Fashion-Incubator

I'd like to hear more about this WalMart bobbin winder...

Kathleen, I paid under $100 for the bobbin winder. As you already mentioned, ready-made winders are ridiculously expensive so this was a great bargain! I'm sure many of your readers would be able to make their own. All they need is a microswitch, domestic sewing machine motor, an industrial bobbin winder, a belt and some wiring - probably about $70 worth of parts.

Me too, I would love to hear about the bobbin winder from WalMart....

I just wish I could go back in time and read this before I purchased a new Janome CP1000 (I think that is the name)last month. My biggest hesitation was the resale value, since I know no one who uses a coverstitch machine and I figured the demand would be very small should I (or my heirs!) decide to sell it. As a home sewer, I just like gadgets and this is a very large gadget indeed! Ah well, I still have the "clip to the seam" advice.

For our operations, the coverstitch is one of our most critical machines. We invested more in those machines than any others.

We use a Juku/Union Special CS132 cylinder bed coverstitch for most operations. Its a workhorse with automatic presser foot lift and thread trimming. I once asked Amy if we could have gotten away with all the air-powered doodads on the machine and she just rolled her eyes. Something like "you try sewing this stuff without the trimmers."

We aso have a Yamato VF2500 flat bed. Yamato is a good brand and its a good machine, but its a little past its prime. It occasionally has stitch skipping issues and we use it mostly for attaching stripes and other trim elements. Because it has no thread trimmers, our sewers will use the Juki/US even when something might be better suited to a flat bed than cylinder.

When we started, we used a Husqvarna hobbyist coverstitch machine. I do not recommend hobbyist machines for anything other than hobby sewing. They are plastic, lightweight, slow and can have trouble penetrating multiple fabric layers. They are not designed for putting in the type of hours that you'll need them in an industrial setting (and doing so often voids the warranty).

I have recently bought an Elna 744 combined serger and coverstitch machine. Mostly I have used the coverstitch for sweatshirt fabrics (Which I had to press to give a smooth hem which didn't stretch as I sewed it) and medium to heavy synthetic jersey (which I didn't press first) and I found it to be satisfactory. My needs are semi-industrial (I make up samples for a designer and run my own dressmaking business on a fairly small scale) but space is at a premium, so the combined machine suits me. Changing the machine from serger to coverstitch or chainstitch (which I now use instead of tacking - a great timesaver as the chain stitch takes no time at all to unpick, just find the correct thread and it unravels) a bit of a fiddle as the bottom looper has to be re-threaded and the needle positioning can be different. You also have to make sure that the stitch width guide and the cutting blade are out of the way. I just save the work until I can do it in one go wherever possible and while I am fiddling around changing the settings I take the extra time to have a good clean-out and oil.
Hope this helps
Probably not ideal for a larger industrial requirement

I just purchased the Baby Lock Evolve. It is a cover stitch/overlock combo. The thing about this machine is it threads itself which is a big time saver if you only have room for one machine. Stitch quality is excellent, and it sews beautifully on any fabric. I tested it on 3 layers of jean fabric as soon as I brought it home, then switched to silk crepe.

I've been looking for a stand-alone coverstitch machine. I had the Viking 936 for five years and, while it did okay, I don't like machines that try to be two different things. You're either a serger or a coverstitch machine; trying to be both means you don't do either as well (just my opinion).

Now I'm looking into the industrial market and getting more confused by the minute!! I spoke with a dealer I trust (he sold me my industrial Juki straight stitch) and he said while the Kansai would work, they are the "bottom of the list" manufacturer, not known for their quality. Instead, he recommended a Pegasus W562. It would be nearly double (around $1K vs. $600) but I would really hate to spend less if it meant getting less. And, of course, having to make room for another industrial table is problematic. Do I *really* need a coverstitch machine this badly? I'm starting to second- and third-guess myself.

Pegasus has an excellent reputation and Kansai, well, not so much.

Our experience with low-end machines is that we can get them to work, but they require a lot more fiddling and tend to require more hassle to keep them working optimally. We've never regretted spending money on the better machines.

A sewing machine salesperson today told me (1) there are no machines that just do coverstitch - there are only sergers and sewing machines - and when I pointed out that I knew of at least four companies who make home coverstitch machines, she told me that (2) any sewing machine that can use twin needles can do a coverstitch.

I was under the impression that there are important technical differences between twin-needle stitching and coverstitch, but I haven't been able to track down a knowledgeable comparison online. My search did lead me to discover this blog (which I'm thrilled to find, also Gigi's and thanks for that link) so I wondered if you or any of your readers could tell me what the difference is?

I totally disagree with your dealer's assessment of Kansai, Welmoed. The Kansai model that I have would retail for about $2200 new. I did some research before I purchased and have been extremely happy with the machine - otherwise I would not have purchased a 2nd one. I'm not saying that this is the best machine on the market, but it was the best machine for me and the least temperamental of the various brands I looked at.

Jeanie, your sewing machine salesperson is wrong. As you already know, there are machines that only do a coverstitch - both domestic and industrial. Some domestic sergers also convert to coverstitch (which is a real pain, IMO). A twin-needle stitch is not a coverstitch, it is something else entirely. Most zigzag machines can use a twin-needle which means you will have two rows of topstitching on the right side of your garment (or three rows if you are using a triple needle). On the backside, you will have a zigzag stitch as the bobbin thread is caught by both (or all three) needles. A coverstitch looks like a serger stitch from the backside, that's the best way I can describe it. The needle threads are locked together with a looper thread from the backside. Some coverstitch machines also offer a top cover using a 2nd looper on top of the fabric. This means that both the top and bottom of the stitching will look like a serger stitch. The coverstitch is what you see in RTW - I've never seen a twin-needle stitch in RTW.

I've heard the same saw about Kansai from dealers and am sure that they are working from "old play books", industry songs. No one stays in the machine market long if they don't improve their machanics so I have taken this advice as dated. If Gigi has a problem with her machine she definitely would have reported. She has a machine reseller on whom she has relied for many years and whom she can trust completely. I have used the Janome CP1000 in commercial sewing this summer, with great results, actually. My volume has been too small to justify buying industrials and allocating the space they need so I've used the portable home machines I already had. Prior to the Janome I used the twin needle home sewing technique and have actually produced all my output with this method. The Janome, as I said, was a great improvement. Now I am looking for an industrial due to higher demand but the reason for replacing the Janome is that I need a way to "tie off" or lock the stitches without hand tying. No industrials can do this without an extra gadget. I have located a used industrial sewing machine reseller who has invented such a devise but have yet to close the deal. I can hardly wait to install this new time saver! It will require a compressed air line but that's not a problem within the factory setting. I love machines and tools! Each one has a different set of rules and capacities. The Janome can't be beat for versatility in facing the demands of home sewing while industrials are very job specific. Good luck, all.

A sewing machine salesperson today told me (1) there are no machines that just do coverstitch - there are only sergers and sewing machines - and when I pointed out that I knew of at least four companies who make home coverstitch machines, she told me that (2) any sewing machine that can use twin needles can do a coverstitch.

This is incorrect. Its so incorrect that its hard to know where to begin. The number of needles a machine has only tells you how many needles the machine uses. If someone tells me they have a 2 needle machine, I still don't know whether its lockstitch, chainstitch, overlock, coverstitch or who-knows-what-else. Stitches are classified by a set of standards (e.g. a class 600 stitch is always a type of coverstitch) and different stitch types are used for different purposes.

Especially in the hobbyist market, its not uncommon for a single machine to offer multiple classes of stitch type (e.g. Lockstitch and Zigzap or Overlock and Coverstitch), but that's less common in industrials (though many coverstitch offer options on multiple subclasses within 600).

I was under the impression that there are important technical differences between twin-needle stitching and coverstitch, but I haven't been able to track down a knowledgeable comparison online. My search did lead me to discover this blog (which I'm thrilled to find, also Gigi's and thanks for that link) so I wondered if you or any of your readers could tell me what the difference is?

There is a great stitch reference chart somewhere on the web, but I've lost the link. The best I could find quickly was a PDF file showing the major classes and a brief description of them. http://my.dreamwiz.com/su0210/ADM4307/ADM4307_7.pdf

The Janome, as I said, was a great improvement. Now I am looking for an industrial due to higher demand but the reason for replacing the Janome is that I need a way to "tie off" or lock the stitches without hand tying.

Wow, yeah, you definitely don't want to be hand-tying stitches in a production environment as there aren't enough hours in the day for that much labor.

With hems, the standard is to sew a bit over the start of the hem and then trim the threads. Check out some RTW knits that have coverstitched hems. You'll find most/all of them do it this way. (Have I mentioned the value of automatic thread trimmers? If your machine gets used a lot, these things are gold.)

If the coverstitch isn't circular, its a good idea to try and construct the garment in such a way that another stitch will cross over the ends of the coverstitch (e.g. A hemmed shirt might have side vents.).

Your used sewing machine guy shouldn't have had to invent something though to solve the problem, as the solution already exists - its called a stitch condenser and is available as on option on various machines. (When and if we buy an additional coverstitch, this is an option we'll be picking up.)

There is a great stitch reference chart somewhere on the web, but I've lost the link.

Mike, I have the complete file sets of all the seam classes and specifications on my other website. There are nine pdf files illustrating seam classes or you can download one zip file with all of them.

Thanks for your info, Mike C! It is, in fact, a stitch condenser. I am buying a used machine and this will have to be retro-fitted. I don't make garments and need to secure stitches after only a 10" stitch and there is no hem to bind off the end of the stitching, either. Further, it must stand up to use in a preschool for years. Any help at all is *major* help, as you can imagine!

My dealer recommends the Kansai, and he has no affiliation with Gigi's dealer. This is the same dealer that sold me my Juki DDL8700, and he has been just fantastic. The machine that I want is about $1200 used, so I am saving up my pennies, and drooling while I read Gigi's most excellent tutorials. Thank you for sharing your expertise, Gigi!

My dealer recommends the Kansai, and he has no affiliation with Gigi's dealer. This is the same dealer that sold me my Juki DDL8700, and he has been just fantastic. The machine that I want is about $1200 used, so I am saving up my pennies, and drooling while I read Gigi's most excellent tutorials. Thank you for sharing your expertise, Gigi!

The Kansai probably is fine if you aren't going to be using it in a factory environment. Or, if in a factory, its use will be relatively light. Kansai is a lower tier brand. Its not an old playbook, its just where Kansai fits in the overall market. Doesn't mean there is anything wrong with it, but if I were looking to buy a machine for a high volume environment, I wouldn't look at Kansai.

Same reason I wouldn't buy a, say, Artisan or Yamata serger over a Juki. Nothing wrong with those other brands and they do work, but when my production depends on my equipment, I'm going to by the best I can afford.

Most of the sample rooms I have worked in that require a coverstitch machine use the Kansai. It gives a professional finish, while being economical. I have had to beg for a coverstitch to be added to the equipment and Kansai is what we end up with, if they are not sending us a junker from the factory floor. I prefer to have the option of a top cover, might as well have the ability to do that stitch too. You never know, in a sample room, what you might end up needing.

Can anyone recommend a coverstitch machine which has an adjustable width? I found all the Kansai Specials only adjust from about 5.5mm to 6mm. Looking for an industrial machine that goes from 3mm to 6mm (or about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch). Any suggestions or are widths like these only found on two different machines when talking about industrials?

Thanks,
Alex

Alex, you need to look at a 3 needle coverstitch. That would give you both a narrow and wide coverstitch. On a machine with a 1/4" gauge (the max distance between the needles) you would be able to stitch both the 1/4" and the 1/8" widths.

Thanks Gigi! We figured this out just after I posted. Bought the Kansai Special and taking delivery today.

Great! I hope you will be as happy with it as I've been.

I've recently started and alterations business and need to go with an industrial machine. I mainly do hems (men and women), jeans, replace zippers, recover cusions, alter seams. Any ideas what to recommend. I've been using 2 singer mechanicals, a brother qulter's lightweight machine and a brother lok serger.

Specbrands (www.specbrands.com) is offering a 3-piece package geared toward alterations shops and dry cleaners. The set includes a single-needle lockstitch, a 4-thread (mock safety) overlock, and a blindstitch machine. I can't remember the package price; but, the brand is Yamata. They don't advertise this set on their site, so you'll need to call them to inquire.

If you're looking to replace one piece at a time, I suggest the Singer 20U series. It's a zig zag model; but, handles light & medium weight fabrics. This model is very popular in costume and alterations shops w/ a max speed of 3500 stitches per minute.

Hi, I'm looking at buying a used industrial coverstitch machine that is for sale at the moment. It is a 3 needle. I wanted to know if it would be able to operate with only 2 needles. I really only want the two rows of topstitching on my garments.
Thanks
from Adrien

Pins, I agree with J.C. - I've owned a 20U for a number of years (it was my first industrial, actually) and it's a great all-around machine.

Adrien, you can use only two needles on a 3-needle coverstitch.

Can anyone help me with a yamata coverstitch machine? What's the trick to getting the thing to sew? What kind of thread do I need to use in it?

I am looking to buy a coverstitch machine and need some advice. I have a ridiculously small business right now (I am a stay at home mom to a 3 month old) but I have goals of growing my business to a small scale clothing company with my own production room eventually. I own an industrial Juki 5 thread serger which is the best machine I've ever owned. At this point I don't have room for another industrial machine, plus I would really like 4 thread capabilities as I've just gotten into knits. It sounds like the Elna 745 would be good for me, and I've read a lot of good reviews on it. So my question is this, does anyone know anything about the Juki mo735? I believe it is meant for home use, its 5 thread with all the coverstitches. I can't find a review on it anywhere! I am torn between buying a stand alone coverstitch because I would also really like 4 thread capabilities. thanks!

I just started working on a Kansai W8100 series machine. So far so good, but as an experienced techinical knit designer I'm a fair newbie on this machine,(Usually work with factories) can anyone give me advise as to getting in and out from under the presser foot when sewing on the round? Sounds elementary I know, but I can use all the advice I can get.

I have a very cranky Brother industrial cover stitch machine. I mostly sew dance wear and costumes. When i first got the used machine it sewed beautifully, but after some time and sewing over multiple layers of elastic, it started to skip stitches. I also like to make swim wear but when I use rubber elastic, the machine skips stitches even more. I've tried new needles and was even told to use Teflon coated needles to help with the problem. It made it worse. I'm not sure if I just need a better machine to handle my work load or would a narrower needles help? I also can not figure how to use the binder attachment that the deal sold me. I'm new to this site but can you help me or give me a link to someone who can? Thank you.

First, can you give us the model number? There are different opinions on what "industrial" means.

For instance, this and this this may both be described by users as industrial. However, the first one is not.

If your machine used to sew well but no longer does, then it sounds like it needs servicing.

Ours skip on occasion and usually its some sort of timing issue that needs to be corrected.

What threads do you use in your blind stitch machine? Brand, weight, etc.

I know the difference between industrial and domestic cover stitch machines. I own both, a domestic Baby lock which is also a thorn in my side, and the industrial Brother- model# FD4-B277. The Baby Lock is great if you use one layer of lycra folded over but if you add elastic it doesn't like all the layers. I figured out how to use my binder attachment thanks to Debbie's Cover stitch FAQ's online with fabric but not with elastic and fabric to make straps. I put new needles in the Brother- worked great for a day and now is acting up again. I feel I need to look more into the Juki industrial cover stitch machine. Can anyone help?