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	<title>Fashion Incubator &#187; Personal</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>OT: Veteran&#8217;s Day</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/ot-veterans-day/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/ot-veterans-day/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2011 00:37:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Slavery or Bravery]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10310</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This message is definitely off topic but the friend who sent it to me thought it worth an airing in consideration of tomorrow's holiday. Its author wishes to remain anonymous to prevent any perceived conflicts at his job. For context, the author is a Hispanic 30 year veteran of the El Paso Police Department and a former homicide detective. 
-----------------
In the late sixties, thousands of young 18 year old kids received our "greetings" letter from Uncle Sam. It was the famous induction letter. Our rag tag group of friends known as the Purple Gang (we were given the name after showing up for a "poor boys" football league with our helmets painted Purple. One of our friends "borrowed" the paint from a neighbor and as it was purple and it was all we had, we showed up with purple helmets) received our letters as well. 

Some of us not wanting to be drafted, signed up with different branches of the service. Two of our friends joined the Marines, two went into the Air Force, four of us joined the Navy, and the rest were drafted into the Army. And so it was that in the summer of 1966 the Purple Gang was shipped out of El Paso to various locations around the world. For reasons I still don't understand, I was assigned to the Naval station in Charleston S. C. I was assigned to the U.S.S. Betelgeuse a cargo ship supplying nuclear weapons to the submarines in and around the Middle East and Europe. Some of the Purple Gang were shipped off to Vietnam, Japan, and the Philippines. The Purple Gang joined thousands upon thousands of 18 year old kids serving our country during the summer of '66. 

For the next two years, I traveled the Atlantic ocean shipping nuclear weapons, food, and ammunition to our troops in the European quarter. When not at sea, we were in our home port the Charleston Naval Ship Yard. And so it was that a young kid/sailor and several of his young black and Hispanic friends were made to sit behind the dividing white line on the bus. We rode with our black brothers and sisters, and were happy to do so. While serving my country, I was not allowed to drink from the only working water fountain in the downtown area. We were not welcomed or served in many of the restaurants in Charleston and if I needed to wash my uniform I had to wash it in the Laundromat used by my black brothers and sisters. Many of us were exposed to Asbestos on a regular basis, we would mix it up in buckets with our bare hands. We were subjected to noise levels that far exceed today's safety standards on a daily basis. Some of us were sprayed with Agent Orange and other pesticides. Many of us were subjected to horrendous combat situations. We fought, cried, played, and somehow we survived. But unlike the Veterans of today's wars, our coming home was not a welcomed one.]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Two holidays today</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/two-holidays-today/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/two-holidays-today/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Oct 2010 20:57:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=7829</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Is anyone working today? I ask that every Columbus Day, why should this one be any different?

<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/rooster_pullets.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-7830" title="rooster_pullets" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/rooster_pullets.jpg" alt="rooster_pullets" width="476" height="248" /></a>Happy Thanksgiving Day to our friends in Canada. What is the traditional menu? Turkey? We're partial to cheese and green chile tamales. Pardon my ignorance. Maybe it's goose? If you're short one, my back pasture has been attracting them lately. Those and cranes, including whooping cranes. Actually a few chickens too. Not mine obviously since <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/whats-been-up-with-me-for-the-past-8-months/" target="_blank">the bobcat got them</a> back in late April. My neighbor's rooster got some pullets and he's been very proudly showing them around the neighborhood. You can tell they're pullets even though they're big enough to be mistaken for grown hens because they still make baby-chick peep peep noises. So cute.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/two-holidays-today/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
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		<title>Resolve</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/resolve/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/resolve/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Aug 2010 23:36:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=7493</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/bob_me_and_mike.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-7497" title="bob_me_and_mike" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/bob_me_and_mike.jpg" alt="bob_me_and_mike" width="164" height="164" /></a>Sometimes being a blogger isn't a lot of fun. You have to be upbeat, funny, useful or what have you regardless of how you're feeling or what's going on in your life. I usually fake the minor things -a tax audit- well and don't mention it. Other times things feel too personal to share but then you lack an explanation for your silence.

I will be away for a few days. My uncle died. We were very close, he was a loving father and supportive friend to me and a grandfather to my son. He collapsed while moving some boxes at the food bank, a part of his ministry. It was very unexpected, he was very active and thought to be in very good health. I am doing as well as can be expected but not focused enough to work, dealing with family things as I am.

As much as I appreciate your compassion, I would be happier were you to resolve to call a loved one you've not spoken to in awhile, maybe for years. It would bring me pleasure and peace to know who you called today.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/resolve/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>38</slash:comments>
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		<title>What&#8217;s been up with me for the past 8 months</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/whats-been-up-with-me-for-the-past-8-months/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/whats-been-up-with-me-for-the-past-8-months/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Jun 2010 22:44:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=6997</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I've had a lot going on over the past <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">two</span> <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">four</span> <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">six</span> eight months with a lot of stress I couldn't talk about publicly until now. News is, I've moved <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">three</span> <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">five</span> nearly six months ago, hopefully for the last time. I'm back in Albuquerque again. I couldn't say anything because Mr. F-I had not given notice at work and some of his staffers visit this site. People in the forum knew. I'm <em>very</em> appreciative you kept my confidences all this time and I sincerely thank you. From the strike outs, you can see I've been updating this post for months.

I've been wanting to move back to Albuquerque for years. It'll be nice being closer to an airport and of course, <a href="http://pattern-design.com" target="_blank">gal pal Sal</a>. There's still not much in the way of apparel manufacturing in Albuquerque, some of the usual suspects are still around which is only good news in that they've weathered the economy -but not in that I'll get any work out of it. Sally doesn't work local either. I only did for a short time when I lived here before and called it a lesson learned. It's like anywhere, you only get respect in your home town after you're dead and dessicated.

We bought a place in an area known as the South Valley. A veritable real estate buffet, the South Valley is a hodge podge of trailers, mixed agriculture and animal husbandry with high dollar horse properties. Next door is a sheep herder. Behind us is some kind of fancy place, a whole compound. Don't know what they do but the clerk at Western Mercantile says to not make the mistake of using their driveway (it looks like an easement or street) or the property owner will become unhinged. Across the street is a trailer park. Amid the mix, the polite term is to describe our place is "fixer upper" but it's closer to a dump. Ugh. It has benefits though, the most obvious is a 2,100 sq ft shop building on the property. I have mixed feelings about that; I haven't worked from home in years so it'll be an adjustment. It also has a cute guest cottage meaning I can house two or three people who want to take classes on site (the move is why I said <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/production-pattern-making-class/" target="_blank">the last class</a> I did was going to be it for awhile). Hopefully I can start having them again in <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">May</span> <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">June</span> July. Before then, we have to <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">redo all the electric and</span> install decent lighting among incidentals. I have a class scheduled for <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">June</span> July with openings starting in <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">July</span> August. I supply a rigorous learning opportunity on the topics of your choosing (you can work after class as late as you like with the shop so close) a place to sleep, breakfast and lunch. And maybe dinner if you're willing to cook. Let me know if you're interested.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/whats-been-up-with-me-for-the-past-8-months/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>29</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Cutting too close to the bone</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/cutting-too-close-to-the-bone/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/cutting-too-close-to-the-bone/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:57:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5888</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm not proud of being a popular culture idiot, it restricts the quality of social interaction. In the interests of my betterment, I read <a href="http://jezebel.com/" target="_blank">Jezebel</a>. For example, I learned that a woman named Heidi Montag had <a href="http://jezebel.com/5451875/heidi-montag-my-main-message-is-that-beauty-is-really-within" target="_blank">ten plastic surgeries</a> in one day. I have no clue who she is or why she's notable beyond her apparent disposable income. One surgery was a butt augmentation. I didn't know you could do that. I'd been asking Santa for a butt for the past several years, having given up on the unfulfilled waist request but now realize I just need a heftier paycheck. Anyway, my attempts at polite cocktail conversation would normally go like this:

-----------------------------------
<em><strong>Hapless cornered party guest</strong></em>: Did you hear Heidi Montag got a boob job? She's an H cup!

<em><strong>Me, perplexed</strong></em>: Ah. Well. Really? Heidi? [looking around] Is she here? I don't wear an H cup and apparently you don't either. Say, do you sew? I'm a pattern maker...

<em><strong>HCPG interrupts</strong></em>: I think I'm going to be ill. Must lie down. [faints]
-----------------------------------

But now, courtesty of Jezebel, my convos will go something like this:

-----------------------------------
<em><strong>Hapless cornered party guest</strong></em>: Did you hear Heidi Montag got a boob job? She's an H cup!

<em><strong>Me confidently, thanks to Jezebel</strong></em>: Yeah, I heard. Boy, I wonder what her underbust measures and what her back to front measurement differencial is. Bras will be structurally difficult; maybe they'll use that spider silk to weave the straps. Did you know that pretty yellow is its natural color? Ounce for ounce, it's 10 times stronger than steel...]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>30</slash:comments>
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		<title>Two Thanksgiving Day Gentlemen</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/two-thanksgiving-day-gentlemen/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/two-thanksgiving-day-gentlemen/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Nov 2009 18:38:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5501</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/ohenry.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-5506" title="ohenry" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/ohenry.jpg" alt="ohenry" width="205" height="298" /></a> It's a day of traditions. Since childhood, my singular personal tradition has been to read this story written by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O._Henry" target="_blank">O. Henry</a>, master of the surprise ending. Imbued with great gifts, he lived a short and tragic life. It feels risky sharing it with you -but it is the only measure that comes to mind in sending my wishes that your day is filled with love and grace.

---------------------
There is one day that is ours. There is one day when all we Americans who are not self-made go back to the old home to eat saleratus biscuits and marvel how much nearer to the porch the old pump looks than it used to. Bless the day. President Roosevelt gives it to us. We hear some talk of the Puritans, but don't just remember who they were. Bet we can lick 'em, anyhow, if they try to land again. Plymouth Rocks? Well, that sounds more familiar. Lots of us have had to come down to hens since the Turkey Trust got its work in. But somebody in Washington is leaking out advance information to 'em about these Thanksgiving proclamations.

The big city east of the cranberry bogs has made Thanksgiving Day an institution. The last Thursday in November is the only day in the year on which it recognizes the part of America lying across the ferries. It is the one day that is purely American. Yes, a day of celebration, exclusively American.

And now for the story which is to prove to you that we have traditions on this side of the ocean that are becoming older at a much rapider rate than those of England are--thanks to our git-up and enterprise.

Stuffy Pete took his seat on the third bench to the right as you enter Union Square from the east, at the walk opposite the fountain. Every Thanksgiving Day for nine years he had taken his seat there promptly at 1 o'clock. For every time he had done so things had happened to him--Charles Dickensy things that swelled his waistcoat above his heart, and equally on the other side.

But to-day Stuffy Pete's appearance at the annual trysting place seemed to have been rather the result of habit than of the yearly hunger which, as the philanthropists seem to think, afflicts the poor at such extended intervals.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/two-thanksgiving-day-gentlemen/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Least favorite day of the year</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/least-favorite-day-of-the-year/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/least-favorite-day-of-the-year/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Nov 2009 23:28:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5491</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Just for kicks, I googled "vegetarian least favorite day of the year" and the top result was -do I really need to say this?- <a href="http://www.chicagonow.com/blogs/redeye/2009/11/thanksgiving-ill-take-a-pass.html" target="_blank">Thanksgiving really <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">sucks</span> for vegetarians</a>. Yep, it's the least favorite day of the year, no contest. I think most vegetarians fantasize about having the option of cowering in the closet amid the impending doom and dread of being a social outcast on this most sociable of family centric holidays. Or drink. Heavily.

Me, I've become quite fond of mashed potatoes and carrots. I miss green beans but not the bacon that is snuggled in there with them. Or in the case of passive aggressive relatives, it's smuggled; they think you won't notice. Really? Sans direct evidence, the tip off is wafting pork flavoring, not subtle that one. Then, invariably over dinner, someone charitably suggests that eating turkey is okay because it's like chicken, you know, poultry, meaning it's "not meat" leaving me with the oddest compulsion to stand and deliver a full blown  PSA, tapping the lectern as I go through powerpoint slides on the constitution of animal proteins. Like I said, social outcast -even though I do or say no such thing. By default, if you're a vegetarian, you're the party pooper -guaranteed.  That's why alcohol can be immensely useful to ingratiate oneself to the hostess except, my family doesn't drink. They have nothing against it but it's not a habit so no one thinks to bring any. So I am sure to.  I like to bring a variety that always <a href="http://www.winesofthesanjuan.com/index2.php?pageid=14" target="_blank">gets a giggle</a>.

In all seriousness my family is good natured about it. They've actually enjoyed things I've brought, enough to request a repeat performance. Such as my quinoa recipe. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quinoa" target="_blank">Quinoa</a> (keen-wah) is a highly nutritious grain, a so called "super food" with loads of protein. It is also a complete protein with all the amino acids your body needs. It has no gluten either making it ideal for lactose or gluten intolerants alike. It is versatile like rice and similar in texture to couscous. If you need a dietary option for someone at your table, here's my recipe best as I can recall it:]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>25</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Free access to the vintage pattern library</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/free-access-to-the-vntage-pattern-library/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/free-access-to-the-vntage-pattern-library/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Aug 2009 21:15:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4691</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/vintage_apron_pattern1.jpg"><img class="alignright size-full wp-image-4692" title="vintage_apron_pattern1" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/vintage_apron_pattern1.jpg" alt="vintage_apron_pattern1" width="402" height="297" /></a> Grace, Jess and myriad others send word that the University of Rhode Island has granted free access to their <a href="http://www.uri.edu/library/special_collections/COPA/index.php" target="_blank">vintage pattern library</a> which has over 48,000 vintage patterns. These include illustrations of the finished item as well as a scan of the quarter scale pattern pieces. Styles depicted date from 1868-2006.

Unlimited access starts 8/19 through 8/25. To access it, click on Login at the top of the page. The username is "guest" and the password is "pattern". Once you're logged in, select "search" at the top of the page to find something interesting. You can search by garment type, occasion, gender, pattern company, dates and keywords. The interface is kind of clunky and the display is inefficient so reading <a href="http://www.uri.edu/library/special_collections/COPA/Documents/CoPA_Help.pdf" target="_blank">the instructions</a> (pdf) first will be helpful. Be advised the site is optimized for the <a href="http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/" target="_blank">FireFox</a> browser. Supposedly you can't see much without it. You should be running FireFox anyway. It's free, it's safer, it's better, what's not to like? All the cool kids are using it.

I can't speak for you but I've long coveted the opportunity to browse these archives. There's several ways to gain access on a permanent basis. An individual can buy the 4 CD Set for $360 plus $15 for the user's manual. One can also subscribe to online access for $120 a year. Group rates are available too. I thought of organizing that but I don't know how many would be interested. A year's subscription for 30 users is $220; for 100 users it's $325.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/free-access-to-the-vntage-pattern-library/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>50</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Would you trust this pattern maker?</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/would-you-trust-this-pattern-maker/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/would-you-trust-this-pattern-maker/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jul 2009 20:40:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Intellectual Property]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4536</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I decided to write a statement of ethics after one of you wrote me. M, who provides contract sewing services, was burned badly after signing a non-compete. The business she worked for has ceased to exist in anything but name only but she's still tied to the contract and it's difficult for her to get work now. Based on that experience, she's decided she won't sign any more agreements. Because of this, I decided it would be useful for service providers to develop a written policy statement of integrity that explains the standards they employ with any client as a matter of course. Ideally, this would replace the NDAs entrepreneurs favor.

By way of example, below are the standards  I use in the course of conducting my business. I don't dare suggest anyone else should follow all of these standards to the letter because I'm rather strict but I'd hope others would follow most of them. As this is a work in progress, this document will evolve as my thinking becomes more solidified. Feel free to use whatever is appropriate if you think having a ethical policy statement would benefit your practice. Also comments from designers are encouraged. Would you trust this pattern maker?

My statement is comprised of four sections. 
<ul><li>My conduct with clients</li><li>Disclosure and colleague relations</li><li>Courtesies extended to former clients</li><li>My expectations of clients</li></ul>]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/would-you-trust-this-pattern-maker/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Silver City Vintage</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/silver-city-vintage/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2009 22:44:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Personal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quality]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4194</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As I mentioned earlier today, we went out of town last weekend at our favorite B&#38;B. The place is very unique; I recommend you select a room in advance if you can. If you're partial to cats, I recommend <a href="http://blackrangelodge.com/lodge_rooms.html" target="_blank">room 3</a>. It comes with a large vine covered balcony which is inhabited by a kitty named Tigger who I photographed <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archives/mostly_about_sustainable_architecture/" target="_blank">last year</a>. Tigger is very charming, she leaves "gifts". Saturday morning it was along the lines of <a href="http://whatjeffkilled.com/" target="_blank">What Jeff Killed</a> but not nearly so graphic since she ate most of it. Sunday morning it was breakfast in bed. Yes, she brought us <em><strong>a waffle</strong></em>. How's that for service?

<img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-4195" title="tigger_waffle" src="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/tigger_waffle.jpg" alt="tigger_waffle" width="360" height="284" />

Saturday we went into the comparatively bustling urban center -Silver City. Silver is really coming along these days. We window shopped and even bought a few things. There were some great thrift stores. Some things I just had to buy to show you. First up is this man's western styled suit, likely from the 70's.]]></description>
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		<slash:comments>19</slash:comments>
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