Fashion Incubator » Product Reviews http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Thu, 16 May 2013 00:39:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=153 Vintage book: The Clothing Trades Industry http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage-book-the-clothing-trades-industry/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage-book-the-clothing-trades-industry/#comments Thu, 16 Feb 2012 23:46:12 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=10884 poole_sewing_machine_smIn fits and starts I'm reading The clothing trades industry by B.W. Poole, published circa 1920. I'd seen the title bandied about here and there but hadn't been motivated to pick it up until recently. As far as I can tell, it's the first readily accessible and widely published book about apparel manufacturing. I can't speak for you but being that this industry is so mature and in that it changes so little -it doesn't you know, we're pretty much doing things as we have for 100 years, only the styles change- I thought that a survey of practices in manufacturing would be illustrative of the core practices that anyone should follow even today. So I settled in to read what I anticipated to be a rather dry recitation of processes and procedures with only a stray illustration of an archaic sewing machine to punch up the material. What I did not, could not have anticipated was the author's wry and witty sense of humor. With respect to his description of commercial tailors he says:
In such trades, and their number is legion, the owner is not a practical man, and it is a singular fact and true, that the less he knows about the trade, the quicker he gets rich. He is a man probably with some capital who bought a going concern, and retained the practical staff until he got the hang of things.
Lest you think he's deprecating of what amounts to today's average manufacturer, he continues:]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage-book-the-clothing-trades-industry/feed/ 4 Product review: Soma sparkle pajamas http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/product-review-soma-sparkle-pajamas/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/product-review-soma-sparkle-pajamas/#comments Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:59:21 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=8246 sparkle_jammiesBoy, it's tough easing back into work life amid holiday upheaval, no? I thought to do it with a good old fashioned product review. This item was a gift from my SIL, a pajama set from Soma Intimates (from the same folks as Chicos & WHBM) and since I'm mostly pleased with the construction and patterning of it and you all have said it is instructional to know product strengths, I thought to detail some of that here. Unfortunately as per my usual, I have to open with irrelevant comments of things that annoy me (there are two points) or I can't even get to the review part of it. The first annoying thing is the product line name, namely "Soma". Now, it's good I got these as a gift because I never ever would have walked into a store called Soma considering its literary association. You know, Brave New World and all that. I mean, it would be horridly creepy if they also sold bracelets there, know what I mean? I'm sure you're shuddering just like I am (I'm reliving the experience). Or passing the soma if you've got the good stuff. But yeah, I get it. Soma is close enough to somnolent or somnolence to suggest sleepwear but then -get this- they had other stuff in that Soma store (we went the day after to get a gift for someone else) that leads me to believe that sleeping per se was not wholly what shoppers are intended to have in mind. Maybe Soma is closer to VS for older ladies who've given up on being racy. You know, ladies like me. The second thing that annoys me is they had to name every style. Do not do that. Soma, Chicos and big name brands can do that but please don't start. It is very annoying. Style numbers are best especially if you're a little guy. I feel like an idiot having to ask for "cool nights digi bloom", "make the cut crop" or "cool nights mod dot reese" (seriously, I didn't make this up. Numbers are really nice, they're short and sweet.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/product-review-soma-sparkle-pajamas/feed/ 7 Refine My Line: Rockabilly Cowgirl pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/refine-my-line-rockabilly-cowgirl-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/refine-my-line-rockabilly-cowgirl-pt-2/#comments Tue, 14 Sep 2010 21:46:40 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=7653 gaping_bucklingI consider a product review to be successful if improvements can be implemented without increasing costs and of course, without changing any styling details. In real life, very rarely should one make suggestions that will result in a net cost increase. I mean, we all have suggestions that will increase costs but we don't say anything unless or until we're encouraged to speak more freely. RC's design is going to be very challenging in this regard. Our only saving grace is that the designer has already said she's thinking of lining it. If you don't know what I'm talking about, see the first entry. Below are an aggregate of comments including RC's in response to our feedback. Most of this took place in the forum so you may not have seen it. Comments are sorted according to fit, pattern design and construction. Construction was most of it. Fit: (see first photo above) Several mentioned that the neckline stood away from the neck a bit. The yokes are buckling between between the shoulder and fullest part of the bust. Taking out 3/8" or so in bodice length would bring it down to nest closer around the neck and lay more smoothly.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/refine-my-line-rockabilly-cowgirl-pt-2/feed/ 12 If your sales aren’t as good as your product http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/if-your-sales-arent-as-good-as-your-product/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/if-your-sales-arent-as-good-as-your-product/#comments Tue, 07 Sep 2010 21:06:11 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=7553 notices mentions the item could be perfectly professional with the addition of a bit of fusible, top stitching or a spot of strategic pressing. Worse, the party involved is usually frustrated they're not making headway and think they need a sure-fire sales strategy or sales reps to bring it in but in most cases, that's cart before the horse. So that's what I want to do in this new series. I want volunteers to submit their projects for review. It will be kind, not the sort of meanness or cattiness you see on Project Runway, no critiquing someone's taste or style. You can remain anonymous. I would say that preference will be given to parties willing to remake the item with the suggested corrections but nobody has taken me up on the offer when I've made it before so it's silly that I throw in the caveat but I will anyway. I need volunteers. Email me photos of product shots if you're interested. I'm especially interested in people who think their products are great or nearly perfect already. Most of the people I'm thinking of have a lot of experience or education, maybe that's why they don't ask? Alternatively, if I don't get any volunteers, I would like some advice as to what I should say to people who are seeking sales advice when their products are not ready for the marketplace.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/if-your-sales-arent-as-good-as-your-product/feed/ 17 Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/metric-pattern-cutting-for-childrens-wear-and-babywear/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/metric-pattern-cutting-for-childrens-wear-and-babywear/#comments Mon, 12 Apr 2010 22:18:51 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=6488 Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear last month and meant to post my review sooner. Sorry 'bout that. If you have the third edition and have been happy with it, I don't see much need to get this fourth edition. The value of the much ballyhooed color coding designed to facilitate instruction was negligible. I assumed the color coding would be in the drafts (where it'd be useful) but it was used as the background for flats in the sidebars. Color wise, you get shades of green or grey, hope you're not colorblind and have trouble discerning green values. What I did find useful was the re-organization and prioritization of the material itself. This difference between editions is strikingly clear on the table of contents page and a vast improvement over what is now, a comparatively cluttered TOC of the third edition. New material New material in this text is a section on drafting for girls with developing figures, what we'd call tweens (girls ages 11-14). It is not a large section (13 pages) but covers the block development of fitting shells for bodices, dresses, skirts and trousers. For styling changes, one confers with other sections or other books entirely. The text has an increased focus on the needs of obese children, characterized by the thoughtful discussion we've come to expect from Aldrich -in addition to sizing charts. Don't skip the ten or so pages of dense text in the front matter and you'll see what I mean. Invariably, someone is going to ask me if this is going to solve their sizing problems fully but it likely will not. It can only help. There is no book on the market that addresses this issue.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/metric-pattern-cutting-for-childrens-wear-and-babywear/feed/ 19 A tool to calculate fabric use http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-tool-to-calculate-fabric-use/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-tool-to-calculate-fabric-use/#comments Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:42:11 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=6371 yardage conversion. Say, if you had the fabric yield for a garment for 45" wide fabric and wanted to know the yield for 60" goods. I didn't tell you about it. On purpose. I was holding out for something better and contacted the developer. That new and better application -called Fabric Calc- is ready to go. This utility will be invaluable whenever or however you're sourcing (but especially at fabric shows), costing across the board and even being able to give quotes on the fly. This will be useful for anyone who deals with fabric and product costs, from designers and pattern makers to marker makers and production sewing rooms. There are four parts to the Fabric Calc application:
  1. Yardage width conversion, fabric width options are 33"-66"
  2. Compare costs to determine which fabric is the better buy.
  3. Calculates the allocation needed for a quantity of production units which includes number of yards to buy and the total fabric cost for the lot.
  4. Metric conversion: converts yards to meters and vice versa.
Here are some details on how each feature works. yardage_width_conversionYardage width conversion This first module can be used to do a straight yardage width conversion. Use this when you have the allocation for a given fabric width and want to know what it would be in another width -very useful at trade shows. Let's say the allocation for a production run of your widget is 40 yards of 47" fabric and you want to know how much fabric to buy if you find fabric that is 54".
  • Move the scroll wheel on the left (A) to match the width of fabric (47") for which you know the allocation.
  • Move scroll wheel B to match the allocation, namely 40 yards for our example.
  • Move scroll wheel C to match the new fabric width you're considering buying (54").
The answer is shown in D. You would need only 34.8 yards of the wider fabric rather than 40. You can also click on the answer (D) to toggle between a decimal or a fractional number, which will round up to the nearest 1/8 yard.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-tool-to-calculate-fabric-use/feed/ 19 Tagless labels and latex allergies http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tagless-labels-and-latex-allergies/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tagless-labels-and-latex-allergies/#comments Tue, 26 Jan 2010 20:05:21 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5977 this word of warning. She describes a situation in which her niece had a bad reaction to those tagless labels. I don't know if she updated the entry but in a private email, she said: My sister sent me an update on the problem. It appears that the re-formulated paints may include latex tainted paint, similar to silk screen paint. My niece had another reaction even worse than previous because her entire back flared up red. The pediatrician suggested my niece now has a latex allergy and possible nickel allergy. Latex allergies can develop over time with multiple exposures. There's a photo of her niece's back on site. It's not a mere reddening of the skin or a rash but looks quite painful. Just something to consider if you use those iron on tags.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tagless-labels-and-latex-allergies/feed/ 18 The best technical software for small companies http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-best-technical-software-for-small-companies/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-best-technical-software-for-small-companies/#comments Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:32:31 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5548 stylefile_graphic [This is the perfect example of why tunes should not be playing when people land on your website. I'd lose at least half of you because my preference would be to play the Glenn Miller version of At Last. Yeah it was a bunch of white guys so it's not as popular or cool as the Etta James version but the clothes were better.] If you're having a hard time keeping on top of things like quality, vendors, product testing, keeping on schedule with patterns, sampling and production, have I got news for you! Yes, StyleFile, the best and lowest cost technical design package and project management software is back with a new version called StyleFile LE. Since I know budgets are tight, I'll give you the cost up front, it's $699. You can try it free (no registration hassle) for 30 days. I strongly suggest you use the wiki which will be invaluable in getting you started. Here's a tiny list of what it can do for you: -oh wait, new FTC regulations governing endorsements say I must disclose the nature of my relationship with the vendor. The vendor is Patternworks Inc, a boutique pattern services provider in Los Angeles. In my opinion, they are the standard by which pattern services should be measured. Which is no small thing to say considering they are technically my "competitors" although I prefer the term "colleagues". I enjoy warm collegial relations with the owners -as well as one can considering distance and all. I have not been paid for any entries I've written about any of their products or services. I have not received a free software package of LE either. I was employed by the firm to test the first PLM/PDM product and to write documentation (I am a technical writer) for which I was not paid but I did receive the software in trade. Lastly, I will not be paid a commission if you buy any of their products or services. Disclosure dispensed with, this is but a tiny portion of what StyleFile LE will do for you:
  • Tracking the work process, soup to nuts.
  • Line sheet creation
  • Bill of Material (BOM)
  • Complete costing
  • Full technical specification packages
  • Writing sewing instructions (to which you can attach illustrations)
  • Grading and sizes management (grading charts and reports)
]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/the-best-technical-software-for-small-companies/feed/ 5 Vintage technical illustration book http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage-technical-illustration-book/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage-technical-illustration-book/#comments Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:13:22 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5463 vintage_sketching_back I was lucky enough to find The Practical Sketcher: a complete and practical method of sketching, for women's, misses', junior's, children's and infant's garments online -and it's a free download! Published in 1915 by Isidor Rosenfeld, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the very first book ever published on technical illustration for apparel. Using a grid format, it shows proportions of style elements based on human dimensions broken down into 8ths by height (the human figure is close enough to 8 lengths as to not quibble too much about it). While the styles are unarguably dated, I can't help but think this would be very useful for designers who need to convey style details to pattern makers. For example (upper right), here is this illustration of a back shirtwaist. If you don't like the flat look, the book also explains how to draw from the 3/4 view. An example of that is shown (lower right) with this view of a shirtwaist front.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/vintage-technical-illustration-book/feed/ 7 Schmatta: Rags To Riches To Rags pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/#comments Tue, 20 Oct 2009 21:39:29 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=5126 yesterday's entry in time to call the cable company and get us hooked up to HBO; an unanticipated present. I think he's the greatest. So you have him to thank -or not- for all this spittle. As favorable as it was for us -if a pity party could be deemed favorable- there's more to the story. They had to keep the film simple; it couldn't be a full blown analysis of all that ails us. That's my job. Heh. I can understand how people could be depressed by it but reading between the lines, I firmly believe there's a lot of unrealized opportunity and potential. I really believe that. Here's my take on it. Have I ever mentioned that I majored in economics? Apparel was my first jaunt at college, a two year program I never finished. Specifically, I majored in developmental aka "third world" economics (the latter term is offensive by the way). It's the study of developing industry when you have nothing. No money, no infrastructure, no education, little equipment and so on. In short, perfect conditions for an apparel industry. In fact, the first organized industry a nation develops are the needle trades. It's one of the barometers of economic indices. Everything you saw in this film should be filtered through this lens. In other words, the history of US industrialization starts with the apparel industry. Workplace safety and unions were birthed in the apparel industry, not because the trade was any worse than other tangential manufacturing being developed at the time but because it was first and because it was the biggest. The bigger you are, the harder it is to hide. There was plenty of horrendous stuff going on in other industries. ]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/schmatta-rags-to-riches-to-rags-pt-2/feed/ 22