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	<title>Fashion Incubator &#187; Pattern Puzzle</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>Pattern puzzle: Scarf pt.2</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf-pt-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf-pt-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Dec 2011 00:15:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10557</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We had some very good guesses in response to <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf" target="_blank">yesterday's challenge</a>. Without further ado, here is the scarf laid flat:

<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/secret_scarf_pattern_puzzlept2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-10558" title="secret_scarf_pattern_puzzlept2" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/secret_scarf_pattern_puzzlept2.jpg" alt="secret_scarf_pattern_puzzlept2" width="506" height="270" /></a>

The designer of record is Vionnet -who else? I found this item <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80096704?rpp=20&#38;amp;pg=1&#38;amp;ft=vionnet&#38;amp;pos=13" target="_blank">courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum</a>. This is how they describe the piece:

<blockquote><em>Madeleine Vionnet was a consummate technician, particularly known for  her innovative use of the bias cut, mathematically precise construction,  and use of geometric forms. Often interpreted in a rectangular form,  Vionnet instead renders the outline of three stepped quadrilateral  forms--2 squares and a central parallelogram--in a bias cut to give this  scarf a highly unique shape. Its irregular form, with only one seam on  each side, is an example of her economy of cut. The abstract shape,  textural fagotting and bright color combination, reversed on the  opposite side, give the piece a lively presence.</em></blockquote>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>41</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pattern Puzzle: Scarf</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-scarf/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:29:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10561</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/secret_scarf_pattern_puzzle.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-10562" title="secret_scarf_pattern_puzzle" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/secret_scarf_pattern_puzzle.jpg" alt="secret_scarf_pattern_puzzle" width="332" height="434" /></a>It is a long story how I happened to come upon this scarf but I will tell all tomorrow when I make a (small) announcement.

I would tell you the name of this scarf's designer but then you'd just look it up and figure out the trick of it. Of course, I'm sure quite of you already know who designed this scarf being so much more fashiony than me but I'll ask you to refrain from spilling the beans.

The question is, what does this pattern look like?

If it makes you feel any better, I didn't put much thought into it because it looked too complex. I cheated and saw the pattern. Still, being the mean person that I am, I'm going to ask you to put your best effort into figuring out what this pattern looks like. Again, so much of the time I think something is complex and you guys figure it out right away. Things I think are easy, hardly anyone gets. [Then again, I am the woman who can more easily rewire a house or rebuild a computer than turn on the TV...]

On the other hand, even after seeing a photo of this scarf laid flat, the pattern is still surprisingly complex. For tomorrow, I hope to have a version of what I think this looks like.  For now, I have to figure out how it is smushed into itself because that is not obvious from the photo. Have fun!]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Pattern Puzzle: Fashionarium paper</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-fashionarium-paper/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-fashionarium-paper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Dec 2011 00:42:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10525</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/fashionarium_paper.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-10526" title="fashionarium_paper" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/fashionarium_paper.jpg" alt="fashionarium_paper" width="325" height="451" /></a>From a new to me blog called <a href="http://wow.fashionarium.com/" target="_blank">Fashionarium</a> comes <a href="http://wow.fashionarium.com/post/13539988946/24-paper-fashion-creations-you-cant-miss" target="_blank">today's pattern puzzle</a>. The style depicted at right was rendered by <a href="http://www.behance.net/Doberman" target="_blank">Alexandra Zaharova &#38; Ilya Plotnikov</a>. This is just one of many pieces of eye candy in the entry.

Our hostess Julia Stanescu, is the curator of treasures selected across the web, a bit off beat which may be owing to proximity. She's Romanian. I can't speak for you but I enjoy visiting bloggers who don't live in an echo chamber, endlessly re-selecting subject matter they find at arm's length. Julia is also the author of a professionally produced ebook on fashion illustration called <a href="http://www.fashionarium.com/" target="_blank">Enrich Your Fashion Illustration Techniques</a> -and it's very inexpensively priced at only $15. I'll have to get that once I get beyond stick figures...

From <a href="http://wow.fashionarium.com/post/12593197042/madame-paper-dress-and-the-man-behind-matthew-brodie" target="_self">another</a> entry on her site, I discover a snapshot of art director Matthew Brodie who explains the process that went behind his shoot for the March 2011 issue of Madame magazine (story board and a journal the shoot is <a href="http://matthewbrodie.com/blog/?p=276" target="_blank">here</a>). Not surprisingly, one of Galliano's pattern cutters was pressed into service. Some of the detail is just mind boggling.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy my latest discovery. It's rather embarrassing actually. Julia's been blogging since... well, I don't know how long. None of her entries are dated but it's certainly been long enough to be embarrassed I hadn't found it before now.]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Pattern puzzle: Vintage WW1 pattern pt.2</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern-pt-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern-pt-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2011 22:57:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10411</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/leather_sock_pattern.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-10412" title="leather_sock_pattern" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/leather_sock_pattern.jpg" alt="leather_sock_pattern" width="351" height="417" /></a>I'm pleased and surprised by the number of correct responses to <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern/" target="_blank">yesterday's challenge</a>. The answer is a chamois leather sock. I can never figure you guys out. Something I think may stump everyone, you figure out right away. Stuff I think is easy, few guess. I think it's me. It find it easier to re-wire my shop than to turn on the TV.

The full illustration is at right but you can find a larger version in Maud Churchill Nicoll's book, Knitting and Sewing: <a href="http://antiquepatterns.dreamhosters.com/NicollKnitting.pdf" target="_blank">How to Make Seventy Useful Articles for Men in the Army and Navy</a> (pdf), copyright 1918, 207 pgs.

This challenge was a roundabout way of introducing the resources available at the <a href="http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/" target="_blank">Antique Pattern Library</a>, a not for profit 501(c)(3). Their goal is to archive historical patterns and instruction; mostly needlework to include embroidery, knitting and crocheting. Other than free downloads available from the catalog on their site, they have a <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/antiquepatternlibrary/" target="_blank">yahoo group</a> with announcements of new additions as these become available.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern-pt-2/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pattern puzzle: Vintage WW1 pattern</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2011 01:17:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10405</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/pattern_puzzle_vintage_ls_ww1.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-10406" title="pattern_puzzle_vintage_ls_ww1" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/pattern_puzzle_vintage_ls_ww1.jpg" alt="pattern_puzzle_vintage_ls_ww1" width="435" height="223" /></a>Here's a fun pattern I found today. Can you guess what this is? The only hints I will give you is that it is from a vintage sewing book circa WW1. Its author wrote instructions for 70 or so most needed and appreciated items one could knit or sew for soldiers in the war. I could tell you the material of which it is made but frankly, I think this would be a disservice in that it would lead you on the wrong track. I will put that information in comments but my suggestion is to not read it.

In part two I will include all source information, there are interesting things in this book and the link where I found it.

It's your turn to guess away!]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-vintage-ww1-pattern/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>35</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pattern Puzzle: Spiral dress</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-spiral-dress/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-spiral-dress/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2011 00:57:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorial]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10382</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/spiral_dress_steptwo_sm.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-10383" title="spiral_dress_steptwo_sm" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/spiral_dress_steptwo_sm.jpg" alt="spiral_dress_steptwo_sm" width="338" height="316" /></a>For a change of pace, I thought I would post a pattern puzzle in the making. I don't know how well or poorly it will come out but who cares? One manages to learn something in the process. It has been a good exercise to practice my pattern making skills with <a href="http://stylecad.com" target="_blank">StyleCAD</a>.

I don't have a sketch of it either but one of you can create one from the pattern pieces if you're so inspired. If your pattern skills are such that you can't tell what it will look like yet, this should also be a learning experience for you too.

I started with a very plain block, a child's size 5 dress (hopefully this will become a real dress and then a present for my niece). I picked a child's dress for two reasons. One is to minimize fabric loss if this project ends up as a wadder (wadder=only suitable to wad into a ball and throw away). Two, I made one of these before for myself and it got very complex with darting and what not so this style won't complicate things unnecessarily.

<strong>Step one</strong>: Lay the front and backs together, marrying the pieces along one side seam.

<strong>Step two:</strong> draw the spiral lines. The lines will become cut lines, where the pieces will be separated from each other. Gee, that notching tutorial I wrote <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pop-quiz-notching-challenge-pt-2/" target="_blank">last week</a> will come in handy, eh?]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Pattern puzzle: Pattern Magic Style #53 pt.2</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53-pt-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53-pt-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Oct 2011 00:32:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10194</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/pm_2_full.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-10195" title="pm_2_full" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/pm_2_full.jpg" alt="pm_2_full" width="392" height="480" /></a>Continuing from <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53/" target="_blank">yesterday</a>, I re-worked my sample and got an improved result for my efforts. I've also uploaded side views if you're interested in seeing those (<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/pm_2_side.jpg" target="_blank">one</a> and <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/pm_2_side2.jpg" target="_blank">two</a>). I think it fits rather nicely so it is wearable in that respect. In the process of making this mock up, I figured out a few things and further down, have posted photos of the construction so you can follow along if you're of the inclination to do so.

Before I forget, none of these folds were tacked in place as was illustrated in the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Pattern-Magic-Tomoko-Nakamichi/dp/1856697053?_encoding=UTF8&#38;amp;tag=fashionincuba-20&#38;amp;linkCode=ur2&#38;amp;camp=1789&#38;amp;creative=9325" target="_blank">Pattern Magic</a> book. To my way of thinking, tacking the folds was the weak link so I wanted to get away from that to set the folds in such a way they wouldn't collapse due to my haphazard and impatient basting. To say nothing of having the folds perform considering my carelessness  with clothing, having to launder it et cetera. Maybe it's just me but I don't like to babysit clothes.]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>31</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Pattern puzzle: Pattern Magic Style #53</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-pattern-magic-style-53/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 23:17:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10179</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I've finally gotten around to playing with one of the styles depicted in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Pattern-Magic-Tomoko-Nakamichi/dp/1856697053?_encoding=UTF8&#38;tag=fashionincuba-20&#38;linkCode=ur2&#38;camp=1789&#38;creative=9325">Pattern Magic</a><img style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=fashionincuba-20&#38;l=ur2&#38;o=1" border="0" alt="" width="1" height="1" />. The style I selected was #53 on page 90 of the Japanese edition -which I bought direct from Bunka before the English edition was available. So if you have the book (in English) and want to follow along, I don't have a page number for you but it should be there abouts. Photo is below.

<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/pm1_53_illus.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-10181" title="pm1_53_illus" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/pm1_53_illus.jpg" alt="pm1_53_illus" width="503" height="500" /></a>]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>20</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Pattern Puzzle: mystery draft pt.2</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-mystery-draft-pt-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-mystery-draft-pt-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Aug 2011 00:02:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9862</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/solution_to_pattern_puzzle_hat_drafting.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-9863" title="solution_to_pattern_puzzle_hat_drafting" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/solution_to_pattern_puzzle_hat_drafting.jpg" alt="solution_to_pattern_puzzle_hat_drafting" width="416" height="365" /></a>The mystery draft is a HAT! Congratulations to Grace, Samantha and Colleen who guessed <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-mystery-draft/" target="_blank">yesterday's Pattern Puzzle</a> was a hat. Brian, Liz and Naomi came close suspecting a hat or related headgear with a visor.

Here's the back story (previously mentioned in the forum); this scan came from a Russian hat drafting book I acquired from a student (I will call her "Tony") who took my <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/production-pattern-making-class/" target="_blank">production pattern class</a> last week end. Tony works as a designer in the film industry in Los Angeles (a whole other subject; the job is less glamorous, more thankless and worse paying than you'd imagine). Since she speaks Russian fluently, she has a lot of Russian pattern books. Knowing I was obsessed about them, she brought ten of them, six of which I bought from her because it is almost impossible to order Russian books unless you speak the language. Compounding matters, the site that sells them in the US is Russian language only and has awful search capabilities. If anyone is interested in buying their own copy of the books I have, I will update  <a href="http://fashion-incubator.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=52059#52059" target="_blank">the forum thread</a> with links to purchase as I am able to confirm them. It's like flying blind since the character set is so different from English.

This book is keenly interesting because head anatomy (anthropometry) is dissected at length. First is an overview (below):]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>15</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Pattern Puzzle: mystery draft</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-mystery-draft/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pattern-puzzle-mystery-draft/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Aug 2011 22:29:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Puzzle]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=9857</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Put on your thinking caps people, can you guess what this is a draft of?

<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/pattern_puzzle_unnamed_book.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-9858" title="pattern_puzzle_unnamed_book" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/pattern_puzzle_unnamed_book.jpg" alt="pattern_puzzle_unnamed_book" width="609" height="477" /></a>

This is something you wear. Give it your best guess. If you don't want to wait for the solution to be posted tomorrow, you can find that <a href="http://fashion-incubator.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=52059#52059" target="_blank">here</a>. Good luck!]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>16</slash:comments>
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