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	<title>Fashion Incubator &#187; Process Reviews</title>
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	<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com</link>
	<description>How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better.</description>
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		<title>Deconstructing a sewing class</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/deconstructing-a-sewing-class/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/deconstructing-a-sewing-class/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:41:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quality]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10022</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/archives-92-98-2005-2010/" target="_blank">mentioned on Saturday</a> that I was taking a class for home sewers for research purposes. My idea being, one can forget what people don't know. Gaining insight to what people don't know can only help me explain better to anyone regardless of skill.

Continuing with where I left off (see the comments to the previous entry), our instructor (Leslie) started with a list of what she called the seven deadly sins of a home-made garment. I'm not going to list those specifically because that's how she derives income but suffice to say I agree for the most part. Leslie's list of sins spanned three categories.

1. Design
2. Pattern
3. Execution
Note: she didn't sort them like this, this is how I analyzed the various types of sewing sins she identified.

The list in this context -spanning design through execution- was a bit unexpected in the context of my role as a product development  person. On our end, the three areas are mostly separate with accountability for each clearly defined -not one person in charge of it. Leslie's format differed because home stitchers are whole garment makers from  project inception and planning, through execution (and of course, they're  also fitting to the individual rather than a fit profile) so it stands to reason the sins wouldn't be separated by function or the separate individuals who do those jobs.

Here's one example I would categorize as design: what Leslie described as badly designed bust  darts (falling within a prescribed circumference range). In many cases,  this can be a design element; there are reasons a designer may want X effect  and it is mostly not appropriate for a pattern maker to question design elements with a designer (can get you in hot  water) unless it's a new designer (DE) who actively solicits one's help.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/deconstructing-a-sewing-class/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>52</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to apply interfacing</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-apply-interfacing/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-apply-interfacing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 May 2010 18:10:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Textiles and Inputs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=6682</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My head has been fuzzy for the past two days. Yesterday it was Wednesday and today, it's been the 5th of May for two days running. Do you ever have weeks like that?

A woman came to take a class with me 12 years ago. The week prior to her arrival, she'd spent four and a half days with a "couture" sewing celeb who taught her to apply interfacing by holding the iron in place for a count of ten. This I discovered when I put "M" to applying interfacing to  leather and contrary to my instruction (she was eager to apply the proceeds of that $3,000 fee) she insisted on the ten second count and of  course, the piece was shriveled and burnt beyond recognition. It looked like a pig's ear that had gotten too much sun. I saved  that piece for a long time, I don't know where it went now. Lately I've been reading that people still do this. The horror of it all. I thought it was an isolated incident but it would seem it is not. The very idea makes me shudder all over. 

If you consult industry interfacing experts -the <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/spesa_trip_report_kathleen_pt2/" target="_blank">people who make fusing machines</a>-, they'll tell you that applying fusibles relies on three things, time, pressure and heat. I'd add a fourth and fifth element, that of having the right fusible for the right fabric in the first place and the right tools. Of the <strike>three</strike> five, time is but one facet and not really the major one. Not when a fusing machine can fuse fabrics at 26 feet a minute. Even then, time is better calculated as during and after. It can take but a second to apply interfacing but it can take a few seconds for it to cool enough to move it. ]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-to-apply-interfacing/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>30</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What to do if a competitor orders your product</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-to-do-if-a-competitor-orders-your-product/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-to-do-if-a-competitor-orders-your-product/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Jun 2009 20:56:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Intellectual Property]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=4170</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This is part two of <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-to-do-if-a-competitor-in-asia-orders-your-product/" target="_blank">What to do if a competitor in Asia orders your product</a> whereby I pontificate on tear downs (competitive assessments), a much cherished activity by adults and children alike. How can you build a better mousetrap if you haven't taken existing mousetraps apart? Here's a case in point: the iphone. While the iphone is universally acknowledged to be the third most significant masterpiece of human technology (behind mastering fire and inventing the wheel), it is not perfect. Before stoning me for blasphemy, ask yourself this question: can it scramble eggs? I think not. Okay, so I'm being silly but you won't know the root problem until you do a competitive assessment and tear something down -preferably your own products first. I've written much about this in the reverse engineering series (<a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/tutorials/" target="_blank">tutorials page</a>) and this one on <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/copying_processes/" target="_blank">copying processes</a>. 

The fact is your competitor can buy your products anyway so you're better off facilitating the transaction than creating impediments. Doing so is working from a position of strength and confidence. Refusing to do so is acknowledging the other party is a threat. If they can get it anyway, it's better to have a record of the transaction in the event something untoward arises because it is illegal to copy another party's trade secrets. If you didn't know that you should read up on the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Economic_Espionage_Act_of_1996" target="_blank">Economic Espionage Act of 1996</a>. Using a trade secret belonging to a competitor is a felony, not a civil matter like copyright and subject to jail time and a fine of up to 10 million dollars. A trade secret is defined as "protected information" and means anything a competitor doesn't want you to know.]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-to-do-if-a-competitor-orders-your-product/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to know your patterns have been corrected</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_know_your_patterns_have_been_corrected/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_know_your_patterns_have_been_corrected/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Sep 2008 22:29:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Operations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Slavery or Bravery]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/09/how_to_know_your_patterns_have_been_corrected/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_know_your_patterns_have_been_corrected/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Are you a victim of a hanger fix?</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/are_you_a_victim_of_a_hanger_fix/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/are_you_a_victim_of_a_hanger_fix/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Sep 2008 21:20:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Operations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/09/are_you_a_victim_of_a_hanger_fix/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/are_you_a_victim_of_a_hanger_fix/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to work with a fashion illustrator</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_work_with_a_fashion_illustrator/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_work_with_a_fashion_illustrator/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 20:58:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contractors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Intellectual Property]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Operations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sales and Marketing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/08/how_to_work_with_a_fashion_illustrator/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_work_with_a_fashion_illustrator/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Rotary cutters, a guaranteed argument</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/rotary_cutters_a_guaranteed_argument/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/rotary_cutters_a_guaranteed_argument/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jul 2008 22:26:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Operations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Production]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quality]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/07/rotary_cutters_a_guaranteed_argument/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/rotary_cutters_a_guaranteed_argument/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>36</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Problem pattern maker pt.2</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/problem_pattern_maker_pt2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/problem_pattern_maker_pt2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jul 2008 23:09:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Operations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Production]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Slavery or Bravery]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sourcing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/07/problem_pattern_maker_pt2/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/problem_pattern_maker_pt2/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>I.D. and O.D.</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/id_and_od/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/id_and_od/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:20:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quality]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/06/id_and_od/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This is a continuation of To pin or not to pin so you should read that first if you haven&#8217;t already. I.D. and O.D. refers to Inner Diameter and Outer Diameter. This is a common concept in every field of engineering of which sewing is one. However, it&#8217;s only in sewing that people assume that [...]]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/id_and_od/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>To pin or not to pin</title>
		<link>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/to_pin_or_not_to_pin/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/to_pin_or_not_to_pin/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jun 2008 18:45:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kathleen Fasanella</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Operations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Process Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fashion-incubator.com/2008/06/to_pin_or_not_to_pin/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Can you count the number of times you&#8217;ve sewn -for example- a collar to a neckline and had the experience that the one side will set just fine but the other side is either too large or too small? Or what of joining one front side seam to a back side seam and ending up [...]]]></description>
		<wfw:commentRss>http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/to_pin_or_not_to_pin/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>27</slash:comments>
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