http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Thu, 16 May 2013 00:39:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=355 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-style-22005-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-style-22005-pt-2/#comments Fri, 26 Apr 2013 00:16:26 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=12694 At long last -having been interminably delayed- comes the solution to last week's pattern puzzle. The upper bodice of which you can see at right. As I'd mentioned in comments, I didn't know how the neckline was going to present itself but this is what I came up with. With a cascade -as Ann correctly deduced- there are a wide variety of options. You play with the folds and fullness until you find something palatable and congruent with the style. Before I get ahead of myself, here is a list of image files which provide more detail on how the style was put together: Left side seam Close up of gusset at left side Full size front view Front bodice, straight on Three quarter view of front bodice cascade (from left) Three quarter view of front bodice cascade (from right) Right side seam Three quarter view of right side seam (from rear) Right side seam, skirt folds & gusset Back bodice Full back view Larger view of left side seam Another angled view of front And still another view of the front]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-style-22005-pt-2/feed/ 22 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-style-22005/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-style-22005/#comments Fri, 19 Apr 2013 22:40:02 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12664 The site feed has been broken. Let's hope this entry is delivered... This style amounts to an experiment I'm working on, it's being cut as I write so I have no idea if it will come out as I envision*. It is entirely possible it will come out looking rather horrid -as my last project did. I had done something incredibly stupid to it, I took screen caps of it as an example of what not to do so maybe I'll post it next week. It is as self explanatory as these things go. Your assignment, should you choose to accept it, is to draw a picture of what you think this style looks like. I will give you one clue, it is supposed to be a dress.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-style-22005/feed/ 10 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-q-twist-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-q-twist-pt-2/#comments Sun, 06 Jan 2013 02:38:38 +0000 Guest Author http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12306 this puzzler -quite a challenge! For a radical departure from our usual pattern puzzle solution, we have the designer herself to explain it all for us. Please, a warm welcome to Martha Palaza who will explain it all for you! -------- Yes, Marita and Natasha were correct in their assumptions. This dress -called the Quaver Twist- was designed during a creative cutting course at the Academy of Art University while I was working on my MFA in fashion design. The basic assignments for the course included 38 different schematics which were stitched and then placed on the form to create at least 15 different samples. The catch? This degree was completed entirely online so you can imagine the number of samples I have photographed for potential garments. Once the basic assignment was completed -in this case “Quaver Twist”, quaver referring to the movement of the fabric- we were required to create our own interpretation. Hence the full title of the design: “Quaver Twist Interpretation.” Although the dress may appear complicated, the process was quite simple. The fabric was marked according to the stitching plan below (click to see a larger image).]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-q-twist-pt-2/feed/ 10 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-q-twist/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-q-twist/#comments Mon, 31 Dec 2012 23:31:31 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12302 To close out the year, I thought another pattern puzzle would be in order. I was halfway tempted to post the solution as well because the solution still begs in depth discussion -I haven't figured it out yet even though I have the answer. This process has a proper name as designated by its originator but I regretfully omit it because you could do a search and find it. Actually, you probably could find it anyway but be kind and refrain from linking to it. Not that I wouldn't discourage you because you would probably have more insight to share when I post part two. For part two, I hope to hear from the designer as to method and process and also, why it is named as it is. Until next year then. I hope your holiday is warm and wonderful with those you hold dearest.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-q-twist/feed/ 7 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top-pt-3/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top-pt-3/#comments Wed, 14 Nov 2012 23:22:02 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12141 Here is the much delayed follow up of this previously two part series, do review part one and part two as needed. Today's entry is inspired by Lesley's post in the forum, in which she shows various renditions of this theme. I'm not going to give you fast pat answers, instead I thought I'd go through the laborious and multi step process I use to solve drafting problems -because I did draft this solution, I didn't drape it (a nod to those who say styles like this can't be drafted). The first step is analysis: what is the most salient feature of the style, does it look similar to something I already know? If not, how can it be torn down (reverse-engineered) more easily? I can't speak for you but the angle of that design detail is an unnecessary point of confusion (at this stage) so my first step is to change the angle of the top (below). Straightening the folds on a horizontal plane gives me a better idea of what is going on with the style.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top-pt-3/feed/ 6 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-escher-cad-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-escher-cad-pt-2/#comments Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:48:24 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12011 If we had a winner for the challenge, that would be Jennifer, followed closely by Lynn who wrote me privately. I used the instructions Jennifer left in comments to perfectly tessellate the Escher pattern. At right is the proof (there is also a larger image). Lynn's approach was different and closer to what I would have done if I hadn't have gotten the assist. I knew there would have been a faster way to do it mathematically but I didn't know the secret to doing it. Lynn and I discussed that; she didn't want to post a comment, leaving a link to her sample (pdf) because she didn't want to get chewed on for not doing it with math because she says she's not spatially inclined. Here is how Lynn explained her approach:]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-escher-cad-pt-2/feed/ 4 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-escher-cad-fun-for-all/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-escher-cad-fun-for-all/#comments Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:24:42 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12000 Making the rounds on the intertubes of late (HT) are laser cut wooden floor tiles inspired by Escher (right). You can buy these on Etsy. I was sorely tempted to buy them for a future kitchen flooring project but for two things. The tiles are only 1/8" thick and they are wooden -I wanted ceramic tile. So after gazing longingly at them for a time, I wondered if I could make my own ceramic tiles. I don't know if I can; I got a bit side tracked with the first part, that of making a pattern for the tile from which molds could be made. The cheater quick step to making molds would be to buy some of the wooden tiles but that struck me as dishonest (the wooden tile producer created their own pattern) and besides, it'd take all the fun out of making the pattern myself.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-escher-cad-fun-for-all/feed/ 14 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top-pt-2/#comments Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:48:12 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=11947 So, how many of you tried to work the last pattern challenge? I did some work on it. Kinda. But before I get to that, we do have a winner! who would get a prize! if we were giving those out! But we're not. Instead we'll ooh and aah and give Lena Merrin pats on the back [and maybe ten extra chances to win the next time we have a give away]. And then give her another challenge. That is usually how it works, qué no? As we were; a photo of Lena's sample appears at right. You can also follow the conversation on her site too. Her entry included a photo of the original style I had not seen before, I think it was the best yet so I also saved a screen cap of it for posterity. There is also a larger image of Lena's sample if you want a closer look. In the process of mulling over the challenge, I found a somewhat related style being replicated on another site called Immi Made, published by a German speaking woman. Only some posts are translated into English but I think you can get the gist of it if you understand drafting. ]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top-pt-2/feed/ 7 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top/#comments Wed, 26 Sep 2012 21:36:26 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=11889 In response to my request for new pattern puzzles, Cindy sent a suggestion for the "lilies" asymmetrical knit top from Rick Owens. The image at right is courtesy of Net-A-Porter (where you can also buy it) but I lightened it a little so details would be clearer. At the aforementioned site, you can click to select larger sections of the garment. I also found other photos of the garment elsewhere. There is a white sleeveless version and another view in rust. The rust seems to be best for picking out details. However -going off tangent here- I find the white and rust to be very unflattering because the top is too small for the models. I think they look terrible, all of the gathers are pulled tautly and its lost the character and appeal of the soft cowling. Whatever were they thinking? As an aside, since links have a way of expiring, I've archived copies of the images. My grievances aside, how would you go about recreating the effects of this top? Would you prefer to draft or drape it? Or perhaps a combination of the two? I think it is quite challenging.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-twist-front-knit-top/feed/ 18 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/stump-the-chump-pattern-puzzle-1-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/stump-the-chump-pattern-puzzle-1-pt-2/#comments Sat, 10 Mar 2012 00:02:53 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10996 yesterday's challenge presented by Traci in which she gave me a pattern and had me figure it out. Nobody was supposed to help me with it, that's the point of stump the chump. Next time someone sends me a challenge, I'll have to work on it in secret and only once I have the solution (or whatever I come up) will I post it for you all to play along, after which I'll post mine and everybody else's. Okay, so this is what I came up with: There are more photos of the garment laid flat, I only sewed one half of it in case I totally messed it up and needed another side as a re-do.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/stump-the-chump-pattern-puzzle-1-pt-2/feed/ 14