Fashion Incubator » Grading http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Fri, 10 Feb 2012 19:36:44 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 en hourly 1 Pop Quiz: grading necklines pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines-pt-2/#comments Wed, 18 Jan 2012 00:34:14 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10739 the first entry and the side jaunt (what does a 1" grade mean?), I'm not sure we have a clear explanation for the apparent contradiction. Specifically the contradiction is: If we only grade the neckline a total of .5" for a 1" grade, how come we don't grade the neckline an inch for a 2" grade? [Informal (unscientific) polling shows we usually grade the neck 3/4" for a 2" grade, 1/2" for a 1" grade.] Some suggested ideas were as follows (mostly paraphrased, please correct me if I misquote, mis-attribute or misinterpret what you said): Theresa said 3/4" is used for a wider demographic because one is using SML instead of 6-16 etc. You know, there is some validity here. I take this to mean this is a way of refining the grade, to tweak it with a semblance of fit to one's customer rather than an across the board, gross increase. This seems just as likely as any other theory. Katyrenee said it amounted to "just because", that we do it this way because it works (for whatever reason) instead of blindly following a rule. I like this too, another good theory. Brina said the neck increase should be relative, not absolute -using the example of grading from a M to an XL. At first I wasn't sure what she meant as the amount of grade applied to an area is relative (explained in the second post) but I think I get it now. It brought to mind an ongoing argument I've been having with Cooklin's grading book -yes, I argue with inanimate objects since Cooklin is now deceased and couldn't be compelled to leave the piano (and wine and women) long enough to discuss it with me and for which I do not blame him, my being generally quarrelsome. Pg 25 of my copy has scrabbled sketches with a lot of notation to include exclamation! points! such as "F&G do not equal D!" , "D-(F+G)=8%!"and "D=25%, F+G=17%, E=12.5%!" This of course is totally aside from the fact that I am in complete agreement with him that the front should get 62.5% of the grade and the back 37.5% of it but I don't know anybody who grades like that (anymore). Which is because your front is bigger than your back (yes it is, yes.it.is). Which is in sum, kind of sort of what Brina was saying drawn out to its logical conclusion. I think. Either that or I am too liberal in my attempts to inject a little fun into a normally dry discussion.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines-pt-2/feed/ 13 What does a 1″ or 2″ grade mean? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-does-a-1-or-2-grade-mean/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-does-a-1-or-2-grade-mean/#comments Thu, 12 Jan 2012 23:33:01 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10697 Pop Quiz: grading necklines -and as it has come up before, I thought to dispense with it for once and all time. Namely, what do we mean when we say we have a 1 or 2 inch grade (or however much)? This is not so easily summarized because it seems ambiguous if one doesn't understand the underlying references. I'll try to explain the primary tenets of grades which are:
  1. A grade describes sizing changes for the major fitting attribute only.
  2. Application of the grade is proportionate.
  3. Grading is a logarithmic scale. Or should be.
Defines major fitting attribute: Generally, when we say something has a 1" grade, we mean that the major or defining attribute of the garment will grow or shrink that amount. If the item is a blouse, it is understood that the bust measure will grow or shrink 1". If the item is a pant, it is understood that either waist or hip is the primary fitting attribute. It is also possible they both are, it depends on the company.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-does-a-1-or-2-grade-mean/feed/ 8 Pop Quiz: Grading necklines http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines/#comments Tue, 10 Jan 2012 00:02:49 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10684 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-grading-necklines/feed/ 23 Why larger sizes cost more or Size is nothing but a number http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-larger-sizes-cost-more-or-size-is-nothing-but-a-number/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-larger-sizes-cost-more-or-size-is-nothing-but-a-number/#comments Fri, 04 Nov 2011 01:44:55 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10278 a recent comment:
Please explain to me why lines that sell the exact same clothes in a 6 to a 20 charge more for the 16-20. In my example it is the exact same style and brand (pinup style clothing which tend to fit plus sizes well). PLEASE help me understand as I find it entirely perplexing!
The answer to this question may seem intuitive but the context is that she read Why existing manufacturers don't add plus sizes in which we said the costs of adding on a plus size line were considerable, on the order of adding another division. Since the manufacturer she mentions already tacks on larger sizes to the standard sizes they offer, I can see she has a point. It goes without saying that Lisa is new in these parts because she has not learned I cannot tell you the time without also explaining how to build the clock. Thus opens this discussion circuitously in which I explain that size is nothing but a number. ]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-larger-sizes-cost-more-or-size-is-nothing-but-a-number/feed/ 18 Getting a quote for children’s pattern making pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/getting-a-quote-for-children%e2%80%99s-pattern-making-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/getting-a-quote-for-children%e2%80%99s-pattern-making-pt-2/#comments Wed, 12 Oct 2011 21:44:56 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10169 the first entry so I don't know if people are mulling it over or what but Simone came back with answers to the questions I posed that may be similarly helpful for us to discuss. In reference to my point that she needed to have fabric samples before hiring, Simone said:
I have not sourced my fabrics yet, although it is not for lack of trying being far from the fashion districts. I'm planning to use very basic fabrics (lightweight wovens) in dye-able white. I will be dyeing my garments post production in shades that complement one another.
We call it garment dyeing and it is common. You need to shop for PFD (prepared for dyeing) fabrics. There are quite a few dye houses that provide this service. As far as sourcing that I mentioned in the first entry, one reason it is critical to be aware of industry schedules is because fabric shows are also organized by season. Meaning, you may plan to attend a fabric show in August (for example) with the intention of buying summer fabrics but there won't be much there because they're mostly selling Fall. Simone continues:]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/getting-a-quote-for-children%e2%80%99s-pattern-making-pt-2/feed/ 12 Patterns must grow longer based on girth pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patterns-must-grow-longer-based-on-girth-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patterns-must-grow-longer-based-on-girth-pt-2/#comments Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:55:48 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9787 the first entry, it is not universally understood that girth increases will require length increases in a grade. So, I made up one dress (1/4" woven gingham) and put it on both balls to provide a comparison. Below is a small version, see the larger file if desired. The black marks indicate 1". dressed_balls_comparison_sm It is not readily apparent owing to depth of field and differing positions when I took the photos but the hemline on the soccer ball is over 2" shorter than that of the football. Again (as this seems to be a point of confusion, this is the same dress on both balls. The photo above shows the two balls side by side to provide comparison but the photos were taken separately and then spliced into one.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patterns-must-grow-longer-based-on-girth-pt-2/feed/ 20 Patterns must grow longer based on girth http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patterns-must-grow-longer-based-on-girth/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patterns-must-grow-longer-based-on-girth/#comments Sat, 23 Jul 2011 00:34:44 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9769 comments to disappear on word press blogs). The particular context I recall is a discussion of trunk grading in European jackets so if you know where that is, let me know. The topic came up today in a discussion with a client who said her linings never fit well until she followed the "how to draft lining patterns" section in my book (pgs 154-157) -which illustrates this same principle. I meant to follow up long before now. I even bought the stuff to do it with. For a crude proof, I bought two balls as props. You have no idea how long it took me to find balls that met the specifications I had. Namely, that each ball had to measure the same length from tip to tip. We can call this total absolute height. Each ball measures 8.25" (thanks to Jennifer for the edit) Larger images are here and here. football_soccerball_compared Each ball also had to differ -hopefully dramatically- in girth. With the child's football and soccer ball above, that is readily apparent.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/patterns-must-grow-longer-based-on-girth/feed/ 31 The sizing police of children’s clothes http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-sizing-police-of-childrens-clothes/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-sizing-police-of-childrens-clothes/#comments Wed, 06 Jul 2011 23:44:11 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9688 CPSC has recalled sleepwear from Sage Creek Organics for violations of the federal flammability standard due to sizing. Yes, sizing. The recalled garments don't meet the "tight-fitting" sizing requirements -which you can find here. [The pdf is easier reading, there's also an overview of the regulations.] For the uninitiated, children's sleepwear sizes are regulated because tighter fitting pajamas reduce the likelihood of burns. But there are a lot of problems associated with regulating sizes; for example, which standards are being used? A cursory analysis of the CPSC's sizing standard suggests the agency has followed the ASTM guidelines (D-6192*) in spite of myriad complaints from manufacturers that the CPSC sizing is too small and I'm inclined to agree for several reasons. For one thing, there are many problems with the data set; it's very old, circa the 1920's. There is a newer data set (the CS151-50, my entries on it are here and here) which is itself dated but still closer to reflecting the increased girth and height of kids today. Comparisons are difficult but here's a chart comparing chest girth of the three which explains why I suspect the CPSC is using the ASTM data set. [The regulations published in the Federal Register describe but do not specifically cite a now withdrawn standard (D-5826), saying it was based on an anthropometric survey conducted in 1977 so I'm confused that its results mirror data from the D-6192 (09). ] sco_children_grading_chest]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-sizing-police-of-childrens-clothes/feed/ 21 Why pattern makers don’t want to grade patterns http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-pattern-makers-dont-want-to-grade-patterns/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-pattern-makers-dont-want-to-grade-patterns/#comments Sat, 12 Feb 2011 00:21:10 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8648 critical to also read Giving instructions to a pattern grader and all the links within that entry. Links to related material appear at close. Yes I know it's a lot of reading but this can be the solution if you're getting the run around or think you're being overcharged so it could be worth it. There are two possible scenarios and I will explain what each one means because they will be reluctant to tell you. The reasons a pattern maker doesn't want to grade the patterns they did make versus why they don't want to grade patterns they didn't make are different. Did make but don't want to grade: There are two basic reasons why they don't want to grade patterns they did make. Either you aren't ready or they aren't ready. In saying you aren't ready, this means you shouldn't be having patterns graded at this stage. I've had a lot of people come to me and want a pattern made and graded at the same time. A good pattern maker won't want to do this. You need to have samples made, fit test them, re-tweak the pattern maybe and take a few orders before you can justify pattern grading. It's all in my book. If they didn't care about you, they'd do whatever you asked.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-pattern-makers-dont-want-to-grade-patterns/feed/ 10 What are grade specs, grade rules and grade rule libraries? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-are-grade-specs-grade-rules-and-grade-rule-libraries/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-are-grade-specs-grade-rules-and-grade-rule-libraries/#comments Thu, 10 Feb 2011 23:56:14 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8650
  • Grade specifications (varies from general to specific)
  • Grade rules
  • Grade rule libraries
    • I will do grade specifications last. girth_rules_mapped2A grade rule is a designated amount a pattern is made larger or smaller at one given point in order to make it fit a range of sizes. [The "one given point" at which a grade rule is placed is called a cardinal point. The grading police will not come and get you if you don't know this.] In the illustration at right, there are grade rules placed at the (cardinal points) neck and shoulder juncture, the outside shoulder tip and midway down through the armhole. The illustration is only a visual example that shows how a manual pattern is mapped. A CAD pattern is graded at the same cardinal points of course but it doesn't look like this on screen. A discussion of grade mapping is in my book in the section titled A practical guide to grading starting on pages 170-175. Because designers are not expected to specify grade rules, there will not be a test on this later.]]>     http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-are-grade-specs-grade-rules-and-grade-rule-libraries/feed/ 10