for consumer use - not just kids stuff. I don’t know enough about your industry to know if this coating standard applies to painted on decorations on clothing. But, at the very least, any components of finished garments are going to have to meet this standard.
Three brief points:
- Regarding the phthalate regulations (a lengthy discourse omitted for brevity) testing for phthalates is roughly three times the cost of lead testing. For purposes of comparison, lead testing is expected to be about $30,000 for a ten piece line in three colorways.
- The lack of available labs needed to absorb the dramatic increase of testing required. Assuming everyone had the money and time to do it, it would still be impossible without the facilities and inspectors to do it.
- The requirement of “third party testing”. For our purposes this means you cannot avoid legal liability by relying on testing results supplied to you from your vendors. No no. You have to retest everything yourself. See why it’s problematic that these regulations were not written by those with a background in manufacturing?
Initially, we little guys were feeling a bit put out that these regulations would affect us a lot more than the big guys who have more money. As it turns out, they’ll be hurting in ways we won’t because they are factored. Selling to big box stores is done through loans, so called factoring. On the manufacturing side, loans are extended based on the receivables (invoices) that buyers owe the manufacturer. On the other side, factors lend money to stores to buy the inventory. Factors are a sort of financial middleman. Loans are more than just mere money changing hands; loans are legal contracts. To have a legal contract, the actions described within them must be legal. For example, a contract to hire a hit man is an illegal contract because the act of murder itself is illegal. Thus, loans for inventory and receivables cannot be legally extended unless the goods themselves are legal. Without the CPSIA compliance guaranty certificates, they won’t be.
Since most of the products intended for February delivery are either already made and on the way here or are in the process of being made and few to none of the inputs were tested beforeheand, all of these items will end up in bonded warehouses or landfills because it is illegal to sell them even as seconds. Products made domestically are not immune, they’re in the same boat. A factor is not going to break the law and make an illegal contract so a retailer can buy illegal goods. The end result is there will be a whole lot less product on store shelves. Since there won’t be much to pick from and costs are higher, consumers can expect to pay much higher prices. Prices will be rock bottom on February 9th, but overnight, prices will dramatically increase. The anticipated losses go into the hundreds of millions of dollars. This is not an exaggeration. According to 2002 U.S. Census Data (the last year for which data is available) just considering small U.S. clothing manufacturers, their contribution to the economy is over 900 million dollars annually. Small manufacturers with fewer than 20 employees comprise 68% of total apparel manufacturing in the U.S.. This of course does not include the untold numbers of stores that will go out of business too.
The point is now, what can we do? In the forum we’ve been devising a grassroots plan that we hope to launch tomorrow. One of our members who is familiar with regulatory processes, is drafting a letter you can mail to regulators. You can call your congressman. You can write a letter to the editor of any papers you read, on or offline. You can post about this on your own blog, post comments on blogs you read and talk it up in forums you belong to. You even need to lobby your suppliers too. Ask them what they’re doing about it. They’ll be hurting too if we’re not buying sewing machines or CAD systems. Resolve to post somewhere at least once a day.
The problem we have is that this is a very popular law with consumers and legislators. Because it is so complex, they don’t know what it really means or what its effects will be. In the upper echelons, most of the high level organizations like the AAFA, The Toy Association and the electronics industry are lobbying against it. Their problem is that they are not the grassroots. That’s you. The vast majority of Americans think this is a Great Law, striking back at unethically made low cost imports and thus, legislators are leery of what high level representatives say. That’s why it’s up to you to talk to other consumers like you. We need for consumers to know that this law will put many of us rather than importers out of business at a time when the economy can least absorb it. They need to know that come February, many of the products they expect to find in stores won’t be there. I think consumers will start to get the hint once they start getting tickets for transporting their infants without car seats because they can’t buy them in stores. Considering the consequences, there is little doubt the rules and regulations such as they are, will be rescinded. The only issue is, will they be rescinded before they bury too many of us? This law represents the last nail in the coffin of U.S. manufacturers. Even I’ll be out of a job. Why publish a blog if nearly no one can manufacture?
As I said, watch this space. I’ll be posting with more actions tomorrow.
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 19 at 3:48 am
I’m pleased to announce Stuart Friedberg has joined Fashion-Incubator to write equipment and machine related articles. Stuart wrote three earlier guest entries about needle and thread size. Everyone in the forum is well acquainted with Stu and I’m delighted you’ll have the chance to get to know him too. His first entry will be published Monday.
Reminder: I’m going on vacation starting today. Posting will be sporadic. Email is best if you need to reach me.
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 16 at 2:04 pm
Now that the site has been all set up and is good to go, I’m going on “vacation”. We’ve scheduled our annual vacation a little late this year and as much as I’ve been pretending this wasn’t happening, my departure date looms. Yes I’m glad to be going but I dislike cold and wet and we’re going to a place known for its four seasons: Rain, Snow, Sleet and Hail. I am such a whiner. Vacation appears in quotes because as you know, any trip I take involves working one way or another and this trip will be no exception. You all get a lot out of my trips. Remember last year when I spent ten days doing research at the Library of Congress? I’d been wanting to do that for years. Anyway, with a fulfillment center and a cat sitter lined up, there’s nothing to hold me back now.
Eric and I are leaving for Brussels on Friday September 19th, to return Wednesday October 8th. We’re making a big circle, traveling to Paris, then Stuttgart, Rothenburg ob der Tauber (a favorite from childhood), then Prague -I’d always wanted to go but it was never a possibility; we never expected the wall to come down!- then up to Berlin, over to Amsterdam and then back to Brussels to fly out again. Eric has never been to The Netherlands, I think he will like it. In Paris, we’ll be attending the most famous fabric show in the world Première Vision and then Texworld which is considered to be for the more budget minded. In Stuttgart, I’m trying to arrange visiting at least two local universities with design programs thanks to Heidi’s help. Of course I want to visit their campus book stores! Heidi mentions the most popular German pattern making book will be translated into English this January and that it will be pricey, over 120 euros. And you think books here are expensive. Business-wise I don’t have anything else lined up (yet -feel free to make suggestions or sing out if you’re on our itinerary) until Amsterdam. There we will meet up with Diva Els. I feel very privileged to be the first of her U.S. fans and friends to be meeting her. We’re planning on doing a bike tour of the city.
2008 has been a banner year for international travel for me. Mexico, Colombia, Belgium, France, Germany, The Czech Republic (I still want to call it Czechoslovakia) and The Netherlands. On next year’s “vacation”, we plan to go to Asia, undetermined whether we go to China or India; whichever, the following year we’ll go to the one we missed.
Oh! Speaking of travel, don’t forget that coming up in 2009, you all are cordially invited to attend ColombiaTex in Medellin Colombia the third week of January. I think we have seven people signed up for that trip so far. I think it’ll be fun going that far as a group, leaving on the same flight and staying in the same hotel. If you’re interested in attending the sourcing show to find sewing contractors, fabrics and trims, sign up is here. Medellin is only a three hour flight from Miami and expenses are moderate. My five night hotel bill with taxes, security fees, room service charges and a cash advance ($40 USD) was less than $500. If you shared a room, it’s very affordable.
Now let me see if I can get up part one of a tutorial on adding a gusset to a pair of slacks…
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 13 at 5:05 am
Sorry to be late in mentioning this, we’ve been discussing this show on the forum for weeks and I keep forgetting that many of you aren’t members so you wouldn’t know. Anyhow, the regional wholesale Northwest Fabrics & Notions Show will be held September 19 & 20 -this Friday and Saturday. No, I have not been to this show nor do I know if they have exactly the kind of fabric you need for your clothing line. If I were closer and didn’t already have plans, I would be there even if I wasn’t looking for anything because we have so few opportunities to meet colleagues and network. Speaking of, there’s about ten people from Fashion-Incubator’s forum planning to meet if you’re interested. More here.
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 10 at 5:28 pm
Today we have a guest entry from Natalie who has a hand bag line called Sienna Ray and who recently launched at Project in Las Vegas. Thanks Natalie!
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The idea to take part in the recent Project in Las Vegas was not just an overnight “let’s do it”, there were a many factors I decided to review before splashing out on such a large cash investment especially since my firm is Canadian. It was the beginning of June (two months ahead of time) when I set myself some main goals before I would commit to a trade show: centered around the two major staples that all my Spring 09 samples must be complete by the end of July (1 month before show) and I would commit to an approximate planned budget.
Once the goals were set it was research time and this was easier than I had imagined. I first spoke to all my current best “boutique” style retailers and asked which shows they visited, then googled and read up on each of the shows and of course found much direction from previous entries on Fashion-Incubator.com. I had walked Coterie, Sole Commerce, and D&A this past February in NY so already had a bit of an idea of what to expect at the shows… scarily remembering how slow the shows were and how bad it was that so many people in their booths sat there so bored looking! But I was determined that the best way to get my bags into the US stores was getting in front of them, and so far with no luck at finding the right US showroom for my line, this was going to be through a trade show.
Continue reading "Trade show review: Project 8/2008" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Sep 3 at 2:55 pm
Today we have the first of the trip reports from our members who attended the most recent MAGIC trade show in Las Vegas. First up is Robin who exhibited at Lingerie Americas (part of Magic) showing her Chic Peeks product line. Thanks Robin!
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I signed up for this year’s WWD MAGIC Show as part of Lingerie Americas. To my knowledge it was going to be a large show with at least “2800 buyers and over 100 exhibitors” according to my contacts at Lingerie Americas.
I flew in on the Saturday before and ran around getting everything organized for set up day. On Sunday, the parking was light and the traffic was easy with everyone running around setting up their prospective booths. It took me about 25 minutes to actually find my booth which should have set off my alarm, but I was so excited just to be an exhibitor at such a huge show… When I finally navigated through the maze of unionized show workers setting up the custom booths and delivering large packages, I realized my booth was on a lone hall with 13 other lingerie exhibitors. I ignored that fact, set up my booth and high tailed it to Wal-Mart to get some flowers and other items to finish my booth.
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 27 at 3:32 pm
Today we have a report from April Femrite of Naturally Bamboo detailing her experiences as an exhibitor at the most recent Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in Salt Lake City Utah. If you’re making products for the active or outdoor market, this information will be useful. Thanks April!
The Bamboo Tour - Outdoor Retailer Summer Market, Salt Lake City, Utah, August 8-11
For OR (Outdoor Retailer) I had a 10×10 booth at the Energy Solutions Arena (ESA), across the street from the main exhibit hall at the Salt Palace Convention Center. Outdoor Retailer has grown so big that it had to expand outside of the convention center and all of us new exhibitors got stuck over at the much less busy venue. I brought my sister, Jenny, and my part-time employee, Stacy, along with me for the 17+ hour road trip from Minnesota (our travels could be a whole other write up).
ESA was about a 10-15 minute walk from the front entrance of Salt Palace. Many buyers told me that they wanted to get over to see the new lines but could not fit the in the “hike” in between appointments. I heard that most ESA exhibitors signed a petition to the show about the slow traffic, but I didn’t see anything come around to me. My space was $2500 and I spent another $1500 to be a part of the Green Steps program which has special advertising for “green” businesses and for 500 branded post cards to be mailed to registered buyers. I honestly don’t know if the extra $1500 was worth it since I didn’t track who came to my booth because of the advertising. Below is a picture of my booth.
Continue reading "Exibitor trade show report: Outdoor Retailer 8/2008" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 22 at 2:46 pm
Happy Friday! I imagine traffic will be a little lighter next week with so many headed off to Las Vegas. I plan to limit posting to light topics so people will have an easier time of catching up when they get back. Have any ideas you’d like to see for next week? Or any week really, bloggers are always on the prowl for new source material. Anyway, we have a new crop of line launches from Fashion-Incubator members slated for MAGIC et al and it is quite exciting to watch these babies birthing. If you plan to be in attendance and want to meet with other members, go here to find the planned activities (dinner mostly I think) and jot down cell and booth numbers. I’m glad I never have to plan dinners at these get togethers. Getting a table for 25+ people at a reasonably priced joint (Vegas is expensive now) is always a challenge. I don’t know what the head count is right now but the thread is four pages long. By the way, most of the activity on this site isn’t here on the blog. It’s in the forum. It’s hopping all day long.
Don’t forget to get the secret password so other members will know you. And take lots of pictures. I won’t be there this time so I’m hoping for detailed trip reports from everyone.
Continue reading "Meet ups at Magic 8/2008" »
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 21 at 1:46 pm
How ironic I’m posting this on a Thursday. It just worked out that way; I only found out about this late yesterday afternoon.
Some days, I just feel so lucky to do what I do; I get to meet an incredible wealth of talent I’d never have the opportunity to know otherwise. Which brings me to this new blog I found called Not Enough Thursdays. The site is less a blog than it is an internal conversation between three pattern makers who are close friends (I hope they’re prepared for the deluge the web is about to send their way). Again, as an internal conversation between bi-coastal friends and like emails you send to close friends, spell checking wasn’t a priority so don’t judge it in that vein. The writers are Hannah, Carly and Jessie from Portland OR. I found it because Carly left a comment here yesterday. Hannah recently started working at Nicolas Caito’s pattern service in NY; they do patterns for Proenza, Wang and a lot of big names. Carly makes patterns for an industrial engineering firm called Terrazign Inc and has access to scads of cool toys not normally found in our shops and I’m envious. Jessie is a student at the Portland Art Institute and has an exploratory line on the side called Heating and Cooling.
Scroll down past non-work related posts on hiking trips with breathtaking photography to find entries on problems and solutions, guidance they ask and give to each other. And you can say I’m biased because Fashion-Incubator is frequently mentioned and I can’t deny I’m thrilled that my camel toe solutions (Hannah says they work!) are being used at a leading NY atelier but there’s more to it than that. So few pattern makers blog and I wish more did. Hannah wrote an article about balancing patterns which was good for me because a lot of people have mentioned that or asked me about it and I never knew what they were talking about. So now I know what they’re talking about. And of course I was pleased that Hannah was spot-on in specifying that your back bodice pattern is smaller than your front (at right). It is you know and I get tired of arguing about it so yeah, I guess even the implied corroboration is also self-serving. In the end, it is really cool to read about the inner workings of other people’s jobs in the industry, people you don’t even know and find your work is still so similar with the same worries, problems and concerns. Hannah says she’s surprised at how many garmentos smoke around the piles of fabric they sell, which I’ve always said but nobody mentions it. She’s also surprised at how nice everyone is in the business. They eat their lunch on china with silver utensils everyday at work. Maybe I just want the word to get out? I get so tired of hearing how mean everybody is or how cut throat the business is but from what I’ve experienced, it’s students who can be horribly catty or people fighting to get in who are mean or who are mean maybe because they think everyone else is and that’s the way they should be too but honestly, I can’t think of any mean people I know who’ve stuck around. It’s no different from any other business.
I find Carly’s fashion entries interesting too. Like I said, with so few pattern makers blogging, you have no idea of the styles we find interesting. She picks the sort of thing I would, each represents a drafting challenge. Here’s a very cute dress she made that I think would be very marketable. Again, we see things from a patterning sense. Her construction shown in other projects appears to be immaculate.
Do drop in and say I said hello.
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By Kathleen Fasanella on Aug 15 at 2:56 pm
Goodie goodie gum drops, it’s another edition of News From You. If you’re new to these parts, News From You is an ongoing series best described as an eclection of news, the weird, the arcane and the downright useless of interest to F-I infovores. Send your submissions to News From You.
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I’m pleased to announce that Renae Hartson’s line, Bodyworks Apparel was featured in the August edition of Apparel. Feel free to congratulate her here or trot over to the thread on the forum. Congratulations Renae, I know you’ve worked hard for this.
Speaking of, the magazine is seeking nominations for Apparel’s annual All-Star Awards:
Apparel’s All-Star Awards recognize apparel retailers, brands and manufacturers that stand out for their achievements in innovation, growth, management and corporate goodwill. Award-winning companies are announced at Apparel’s Tech Conference, held Nov. 5-6 in New York City, and their success stories are shared in the December issue of Apparel Magazine.
To nominate a company, fill out the form here (pdf) and return it to us by August 25th. (If your company is an apparel retailer, brand or manufacturer, you are welcome to nominate your own company. Vendors to the apparel industry are not eligible to be nominated, but may nominate their customers.)
My choice for nominee is here.
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I thought this link that JC sent was a riot. It’s an eBay listing for a woman’s blouse factory. Definitely overpriced with a “Buy it now” price of $50,000.
Continue reading "News from you 8/15/2008" »
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