Fashion Incubator » Patterns http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Fri, 10 Feb 2012 19:36:44 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 en hourly 1 Form, fit & function that won’t break the bank http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/form-fit-function-that-wont-break-the-bank/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/form-fit-function-that-wont-break-the-bank/#comments Fri, 10 Feb 2012 02:02:29 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10823 alvaform_features_smI'm pleased to announce that Alvanon has launched a new line of dress forms called AlvaForm Studio. The price of these forms are gentle on your pocketbook but certain to please anyone who has coveted one of their elite quality forms. And, this is the first official announcement -we got the exclusive on it. Yay us! In keeping with the exclusivity of this advance notice (it won't be announced to the public for another three weeks), the forms are 30% off. I don't know how long that deal will last but I'll amend this entry when I know. Okay, now for features. Gee, I'm not sure where to start, this being such a radical departure from anything else available in the market. I'll start by itemizing the anatomically correct shape features that are unique to this product, refer to image at right (larger image).
  1. First we have a clavicle bump. Yay.
  2. The bust is a more rounded normal shape (I'll provide a comparison further down so you can appreciate the difference). The underside of the bust is fuller instead of coming to an abrupt 50's style bullet bra apex as is typical of other forms.
  3. The sternum between the breasts is taped for clear delineation, aiding in customary underwire placement.
  4. The bust is shaped with a princess line down the center and a dart off to either side.
  5. As with other forms, the cover is hand sewn along the side seam -but this one is much flatter. No more unsightly ridges. Can't speak for you but I find those ridges somewhat annoying.
  6. The form has a belly button; invaluable for aligning lower slung waistbands or crop tops. She also has a pronounced belly like real people do with a noticeable depression below just before the normal bifurcation.
  7. The outer front thighs are curved outward, again, just like real people. At the same time, the back side of the thigh is curved inward.
If you haven't guessed by now, this form was sculpted -based on real humans.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/form-fit-function-that-wont-break-the-bank/feed/ 14 Is a CAD rental and training business viable? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/is-a-cad-rental-and-training-business-viable/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/is-a-cad-rental-and-training-business-viable/#comments Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:28:47 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10768 a question on LinkedIn I thought to answer here since more people might find it useful (I don't know if that link will work for you unless you belong to that group). Anyway, the individual in question (Michelle) said (paraphrased and snipped):
I want to start a business where young designers can rent time on CAD software and equipment that I will buy. I think there is a need for this kind of studio - there are many young designers coming straight out of school who could benefit from CAD software. Has anyone heard of this kind of business? Is there an existing business model I could learn from? If this kind of CAD studio were available in your area at an affordable rate, would you be interested in the services? What kind of needs would you expect this studio to meet? I am interested in any kind of feedback or information you can offer.
I think this could be a viable business but I also think the focus needs to change somewhat. My first approach would be to ask CAD trainers one simple question: Who wants to use CAD systems? The answer is businesses. Meaning, there is a mismatch between your mission and the market. I completely agree it would be awesome to provide CAD access to independent designers but most of them need hard patterns because their lots are so small. Also, while they may have acquired some training in school, there's a big gap between school vs good production patterns to say nothing of knowing how to grade them. I'm not saying you shouldn't provide access to them -you should- only that CAD access alone won't pay the bills. What will pay the bills is training.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/is-a-cad-rental-and-training-business-viable/feed/ 14 Pop Quiz: grading necklines pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines-pt-2/#comments Wed, 18 Jan 2012 00:34:14 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10739 the first entry and the side jaunt (what does a 1" grade mean?), I'm not sure we have a clear explanation for the apparent contradiction. Specifically the contradiction is: If we only grade the neckline a total of .5" for a 1" grade, how come we don't grade the neckline an inch for a 2" grade? [Informal (unscientific) polling shows we usually grade the neck 3/4" for a 2" grade, 1/2" for a 1" grade.] Some suggested ideas were as follows (mostly paraphrased, please correct me if I misquote, mis-attribute or misinterpret what you said): Theresa said 3/4" is used for a wider demographic because one is using SML instead of 6-16 etc. You know, there is some validity here. I take this to mean this is a way of refining the grade, to tweak it with a semblance of fit to one's customer rather than an across the board, gross increase. This seems just as likely as any other theory. Katyrenee said it amounted to "just because", that we do it this way because it works (for whatever reason) instead of blindly following a rule. I like this too, another good theory. Brina said the neck increase should be relative, not absolute -using the example of grading from a M to an XL. At first I wasn't sure what she meant as the amount of grade applied to an area is relative (explained in the second post) but I think I get it now. It brought to mind an ongoing argument I've been having with Cooklin's grading book -yes, I argue with inanimate objects since Cooklin is now deceased and couldn't be compelled to leave the piano (and wine and women) long enough to discuss it with me and for which I do not blame him, my being generally quarrelsome. Pg 25 of my copy has scrabbled sketches with a lot of notation to include exclamation! points! such as "F&G do not equal D!" , "D-(F+G)=8%!"and "D=25%, F+G=17%, E=12.5%!" This of course is totally aside from the fact that I am in complete agreement with him that the front should get 62.5% of the grade and the back 37.5% of it but I don't know anybody who grades like that (anymore). Which is because your front is bigger than your back (yes it is, yes.it.is). Which is in sum, kind of sort of what Brina was saying drawn out to its logical conclusion. I think. Either that or I am too liberal in my attempts to inject a little fun into a normally dry discussion.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines-pt-2/feed/ 13 What does a 1″ or 2″ grade mean? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-does-a-1-or-2-grade-mean/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-does-a-1-or-2-grade-mean/#comments Thu, 12 Jan 2012 23:33:01 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10697 Pop Quiz: grading necklines -and as it has come up before, I thought to dispense with it for once and all time. Namely, what do we mean when we say we have a 1 or 2 inch grade (or however much)? This is not so easily summarized because it seems ambiguous if one doesn't understand the underlying references. I'll try to explain the primary tenets of grades which are:
  1. A grade describes sizing changes for the major fitting attribute only.
  2. Application of the grade is proportionate.
  3. Grading is a logarithmic scale. Or should be.
Defines major fitting attribute: Generally, when we say something has a 1" grade, we mean that the major or defining attribute of the garment will grow or shrink that amount. If the item is a blouse, it is understood that the bust measure will grow or shrink 1". If the item is a pant, it is understood that either waist or hip is the primary fitting attribute. It is also possible they both are, it depends on the company.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-does-a-1-or-2-grade-mean/feed/ 8 Pop Quiz: Grading necklines http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines/#comments Tue, 10 Jan 2012 00:02:49 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10684 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines/feed/ 23 Pattern puzzle: Scarf pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf-pt-2/#comments Sat, 17 Dec 2011 00:15:43 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10557 yesterday's challenge. Without further ado, here is the scarf laid flat: secret_scarf_pattern_puzzlept2 The designer of record is Vionnet -who else? I found this item courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum. This is how they describe the piece:
Madeleine Vionnet was a consummate technician, particularly known for her innovative use of the bias cut, mathematically precise construction, and use of geometric forms. Often interpreted in a rectangular form, Vionnet instead renders the outline of three stepped quadrilateral forms--2 squares and a central parallelogram--in a bias cut to give this scarf a highly unique shape. Its irregular form, with only one seam on each side, is an example of her economy of cut. The abstract shape, textural fagotting and bright color combination, reversed on the opposite side, give the piece a lively presence.
]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf-pt-2/feed/ 41 Pattern Puzzle: Scarf http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf/#comments Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:29:03 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10561 secret_scarf_pattern_puzzleIt is a long story how I happened to come upon this scarf but I will tell all tomorrow when I make a (small) announcement. I would tell you the name of this scarf's designer but then you'd just look it up and figure out the trick of it. Of course, I'm sure quite of you already know who designed this scarf being so much more fashiony than me but I'll ask you to refrain from spilling the beans. The question is, what does this pattern look like? If it makes you feel any better, I didn't put much thought into it because it looked too complex. I cheated and saw the pattern. Still, being the mean person that I am, I'm going to ask you to put your best effort into figuring out what this pattern looks like. Again, so much of the time I think something is complex and you guys figure it out right away. Things I think are easy, hardly anyone gets. [Then again, I am the woman who can more easily rewire a house or rebuild a computer than turn on the TV...] On the other hand, even after seeing a photo of this scarf laid flat, the pattern is still surprisingly complex. For tomorrow, I hope to have a version of what I think this looks like. For now, I have to figure out how it is smushed into itself because that is not obvious from the photo. Have fun!]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf/feed/ 10 A homeless coat pattern http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-homeless-coat-pattern/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-homeless-coat-pattern/#comments Tue, 13 Dec 2011 23:24:29 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10537 carols_hcoat_image[This post has been amended, the problem is resolved. The pdf download is now available.] This post should have gone up well over a week ago but it's been one thing after another -which I'll tell you about later and hopefully someone can help solve a recurring problem (amended, since resolved). Carol Kimball and Carol Phillips (they refer to themselves as the Carols so I will too) designed a simple coat pattern that can be used to make coats for the homeless. The hooded coat folds up at the bottom when sleeping to keep the feet warm and it has sizable inside pockets that can be used to place insulation or belongings. For now, you can get the instructions on how to make the pattern and how to sew it on their site. You are encouraged to freely distribute their pattern and instructions provided it is not sold and credit attributed. I'm sure they'd also like to know if you make any so do write them. With the intent of making this easier to distribute, I created the pattern in StyleCAD. If you have access to the software, you can download the file. There is an AutoCad version (dxf) or even, a pdf download of this pattern (40 pgs, >120kb) if you don't want to make your own. We were trying to convert the CAD file into pdf so it could be tiled for print out for people who had neither option. As it turns out, that is easier said than done. Jasonda volunteered to do the considerable work of it but it will be awhile. There are instructions on the web but they involve tracing one's pattern on letter size paper and scanning in the pages. That seems like entirely too much work especially since we already have it in digital format. I also found a site that offers a tiling service for oversize artwork but I haven't been able to get the uploader to work. So, if you have better information on how to convert a digital CAD file into a tile format for printing on desktop printers, that would be lovely. I have CS5 but it hasn't been much help thus far.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-homeless-coat-pattern/feed/ 24 Pattern Puzzle: Fashionarium paper http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-fashionarium-paper/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-fashionarium-paper/#comments Sat, 10 Dec 2011 00:42:58 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10525 fashionarium_paperFrom a new to me blog called Fashionarium comes today's pattern puzzle. The style depicted at right was rendered by Alexandra Zaharova & Ilya Plotnikov. This is just one of many pieces of eye candy in the entry. Our hostess Julia Stanescu, is the curator of treasures selected across the web, a bit off beat which may be owing to proximity. She's Romanian. I can't speak for you but I enjoy visiting bloggers who don't live in an echo chamber, endlessly re-selecting subject matter they find at arm's length. Julia is also the author of a professionally produced ebook on fashion illustration called Enrich Your Fashion Illustration Techniques -and it's very inexpensively priced at only $15. I'll have to get that once I get beyond stick figures... From another entry on her site, I discover a snapshot of art director Matthew Brodie who explains the process that went behind his shoot for the March 2011 issue of Madame magazine (story board and a journal the shoot is here). Not surprisingly, one of Galliano's pattern cutters was pressed into service. Some of the detail is just mind boggling. Anyway, I hope you enjoy my latest discovery. It's rather embarrassing actually. Julia's been blogging since... well, I don't know how long. None of her entries are dated but it's certainly been long enough to be embarrassed I hadn't found it before now.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-fashionarium-paper/feed/ 8 Review: Theory of Garment Pattern Making http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/review-theory-of-garment-pattern-making/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/review-theory-of-garment-pattern-making/#comments Wed, 07 Dec 2011 00:14:22 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10511 The Theory of Garment-Pattern Making, W.H.Hulme, has been very influential in my development. I have two of his four books with another on the way. I was lucky enough to buy the third with diligent searching. I doubt it would have been available for me to buy if the seller had spelled the title correctly. Which is by way of explanation that Hulme was (presumably deceased, I don't know) one of those seminal thinkers few authorities will tell you about, or know to tell you about (so how authoritative are they?). Hulme has affected the thinking of -surely- Aldrich, Bray, maybe Cooklin but no one that I know of on this side of the pond. At the same time, I'm not certain how much of what Hulme wrote really is new but undoubtedly, one truly great contribution was curating. He separated wheat from chaff to organize an archaic and arcane body of knowledge into an accessible format for study and analysis. And study you will if you get this slim volume.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/review-theory-of-garment-pattern-making/feed/ 15