Posted by Kathleen Fasanella on Oct 9, 2006 at 1:39 pm / Patterns / Trackback
Last June, I wrote an entry about the clothing worn by George Mallory on his fated attempt to reach the summit of Mount Everest. From studies done in the UK, it was found that his apparel was 20%-40% lighter in weight than modern day gear but was warmer and more comfortable. Of particular interest to researchers was a so called “pivot sleeve” built into the Burberry jacket Mallory wore. Apparently, the pivot sleeve was an ergonomic feature that permitted full range of motion. Unfortunately, researchers can’t actually find an actual sample of this sleeve (which is one of the reasons I posted about it).
Thanks to JC Sprowls, we have an update. JC found a draft of the pivot sleeve in The Tailor and Cutter, Ltd (undated but estimated to be between 1952-1958). Below is a sketch of the finished sleeve. JC was generous to scan the draft (including the entire jacket) which you can download (pdf).
I haven’t put the thing together in my head yet but there’s something interesting going on with the back side of that under sleeve. It’ll be interesting to see how this sews up. You all try it too. Play, have fun.
I see today the Modern, Outfitter and Clothier on Ebay for $300.00 I swear Kathleen has driven up the price of used books. I kinda wish kathleen had a swap market for our used books.We all have books that some one could use.
laurra
J C Sprowls
October 9th, 2006
6:16 pm
Yeah, I saw that too, Laurra.
Maybe it’s time to nudge good ol’ RL Shep and ask if they have intentions of republishing this particular title.
J C Sprowls
October 9th, 2006
6:39 pm
I don’t mean to brag (okay, I do, a little…). But, my first copy of The Modern Tailor, Outfitter & Clothier was obtained in a box of books at an estate sale for about $5. It has been my primary source for self-directed study since about 8th grade.
I recently won a bid (on eBay) for a pristine copy of this same set. It cost a little more than this buyer is selling for. So, if this is something that interests you, I suggest you snag it as soon as possible.
The information on the pivot sleeve comes from a book entitled “Designing and Cutting Modern Leisure and Cotton Garments for Men”, another Tailor & Cutter publication. I don’t recall if I supplied Kathleen with the proper title for citation, so I’ll add it here, to comments.
sandra
October 13th, 2006
7:36 am
The angles on the sleeve had me a little confused until I saw the shape of the jacket armhole. This is working as a gusset - the usual scoop under the arm has been reflected upwards, so instead of a negative space it’s a positive area. The excess fabric would sit up into the armpit when the arm is down. Freedom of movement for the arms is all about maximising the length of fabric from wrist to waist via the armpit.
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6 Responses to “Pattern puzzle: pivot sleeve”
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October 9th, 2006
4:22 pm
Thanks JC for sharing!So kool
I see today the Modern, Outfitter and Clothier on Ebay for $300.00 I swear Kathleen has driven up the price of used books. I kinda wish kathleen had a swap market for our used books.We all have books that some one could use.
laurra
October 9th, 2006
6:16 pm
Yeah, I saw that too, Laurra.
Maybe it’s time to nudge good ol’ RL Shep and ask if they have intentions of republishing this particular title.
October 9th, 2006
6:39 pm
I don’t mean to brag (okay, I do, a little…). But, my first copy of The Modern Tailor, Outfitter & Clothier was obtained in a box of books at an estate sale for about $5. It has been my primary source for self-directed study since about 8th grade.
I recently won a bid (on eBay) for a pristine copy of this same set. It cost a little more than this buyer is selling for. So, if this is something that interests you, I suggest you snag it as soon as possible.
The information on the pivot sleeve comes from a book entitled “Designing and Cutting Modern Leisure and Cotton Garments for Men”, another Tailor & Cutter publication. I don’t recall if I supplied Kathleen with the proper title for citation, so I’ll add it here, to comments.
October 13th, 2006
7:36 am
The angles on the sleeve had me a little confused until I saw the shape of the jacket armhole. This is working as a gusset - the usual scoop under the arm has been reflected upwards, so instead of a negative space it’s a positive area. The excess fabric would sit up into the armpit when the arm is down. Freedom of movement for the arms is all about maximising the length of fabric from wrist to waist via the armpit.
October 30th, 2006
2:57 pm
Anyone draft and sew the pivot sleeve yet?
October 30th, 2006
4:50 pm
Yup