Fashion Incubator » Production http://www.fashion-incubator.com How to start a clothing line or run the one you have, better. Thu, 16 May 2013 00:39:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=215 Resolutions: Will this be the year you get a CAD system? http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/resolutions-will-this-be-the-year-you-get-a-cad-system/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/resolutions-will-this-be-the-year-you-get-a-cad-system/#comments Wed, 02 Jan 2013 19:35:22 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12376 someone is wrong on the internet!" for a free pass. But I digress somewhat. My point is that technology (and a CAD system) can be great but it won't necessarily make you more efficient. Successful technology adoption often hinges on our existing habits and work processes. Meaning that if your processes are messed up, technology won't help you be any less messed up.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/resolutions-will-this-be-the-year-you-get-a-cad-system/feed/ 7 Fusing Map: Unlined Jacket http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/fusing-map-unlined-jacket/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/fusing-map-unlined-jacket/#comments Sat, 29 Dec 2012 00:12:48 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12354 Fusing map: Sport coats and suits) Ela writes:
I’m about to dive into my first menswear garment sewing project: making a jacket for my boyfriend. From what I understood, Kathleen, your fusible map is for lined jackets. So my question is… How would a fusible map look on an unlined jacket? I suppose even an unlined jacket (mine will be the casual, informal, destructured kind) must be interfaced in some areas… I’m just really wondering WHERE. Thanks so much in advance. P.S. The fabric will be wool,, heavier than normal suiting but lighter than the “blanket-y” one.
You don't mention whether the jacket takes a zipper or buttons but it doesn't really matter because the closure area needs reinforcement because it takes a lot of wear. Below I've shown a fusing map for an unlined casual jacket with welt pockets. If you don't want the fusing showing for the pocket, substitute a layer of self/shell fabric instead. The welt itself can be fused because it won't show once it's made up. You can click on the illustration (or here) for a larger version of the image.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/fusing-map-unlined-jacket/feed/ 7 Fusing map: Sport coats and suits http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/fusing-map-sport-coats-and-suits/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/fusing-map-sport-coats-and-suits/#comments Sat, 08 Dec 2012 01:40:15 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12274 Based on an antecedent post, it seems people are excited about this one. I can only hope it lives up to expectations. But first, this is a side jaunt to a series of posts I wrote about sample costs (pt.1, pt.2 & pt.3). By way of explaining the higher costs of cutting samples as compared to the design room or home workshop, I've made what I'm calling "fusing maps" for lack of a better description. It is the only way I can show you how much extra stuff we cut. I know fusible usage looks like more than you're used to so you wonder if you really need it. All I can say is that manufacturers are keen to shave costs wherever possible so if it were possible to eliminate it, they'd do it. Without further ado, below are shown fusible placements on the typical sportcoat or suit coat. It also goes for coats too. For this to make sense, make note of the at top right. Shell or the self piece is grey. The fusible is pink. Other than that, this is self explanatory.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/fusing-map-sport-coats-and-suits/feed/ 27 Sample cutting and sewing costs pt.3 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs-pt-3/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs-pt-3/#comments Sat, 08 Dec 2012 01:17:00 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12263 part one and then part two, Switching gears, I intended to explain two other reasons why sample cutting can cost more than one would hope.
  1. We cut more pieces than one would in many sample or design rooms, and
  2. it depends on the provider's infrastructure.
A. RTW products have more guts. One easy example is fusibles and or sew in canvas. In the average design studio (or even home sewing), these aren't used to the same extent. For example, it is rare for one to cut fusibles for a zipper inset area but this is done routinely in better RTW. We also fuse hems, fold lines and make chest pads, stays and what have you. To give you a better example of what I mean, I created what I'm calling a Fuse Map for a sportcoat which should be self explanatory.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs-pt-3/feed/ 5 Sample cutting and sewing costs pt.2 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs-pt-2/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs-pt-2/#comments Thu, 06 Dec 2012 22:55:40 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12254 yesterday's entry, I made several markers (see What is a marker? if you have no idea what they are) to compare efficiency for double and single folded lays. For both lays I used the same fabric width of 58". The single ply area was of course, 58", while the double ply layout was based on a 29" width. The double folded lay came out like so: ]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs-pt-2/feed/ 13 Sample cutting and sewing costs http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs/#comments Thu, 06 Dec 2012 01:52:56 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=12248 I recently started using a professional pattern and sample service and the cost seems a little high to me. Was I out of line to request an itemize list of expenses? For one of my jackets (I had 3), the cutting was listed at 4 hours. That seems like a lot to me. The sewing was another 3 hours. Does that sound right? They are charging me $35 an hour so my sample cost is about $250. The reason I'm asking is because it didn't take me this long to cut out this jacket when I made the practice garment. For clarification, I asked Ann for more details about her jacket. It is a fully lined, knee length, double breasted pea coat. If the job was done well, $245 seems like a fair price. Here is how costs break down: Typically, a lined coat pattern can take 8 hours to draft (the drafting costs weren't mentioned). It is typical for cutting to take half that time and then sewing, if you have someone very experienced at it, can take two to three or maybe even 4 hours depending on the level of finishing (hand stitching, pressing) required.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sample-cutting-and-sewing-costs/feed/ 11 How a contractor picks jobs http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-a-contractor-picks-jobs/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-a-contractor-picks-jobs/#comments Tue, 02 Oct 2012 23:58:51 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=11869
  • The requirements of your job are fairly typical or routine and we do it all of the time. We'll take the job if our schedule meshes with your deadlines and you seem to have costs and the means to pay for it figured out.
  • The job and time frame isn't well defined; it seems like a fishing expedition with no set criteria. One could conclude you're using the bid process to educate yourself or you're hoping to use our bid to leverage against another provider's offer.
  • Your job straddles the line of what we usually do and work that takes us in a direction we'd like to be moving but aren't sure we can handle it -or you. More thought is needed to assess our risks and involvement.
    • *Obviously a description is necessary. If you write someone to say "I’m in need of a prototype for a apparel line I’m setting up. Can you assist with this?" you're automatically stuck into the second category and you probably won't get a response. Here is a reminder on what to say.]]>     http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how-a-contractor-picks-jobs/feed/ 4     Why production doesn’t look like the sample http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-production-doesnt-look-like-the-sample/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-production-doesnt-look-like-the-sample/#comments Sat, 04 Aug 2012 01:03:39 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://fashion-incubator.com/?p=11652 if the sleeve pattern has ease- which is why I have the project*.] Now, a high dollar sample house will sew up a lovely sample for you, cutting match points divined on the fly -but that's not the result you'll get in production. A less than optimal result is not because production is comprised of sloppy and uncaring cutters and stitchers but because]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-production-doesnt-look-like-the-sample/feed/ 3 3 reasons you should pay for samples http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/3-reasons-you-should-pay-for-samples/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/3-reasons-you-should-pay-for-samples/#comments Tue, 12 Jun 2012 23:14:40 +0000 Kathleen Fasanella http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=11408 a LinkedIn discussion on this subject, I thought it would be good to talk about it here. The question was (paraphrased and edited slightly):
    If a contractor approaches you with a production proposal, is it okay that the contractor charges for the initial sample? How about if they say that if you place an order, they will refund the cost? Shouldn't this be a cost of doing business? What are your thoughts?
    With over 100 comments (although some are spam, typical of LI), this has been controversial to say the least. I think the better question is: if you approach a contractor with the idea of doing business with them, should you pay for the initial sample? The reason I think my question is better is because it is basically the same thing. The issue of who made the approach is immaterial once you sift through the pros and cons. Even though there are tiny operations out there that only exist to generate revenue making crappy samples, I think you should pay. Not that you should pay the former, that's what due diligence -and escrow- is about. You should pay for these reasons:]]>     http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/3-reasons-you-should-pay-for-samples/feed/ 7     Solving sewing problems by testing your machines http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/solving-sewing-problems-by-testing-your-machines/ http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/solving-sewing-problems-by-testing-your-machines/#comments Thu, 17 May 2012 16:42:27 +0000 http://www.fashion-incubator.com/?p=11273 explained before, the way you troubleshoot in an organized way is according to the 4 M's -Man, Method, Machine and Materials. The first thing I analyzed was Man. The operator was pleasant and motivated with appropriate skills for the task (she had several industrial machines at home). She was -frankly, this is a rarity- very happy the company had hired someone to give her pointers.]]> http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/solving-sewing-problems-by-testing-your-machines/feed/ 22